front coil springs

[vorador]

I have looked everywhere and can't find a thing, please help! I have a 94 grand prix se coupe, I'm changing the front coil springs and can't find anything on how to go about that. The strut housing is part of a "bell" that hooks the wheel. Just haven't seen one like this. How do I remove the coil?

[pitzel]

I have looked everywhere and can't find a thing, please help! I have a 94 grand prix se coupe, I'm changing the front coil springs and can't find anything on how to go about that. The strut housing is part of a "bell" that hooks the wheel. Just haven't seen one like this. How do I remove the coil?

 

"Officially" with the J34013 tool.  Unofficially, with a set of spring compressors (yes, the deathtraps).

[vorador]

Do it take the whole strut housing off? How would I do that on this model?

[pitzel]

Do it take the whole strut housing off? How would I do that on this model?

 

Are you aware of how the struts work on the car, that they are cartridges that are changed by removing them from above, rather than removing the whole strut tower assembly?

 

Someone who's done it probably should advise you on a safe procedure, but I'm 100% sure that you'll have to remove the strut cartridge before you can remove the spring.  So you'll need the appropriate strut cartridge removal tools, in addition to your spring compressors. 

 

It pretty much logically follows that you'll want to replace the front struts if they're the originals.  When you do the springs. 

 

Seriously though, it is a different setup than is on most other cars. 

[rich_e777]

I need to do the front all the struts on my CS as well but I`m opting to do everything all at once, including a bit of a drop. They rent out those compressors at AZ for basically free so long as you bring them back.

 

One thing about doing the cartridges, When I went to just change those years ago I stripped out one of the torx bolt at the top of the tower trying to hold it in place when using the crowfoot socket. Several members have mentioned just using a big ass pair of vice grips on the strut itself vs going by the torx bolt at the top.

[vipmiller803]

As mentioned above, if looking for replacing dampers, then you are just going to replace cartridges on the front. They come out through the top. That torx mentioned can be grabbed a lot better with an allen tip of the right size, at least that is what I did.

 

If you are looking to change the springs themselves, then yes use compressors and the whole knuckle/strut comes out, since it is one piece.

 

Cheers.

[Padgett]

Are basically McPherson Struts invented by a GM engineer in 1954 but not used. Better known as Chapman Struts, think they intro'd in the 1980 J bodies.

Have had a gaggle of E, H, and P bodies with them.

Has some interesting characteristics in extremis that I used to design a single piston aluminum die casting machine ladle. Another piece used fiber optics and Infrared detection feeding a digital computer in the early 70's. Scrap was reduced 30%, union claimed a work speed-up, & was dropped. GM and I soon parted company. Edited March 1, 2016 by Padgett

[Imp558]

It's "Preferred" to have the strut removal tool, I pop the boot up and grab that weird spanner nut thing with a pipe wrench right through the spring. A set of spring compressors is necessary and you don't have to separate the ball joint or anything. It's no fun.

[W30olds]

I need to do the front all the struts on my CS as well but I`m opting to do everything all at once, including a bit of a drop. They rent out those compressors at AZ for basically free so long as you bring them back.

 

One thing about doing the cartridges, When I went to just change those years ago I stripped out one of the torx bolt at the top of the tower trying to hold it in place when using the crowfoot socket. Several members have mentioned just using a big ass pair of vice grips on the strut itself vs going by the torx bolt at the top.

Or use an impact. I stripped the shitty torx bit also. Then I just zipped the nut off with my impact. Took no time with air tools.

[Schurkey]

Are basically McPherson Struts invented by a GM engineer in 1954 but not used. Better known as Chapman Struts,

 

Far as I know, Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman, founder of Lotus, only used "Chapman struts" on the rear.  The "Chapman Strut" included the damper and spring, and was used with a lower control arm, or with a radius rod and the axle shaft combining to locate the hub.  The use of the drive axle and radius rod for location is considered the "pure" version of the Chapman Strut, as it eliminates the weight of the control arm.  ACBC was perpetually concerned about excess weight!

 

 I stripped the shitty torx bit also.

What "shitty torx bit" are you guys using that "strips" so easily?  Harbor Freight junk?  I have a hard time believing that a proper, decent Torx bit would give problems.  I have a VERY hard time believing that someone could jam a hex (Allen-style) bit into a Torx fastener, and have better luck than using the Torx bit to begin with.

 

I don't doubt there are plenty of "shitty Torx bits" out there for sale from Communist sources, sold in the discount stores.  My question is "why are you buying shitty tools?"

[Imp558]

I have yet to strip anything torx, they usually snap first. In the north here it's common for things to be so rusted and crusted together that even quality tools break from time to time. I have drilled out a lot of bolts and I wouldn't think of touching anything under a car without a good amount of penetrating oil beforehand to hedge my bets.

Edited June 22, 2016 by Imp558

[W30olds]

Far as I know, Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman, founder of Lotus, only used "Chapman struts" on the rear. The "Chapman Strut" included the damper and spring, and was used with a lower control arm, or with a radius rod and the axle shaft combining to locate the hub. The use of the drive axle and radius rod for location is considered the "pure" version of the Chapman Strut, as it eliminates the weight of the control arm. ACBC was perpetually concerned about excess weight!

 

What "shitty torx bit" are you guys using that "strips" so easily? Harbor Freight junk? I have a hard time believing that a proper, decent Torx bit would give problems. I have a VERY hard time believing that someone could jam a hex (Allen-style) bit into a Torx fastener, and have better luck than using the Torx bit to begin with.

 

I don't doubt there are plenty of "shitty Torx bits" out there for sale from Communist sources, sold in the discount stores. My question is "why are you buying shitty tools?"

Snap-On torx bits if you really want to know

[Nas Escobar]

Far as I know, Anthony Colin Bruce Chapman, founder of Lotus, only used "Chapman struts" on the rear.  The "Chapman Strut" included the damper and spring, and was used with a lower control arm, or with a radius rod and the axle shaft combining to locate the hub.  The use of the drive axle and radius rod for location is considered the "pure" version of the Chapman Strut, as it eliminates the weight of the control arm.  ACBC was perpetually concerned about excess weight!

 

What "shitty torx bit" are you guys using that "strips" so easily?  Harbor Freight junk?  I have a hard time believing that a proper, decent Torx bit would give problems.  I have a VERY hard time believing that someone could jam a hex (Allen-style) bit into a Torx fastener, and have better luck than using the Torx bit to begin with.

 

I don't doubt there are plenty of "shitty Torx bits" out there for sale from Communist sources, sold in the discount stores.  My question is "why are you buying shitty tools?"

 

I speak for myself when I say that I actually broke the torx bit that came with the Auto Zone rental tool. Total PITA that one was. As far as stripping it, yes it's possible but that would also mean you're not holding the tool right. I know if you allow the torx bit to go upwards as you're trying to move the ratchet (and this happens more often with extensions) then it can start stripping. Other than that I've never seen or been able to strip a torx bit.

 

Now my question for you is what are you by trade that you're using Snap On tools?

[W30olds]

I speak for myself when I say that I actually broke the torx bit that came with the Auto Zone rental tool. Total PITA that one was. As far as stripping it, yes it's possible but that would also mean you're not holding the tool right. I know if you allow the torx bit to go upwards as you're trying to move the ratchet (and this happens more often with extensions) then it can start stripping. Other than that I've never seen or been able to strip a torx bit.

 

Now my question for you is what are you by trade that you're using Snap On tools?

Worked for Acura for several years as a auto tech. Have a big ass tool box full of Snap On tools. Then went to HVAC school and have been a commercial AC tech for over 10 years now. So that's how I have aquire my Snap On tools sir.

[Nas Escobar]

That comment was for Schurkey. He tends to be a character around these parts.

[W30olds]

That comment was for Schurkey. He tends to be a character around these parts.

No worries man. Now he knows! 😎

[Schurkey]

Now my question for you is what are you by trade that you're using Snap On tools?

That comment was for Schurkey. He tends to be a character around these parts.

10 years auto repair industry.  (1980--1990)  Hated most every moment of it.  Flat-Rate doesn't pay to do things "right".  It pays to do things "Fast" and I am not by nature "fast".  I swung wrenches, mostly, but I also worked the parts counter, and wrote work orders and provided estimates as a Service Advisor.

 

13 years city bus assembler/problem solver/character/Union Officer.  When the engineers couldn't figure out how to build the bus, we Lead Hands on the "assembly line" took care of it and then wrote the Engineering Change Order afterwards--with 8X10 sketches, circles and arrows, and a paragraph on the back of each one.  Had a poor opinion of automotive engineers from my time as a repair tech.  Opinion of engineers declined further as my experience in the Bus Industry grew.

 

Currently retired, but maintaining "My Fleet" along with my certifications.  My tools save me money, they don't earn me money.  I've learned to really like that distinction.

 

For the record, I wasn't the one who claimed to be using Snap-On tools in this thread...although I'll make that claim now.  (Also a bit of SK, Wright, Mac, Matco, Proto, Bonney, ancient USA Craftsman; and with a dusting of Herbrand, New Britain, KD, Armstrong and some foreign makes.)

[W30olds]

10 years auto repair industry. (1980--1990) Hated most every moment of it. Flat-Rate doesn't pay to do things "right". It pays to do things "Fast" and I am not by nature "fast". I swung wrenches, mostly, but I also worked the parts counter, and wrote work orders and provided estimates as a Service Advisor.

 

13 years city bus assembler/problem solver/character/Union Officer. When the engineers couldn't figure out how to build the bus, we Lead Hands on the "assembly line" took care of it and then wrote the Engineering Change Order afterwards--with 8X10 sketches, circles and arrows, and a paragraph on the back of each one. Had a poor opinion of automotive engineers from my time as a repair tech. Opinion of engineers declined further as my experience in the Bus Industry grew.

 

Currently retired, but maintaining "My Fleet" along with my certifications. My tools save me money, they don't earn me money. I've learned to really like that distinction.

 

For the record, I wasn't the one who claimed to be using Snap-On tools in this thread...although I'll make that claim now. (Also a bit of SK, Wright, Mac, Matco, Proto, Bonney, ancient USA Craftsman; and with a dusting of Herbrand, New Britain, KD, Armstrong and some foreign makes.)

I agree with you about working in the automotive industry. I didn't care for it either. I did enjoy learning about cars and doing repairs, but the politics sucked. I do like the fact that I can fix many things myself on my own cars and saves me a ton of money!