sl3196 Posted March 4, 2016 Report Posted March 4, 2016 You don't have the bose system in there do ya? Have to run new speaker wires if so. Quote
Daermos Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Posted March 8, 2016 You don't have the bose system in there do ya? Have to run new speaker wires if so. Not that i have seen, the car does have 5.25 door speakers with tweeters. Now can anyone recommend a decent 5.25 speaker to get or does anyone have a set they would sell? Yes i know if pry cheaper online than going threw someone here, but i always prefer to help the individual more than the huge places Quote
Padgett Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 My nav is in my cell phone and has up to the minute traffic. I just move from car to car & just have one subscription. Am putting a stock cassette radio back in mine but if I cannot get the SWC to work (wiring is butchered and do not know if module is still there) may put a Firebird wheel onnit. Is easy without airbags. Might even have a beige formula wheel. Quote
Psych0matt Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 Cassette slot fits a cell phone pretty good Heartbeat1991 1 Quote
Euro Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 Factory deck with added AUX port. I have the bose with 7 way EQ with AUX and the sound quality is great. Did you need to do anything extra since you have the Bose? IIRC, back when I had my GP I remember reading about extra shit you needed to do to comply with the Bose amp, etc. I ended up keeping everything stock because I didn't want to mess with that. Quote
runt Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 Hey runt yeah it is the bulb on the clock, I am sure that all it needs is a bulb, was told by my buddy with a 98 that yes it is doable but it is also a serious pain in the ass lol. Yeah i have that basic pioneer that i would like to put in but still waiting to here what is needed to install, I have been told that it just a factory adapter. I have also been told that i need a bypass for the onstar system which is not in use. There are places out there where you can send your radio, they will fix any issues and add in the AUX port. You should consider that. Quote
94 olds vert Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 Did you need to do anything extra since you have the Bose? IIRC, back when I had my GP I remember reading about extra shit you needed to do to comply with the Bose amp, etc. I ended up keeping everything stock because I didn't want to mess with that. I bought mine from a guy on the GP board. I'm not sure if he had to do anything extra to make it work. Quote
Daermos Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Posted March 8, 2016 There are places out there where you can send your radio, they will fix any issues and add in the AUX port. You should consider that. Do you have a link for any of these amazing places hehe Quote
runt Posted March 9, 2016 Report Posted March 9, 2016 http://factoryradioservice.com/pontiac-aux-modified-radios-c-62_63.html That's the one I've looked at before. Quote
RPE1992GPSE Posted March 9, 2016 Report Posted March 9, 2016 The heroin addicts around here steal $80 Wal-Mart radios. It's sad. Quote
Daermos Posted March 30, 2016 Author Report Posted March 30, 2016 Ok So sadly the steering wheel controls went out... I am not sure how hard this will be to fix but if i decide to hold off on the repair i can throw in a deck for about 35 bucks. Also side note, I am not sure if anyone is interested in this or not but i did some reading on hooking up an aux for the stock deck, Now I am not one to shy away from doing some soldering work but i have found pry 5 aux/fm modulators and hook inline with the antenna. If you decide to go this route they are super easy to install and cost about 35 bucks Quote
Padgett Posted March 30, 2016 Report Posted March 30, 2016 For a 1995 up GM radio, this should work but read all of the questions and restrictions first. Quote
Daermos Posted April 10, 2016 Author Report Posted April 10, 2016 Ok so this is what i ended up doing, i had this pioneer from a malibu that i had nothing to fancy but has the mosfet 50x4 amp and sounds really good with the component speaker set. This deck does not support steering wheel control, took me about 20 min from harness adapter to install. Quote
MemphisMan Posted April 11, 2016 Report Posted April 11, 2016 With so many options available, sometimes the hardest part is just picking one and going with it. Glad it sounds good. Keep your stock HU though...you never know when you're gonna want to go back stock. Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted April 11, 2016 Report Posted April 11, 2016 If it has an infrared receiver, it's actually pretty easy to modify a HU and PAC SWI-X for hard-wired steering wheel controls (and I don't mean an unreliable infrared link). Quote
Daermos Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Posted April 12, 2016 If it has an infrared receiver, it's actually pretty easy to modify a HU and PAC SWI-X for hard-wired steering wheel controls (and I don't mean an unreliable infrared link). That may be a pretty good idea if i decide to fix my steering wheel controls. Gnat do you have a how to on how to do that???? Quote
GnatGoSplat Posted April 12, 2016 Report Posted April 12, 2016 That may be a pretty good idea if i decide to fix my steering wheel controls. Gnat do you have a how to on how to do that???? Nothing in detail, I did take pics of doing the mod on my Pioneer and Jensen HUs, but basically, every remote-controllable HU has something like this inside for the infrared receiver: https://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/file/view/IR-pinout.jpg/264668350/IR-pinout.jpg It has 3 pins, power (VCC), ground (GND), and OUT. Finding the ground pin is easy, just connect a multimeter in ohms mode and check for continuity between GND and the ground wire on the power harness. VSS is harder to find, but will be either 3.3V or 5V when the HU is powered up. The one that is neither power nor GND has got to be OUT. Just occurred to me this might be very difficult on a removable face HU with no service manual, because you'd have to use the multimeter to trace the OUT wire into the HU body somewhere since the IR receiver is going to be in the faceplate and you'd want to tap into some place on the main board. A service manual or schematic would make this a hundred times easier. Basically, you can just open a PAC SWI-X, find the positive wire of the IRLED and tap into it before the series dropping resistor. Solder a wire to that point, and run the wire to the OUT wire on the HU. You will still have to teach the SWI-X using the IR remote, but now the SWI-X can just send its signals hard-wired directly to the HU without any need to mount the SWI-X's IR transmitter anywhere. Really easy to reverse if you want to undo it as well, and your IR remote will still work. I have pics on my computer at home, though not sure they'll be helpful because yours is probably removable face so might make tracing that IR receiver OUT signal a big pain. I have the service manual for my Pioneer HU so I didn't have to do any actual tracing, just found a spot on the main motherboard that's connected to the IR receiver OUT pin and soldered the wire right to that spot. The Jensen I did this on I didn't have a service manual for, but it didn't have removable face and IR receiver was mounted right on the main board so that was easy as well. Quote
Daermos Posted April 12, 2016 Author Report Posted April 12, 2016 Nothing in detail, I did take pics of doing the mod on my Pioneer and Jensen HUs, but basically, every remote-controllable HU has something like this inside for the infrared receiver: https://arduino-info.wikispaces.com/file/view/IR-pinout.jpg/264668350/IR-pinout.jpg It has 3 pins, power (VCC), ground (GND), and OUT. Finding the ground pin is easy, just connect a multimeter in ohms mode and check for continuity between GND and the ground wire on the power harness. VSS is harder to find, but will be either 3.3V or 5V when the HU is powered up. The one that is neither power nor GND has got to be OUT. Just occurred to me this might be very difficult on a removable face HU with no service manual, because you'd have to use the multimeter to trace the OUT wire into the HU body somewhere since the IR receiver is going to be in the faceplate and you'd want to tap into some place on the main board. A service manual or schematic would make this a hundred times easier. Basically, you can just open a PAC SWI-X, find the positive wire of the IRLED and tap into it before the series dropping resistor. Solder a wire to that point, and run the wire to the OUT wire on the HU. You will still have to teach the SWI-X using the IR remote, but now the SWI-X can just send its signals hard-wired directly to the HU without any need to mount the SWI-X's IR transmitter anywhere. Really easy to reverse if you want to undo it as well, and your IR remote will still work. I have pics on my computer at home, though not sure they'll be helpful because yours is probably removable face so might make tracing that IR receiver OUT signal a big pain. I have the service manual for my Pioneer HU so I didn't have to do any actual tracing, just found a spot on the main motherboard that's connected to the IR receiver OUT pin and soldered the wire right to that spot. The Jensen I did this on I didn't have a service manual for, but it didn't have removable face and IR receiver was mounted right on the main board so that was easy as well. To be honest that is way ahead of what i know how to do lol i am good at modding, sound system and smaller paint/detail. Never been good at that kind of detailed wiring. http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-1300MP Is the dech i have, and yes it does have removable face. Quote
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