gasket replacements

[worb4me]

1998 Grand Prix GT 3800, silver, all scraped and dented up externally, but paint is o/w shiny as all get out.

 

I realize the top choice would be Felpro. Is that all there is in replacements? Any other worthy makes? Whether lower manifold or head gaskets. What about head/manifold bolts? Upper manifold replacement? Dorman ok?

 

Steel is a necessity regardless I'm sure.

 

One guy on youtube says to do the head gaskets if you're going in there to do the manifold, but that sounds ridiculous kind of (he generally works on 3400s so maybe there's more reason w/those). The 3800 has iron heads - is that the reason head gaskets so seldom blow? In reality, for someone who's never done it yet, replacing the head gaskets while in there isn't all that much more work, but as they usually say don't fix it unless it's broken. Does it make sense to do a seepage test to make sure (reasonably) the head gaskets aren't bad?

 

Everyone says avoid stop leak products, but they could work for a while at least. Thing is I don't mind doing the job (assuming my Chinese torque wrench can handle all that), but weather isn't always permitting. I've seen Barr's Intake plug up pretty big holes. I personally would pull the thermostat to avoid a potential problem w/that. People say it makes the actual job of replacing gaskets much harder, but why couldn't you just flush the system before dismantling it?

 

 I currently have a code (scanner is at mom's, got to pick it up), and also steaming/smoking from the front probably due to something leaking on exhaust manifold (hopefully just coolant, smells like it). I'm going to need to do something very soon. Not really driving the car yet. Want to get it ship shape, and I like it. I throw my cat in there sometimes for a change of scenery (don't let mine out), and I'll read in it sometimes. He's already clawing up the leather! Oh well. Still like the car a lot. It set me back 300$, I have to make the best of it LOL!!!

[rich_e777]

Don't put stop leak in your ride, that's the lazy route, do it right and replace gaskets. It also doesn't work worth a damn in some cases and will just linger in your engine doing Allah knows what. Is there a condition or issue that makes you think you need knew head gaskets other than them not being replaced?

 

You can rent a cooling system pressure tester from Autozone to see where your leak is coming from, I`d recommend that before replacing gaskets. But in a 1998 I would question how cared for it was and would probably go ahead and get at minimum the top engine gaskets like valve cover, TB, etc. I think with these engine its the valve cover gaskets that like to give the issues instead of the 60 degree LIM issues. Also check your coolant elbows as its been said they like to leak as well, Autozone also has these as a set in plastic or metal with new orings.

 

If you plan on keeping the car and really doing some nice work then I`d recommend a set of shop manuals or a subscription to alldata, alldata would be cheaper.

 

You better stuff that cat into the converter and get it off your leather before it pisses in there.

[digitaloutsider]

For the love of fuck do not put stop leak in your engine.  Unless you're trying to get a hoopty home to part out, it doesn't belong in any motor.

 

The Fel Pro stuff is fine and I've used their gaskets on plenty of 3800s.  For some reason, some vendors still sell the first design gaskets, so be sure to buy the revised gaskets.  The Dorman upper intake is fine, too.  You really should do the LIM gaskets, the plastic upper intake and the stupid coolant elbow on the side of the LIM.  3800s don't exactly eat head gaskets so unless you have a reason, I wouldn't bother going in there and changing them (unless you were going to do a total engine refresh or something).  Do the valve cover gaskets because they probably leak.

[Schurkey]

For the love of fuck do not put stop leak in your engine.  Unless you're trying to get a hoopty home to part out, it doesn't belong in any motor.

Explain that to the GM engineers who specify a "tablet" of stop-leak in (some or all) new and rebuilt GM engines.  Does GM sell an engine without a stop-leak tablet in it?

 

Having said that, it's MUCH better to FIND and FIX the leak than to just cram the radiator full of stop-leak products.  It is not that hard--I'd pressure-test the cooling system after removing the spark plugs.  Leave the pressure on overnight.  The next morning, look for external puddles, and a witness trail that indicates the source of the leakage.   You have steam, so an external leak is likely.  Have someone crank the engine while you watch for coolant spraying out of the spark-plug holes.  No coolant spray--no leaking head gasket.  Coolant spray = leaking head gasket or (less likely) cracked casting.  Then pull the oil pan drain plug.  Coolant in the pan is probably from an intake gasket...although you can't rule out cracked casting(s) .

 

Similarly, you could pressurize the cylinders with compressed air (a cylinder leakdown tester would be ideal) and look for bubbles in the radiator.  Again, that would signify a failed head gasket or cracked casting(s).

[Imp558]

Or... just a good visual inspection on the plugs to get things started before you bring in the special equipment. A plug that's burning off coolant and water will look different, should be like a white crust on it.

IF you need to do gaskets - and - you verify it's not the coolant elbow like Rich pointed out Rockauto has individuals and sets at better prices than most (and you'll get a cool toolbox magnet to boot).

Also Ebay sometimes yields some good prices.

With most things I don't play the name game since I firmly believe every fucking thing comes from China anyways but Gaskets are always FelPro for my cars.. just sayin'.

[Imp558]

You know, this could be the beginning of a top swap?