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Cheap LED 9006 Bulbs


Michael Savage

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So 140-180 for both sets? If you need the relay? It's an extra 20. I'll save that for when I have some good money again. But still pricy option vs $35 lol

 

 

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You really should not ever put HIDs or LEDs in halogen housings.

 

Halogen housings are designed around the light patterns that the bulbs produce.  If you want superior light output, you need to move to custom projectors and HIDs.

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As far as the Projector Cage, this style LED lines up with the projectors pattern inside. So that's not am issue with these, but I did notice standard 9006 run 55W and these are 80W so they can be brighter, know of a "amp" to get the extra 25Ws to the bulb?

 

 

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 but I did notice standard 9006 run 55W and these are 80W so they can be brighter, know of a "amp" to get the extra 25Ws to the bulb?

 

 

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Watts is a figurative rating based on how much power the lamp consumes, since LEDS only consume a fraction of what a halogen incandescent bulb uses *80w* is really a misleading advertising ploy.

To find out how much power is actually being consumed you would need to connect a wattmeter across the circuit to see what these bulbs actually consume, but since they DO consume less the amperage draw will go down significantly.

The lumens rating is the focal point, what you're looking for is a brighter bulb than what the anemic 1000 lumens 9006 bulb produces.

 

What I do not like about LED's is the colour temp, a halogen is approx 3300 kelvin which is the proper temp for the human eye to see all that is lit at night, 6000 kelvin will produce a light temp that the eye will not see everything that is actually there in front of you. If LED's & HID's would have a lower than 4300 kelvin temp rating the eye could see more which is actually being lit. other than a cosmetic fad, today's vehicle manufacturers that equip their cars with a headlight that is above 4300 really aren't doing your eyes a favour.

 

What one can do to alter the LED colour temp is to slide an acrylic filter over the bulb to change the kelvin temp.

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Most LEDS have that fat amp on the bottom with the fan in it, and I'll stick a piece of wire in the connector when I get the chance and check out what you mentioned. also the average headlight rated at 5k Lumen is actually just a round up they are 4300k that's why they skip from 3k - 5k in the color charts on most sites 3k is yellow and 3.5-5k is white so they kinda middle man the color. Diamond Whites 6k but I agree any color temp above the "5k" ones ruins the lighting I've seen green pink purple red blue and everything they look shiny and cool but God the light spread looks awful. I'm less worried about the color I just need some lighting lol

 

 

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Found something cool we can use the new 2015 style 9011/9012(HIR1/HIR2) in our card by clipping off a piece of the twist in part for the lamps socket. Supposed to be twice the brightness for regular price, I'm gonna try to check that out too.

 

 

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Don't necessarily need an ammeter to figure out the wattage (which is power). If you know the resistance, which you can also measure with a multimeter (this is in ohms), then you can calculate the power. Power = (vltage x voltage)/resistance.

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Don't necessarily need an ammeter to figure out the wattage (which is power). If you know the resistance, which you can also measure with a multimeter (this is in ohms), then you can calculate the power. Power = (vltage x voltage)/resistance.

one uses a wattmeter to measure watts..... :biggrin: lol, power(W)=(V)voltage x(A)amps,  or (V)Voltage (squared) divided by ®resistance, or (W) power=(I) amps squared x ®resistance

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couldn't directly measure resistance from a diode anyways... forward voltage thresholds and non-linear response and all of the other fun diode characteristics.

 

9011/9012 are legit sources of more light and they don't have the issue of trying to make a cob-style LED array work with a reflector intended for a north-south incandescent filament. 

 

80 watts from LEDs in that small of an area would require massive heatsinking/heat piping, I highly doubt they're pulling half of that. I've built an array in an area of about 5 square inches(way larger than what a cob LED bulb has to work with) drawing something like 18 watts and that got a bit warm for my liking without additional cooling.

 

any kind of box attached to LEDs in this fashion wouldn't be an amplifier, it would be a constant current driver since the characteristics of LEDs change rapidly with temperature. what works happily for years at 70*F can be brought down to days at 100*F if it isn't accounted for.

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one uses a wattmeter to measure watts..... :biggrin: lol, power(W)=(V)voltage x(A)amps,  or (V)Voltage (squared) divided by ®resistance, or (W) power=(I) amps squared x ®resistance

Voltage squared is the same as (voltage x voltage). The point was that you can figure out the power consumption without knowing what the current is. Without using an ammeter to measure current, or a wattmeter to measure watts like you said. You can use the 2 variables you have, the 14v from the car battery, and the resistance of the bulb.  :think:

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............

To find out how much power is actually being consumed you would need to connect a wattmeter across the circuit to see what these bulbs actually consume, but since they DO consume less the amperage draw will go down significantly........

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Pretty sure it's not 80W LEDs, but "80W equivalent".  Seems LEDs are always rated in "equivalent" watts.  I'm surprised it doesn't actual say actual watts somewhere.  Even if not, they usually at least say how many amps @ 12V.

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This is getting alot of Attention, so far though I like the MZ brand LEDS they're much brighter and have more spread than the standards I had also they stay cooler to the touch after 20minutes of driving. As far as the 9011/9012s I love the idea but they're as expensive as a HID Kit and HIDS have a longer life expectancy. So I'm kinda on the fence of being able to try the 9011/9012s due to Price/Life/Brightness vs going HIDs

 

 

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$120 for the HIR1/2 9011/9012s

 

 

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Now that strikes me as a bit odd.......I was under the impression that the price of these Osram bulbs not too far above the price of the regular halogen bulb.

 

 

http://store.candlepower.com/hirlighting.html

 

perhaps you could contact this supplier and see if the price really is genuine?

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Yeah at AutoZone they're 30+ even cheapest on amazon is 25 gimme a bit I'm gonna check out your links, 15 is much more reasonable

 

 

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Philips/Wagner(Wagner Brand gives you a Philips), Osram, Ac Delco($55 so no no no), GE, and GP Thunder makes one that's a $20 set of 2 but has mixed reviews

 

 

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I have been running these in 1 pair of projector fog lights for about 5 months. They are instant on, direct plug in and come with 3 color sleeves, 3-, 5- and 6000k for fog lights and 5-, 6- and 8000k for headlights. I had to install them without a color sleeve as it would not fit in the H3 housing. If HID's are 3000 lumens, these are about 2000 lumens as they are not as bright. Most LED's are rated for the max short term output per LED and added together for the unrealistic total output because they are not run at max output for reliability (according to Diode Dynamics).

I will be adding some to the other projector fog lights and trying some of these in the Hella H4 housings in the Grand National as well to see how they work. (Photo too large, will update)post-9712-0-49534700-1460873114_thumb.jpeg

post-9712-0-74839600-1460873171_thumb.jpeg

I don't know how to make a link but these can be found on EBay for less than $60.

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That's pretty cool, the ones I posted at the start of the thread are $9 each rated at 4k Lumen and 4.3k color. I agree I don't think they're 4k Lumen by the light output you're probably close around 2k they're brighter than Silverstar Ultras by a decent amount. So vs $20-30 a bulb these are good around standard slyania price. Those are a cool alternative to HIDS color wise.

 

 

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That's pretty cool, the ones I posted at the start of the thread are $9 each rated at 4k Lumen and 4.3k color. I agree I don't think they're 4k Lumen by the light output you're probably close around 2k they're brighter than Silverstar Ultras by a decent amount. So vs $20-30 a bulb these are good around standard slyania price. Those are a cool alternative to HIDS color wise.

 

 

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How is the pattern of your lights? Are they close to stock, just brighter?

 

I thought the LED's I posted were a nice alternative to the PIA extreme white and Sylvania GXE bulbs as apposed to the $160- $200 a pair LED's that www-vleds.com sells.

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