how to check out a vehicle for purchasing

[worb4me]

I need to help someone be able to check out a car on their own, who knows NOTHING about cars.

 

Here's what I do -

 

For a basic runner, well, it has to run. Start it, see how it sounds. Pretty mandatory to run it for 15-20 minutes, if you can't drive it for whatever reason, to see if it overheats. Look for smoking, leaks obviously.

 

Check oil (before and after starting it). Look for custard, would indicate a gasket leak of some kind, indicating oil is mixing w/coolant.

 

Check coolant, see if water was used, especially in winter. See if any signs of oil mixing in w/oil.

 

Check trans fluid. If it's too chocalatey, too murky, you might want to walk. Brown isn't necessarily a horrid thing, as long as it's clear. I guess.

 

Look the car over, look for obvious problems. My feeling is you're basically ahead of the game if you invest in an apparent good engine and transmission. Tires can and often do get replaced, as well as exhaust, suspension components.

 

What's on your list? Agree or disagree w/mine?

[Schurkey]

Based on the restrictions stated--the person inspecting the car knows NOTHING about cars--it's crazy to do anything beyond what you've stated--in fact that's probably asking too much of some folks.  Contract with an independent shop for a complete pre-purchase examination.  The shop I worked at did this as a specialty.  We had a set fee; but I think it was essentially 1 1/2 hours labor.

 

• Visual inspection of fluids and filters, light-bulbs
• Connect scan tool (if applicable)  With modern vehicles, a clean bill-of-health from the scan tool eliminates the need for a lot of the following:
• Connect engine oscilloscope (if secondary ignition leads were accessible) Allowed cylinder-balance testing, verifying secondary ignition system (primary too, on the older vehicles) also inspect charging voltage, starter amperage draw.
• Depending on the 'scope test, we might throw an exhaust-gas probe in the tailpipe.  Didn't do this often.
• Lift vehicle for under-car inspection--suspension, steering, exhaust, under-car rust
• Remove wheels (one front, one rear) to check brake linings and rotor/drum condition
• Verify heater, defroster, and A/C operation as applicable.
• Other stuff depending on vehicle to be inspected
• Test-drive if vehicle inspection shows vehicle to be safe.  Some weren't.

 

This was a lot of years ago, and if we couldn't find $100 of legitamately-needed work for every year old the vehicle was...it was in exceptionally good condition.  Mind you, there were no five- or ten-year warranties from the manufacturers; and we simply didn't get any call to inspect vehicles that were less than five years old.  A thousand dollars of needed repairs on a ten year old vehicle was common--even conservative.

[worb4me]

I guess it depends where you live. 500$+/- cars are pretty common in NY/NJ. Some are *nearly* ready to roll, but rarely. Most have significant issues, head/lim gasket bad, blown tranny, no or salvage title. I bought a 92 Lumina in 09, 88k, needed a fender, headlight, and hood cylinders put back on (?). It was a dream. Put 104k, replaced 1 ball joint, ignition module, computer went towards the end, then starter would'nt work in cold weather. I junked it for 300$. It still would have lasted a year probably, but gaskets were very much on their way out. I'll do that job now, was too chicken then (early 2014). I was a member then also, different screen name.

 

Maybe I'm just spoiled. I found that car pretty quick, this 300$ wonder took 6 months. And I'm going to take it 11 miles away. Wish me luck.

 

Basic checks are what I was talking about. If you pay 3-1500$ for a car, I can't see paying 150$ for someone to look at it. Good eyes and ears are usually sufficient IMHO.

 

I will add that in the case of a peraon who is incapable of doing the work themselves, using a mechanic to check it may be a good idea.

[Padgett]

Basics are good but depends on what you want and where you are. For instance if I find any rust, I usually walk unless it is either something really unusual or something I really want (my first Reatta convertible had come from New Hampshire. I spent three days with it up in the air and with a wire brush, sandpaper, and a can of Rustolium. And it was just surface rust).

 

Spent a number of years in Indiana and Michigan. Life is too short to deal with rust.

[worb4me]

A little rust is meaningless to me. Nothing red Rustoleum primer can't handle. Do you follow up witj a gloss coat? A gallon can of smoke gray is on clearance over here for 15$. I'm tempted.

[Padgett]

"in the case of a peraon who is incapable of doing the work themselves"

 

In that case they should not be buying an old car unless they want to learn.

[Euro]

"in the case of a peraon who is incapable of doing the work themselves"

 

In that case they should not be buying an old car unless they want to learn.

That means that they probably cannot afford a newer car and/or car payment, possibly.

 

 

I am a nut when it comes to checking out a used car, I have family/friends who ask me all the time if I could go with them to check one out.  When I was looking to buy my last car (that ended up with my Regal), I spent probably 45 minutes to an hour looking at whatever car I went to see.  Sometimes it was less, because I found things right away that slammed the door on that deal. 

 

-fluid levels, colors, & smells

-any leaks, or any wetness

-rust, anywhere.  W-bodies taught me to check odd places like the trunk strut towers, front/rear bumper frames, etc.

-Do the tires match?  What do they look like?

-brake performance

-any odd noises while the car's on...whether in motion or stationary.  I try to drive next to a building with the windows down

-how are the wear of the interior components?  Do the seats have FAS (fat ass syndrome), what type of wear is on the brake pedal, gadget controls/buttons

-all electronic functions

-drive the car at multiple speeds, accelerate at different rates (without looking like a 16 year old kid test driving a Camaro)

-does the paint match every panel? 

-can you spot the correct VIN on things like the hood/fenders/trunk lid/etc?

-any overspray

-are the emblems/badging in the "correct" spots?

-is there any fading from repeated use? For example, driver's side window trim is faded black in 1 spot...from someone's arm resting on the open window in the same spot for X amount of time, or the steering wheel has 1 faded spot from a hand in that same spot, etc.

 

 

These aren't all "necessary," I'm just an OCD freak.

[Padgett]

Agree those are all good things to look for (also I look at pedal wear). But for me an important thing is how I feel about the car. Of course having never had a W-body (but liked George Ellis's 5 speed) I really did not know what to look for. Was a near thing but the GTP came home with me