rich_e777 Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Ive got just about a week left on my GTP temp tags so I need to get this sorted ASAP. She has the p0141 code for a malfunctioning rear O2 sensor heater element. I went ahead and just replaced the sensor and the light went off after a drive down the road but has returned as I was heading to the emissions testing place. Engine runs fine, and I get roughly 19/20 mpg ATM. Ive read and watched a few videos on how to check the harness for 12v and resistance numbers for the sensor and plan on doing that tomorrow but wanted to ask about this to see if there was something else I could look at. I did look for a fuse on the diagram but I don't have my manual set with me so I don't know which fuse is associated with the bank 2 o2 sensor circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 (edited) I'm thinking it is just a wiring issue, or a bad replacement. I went through 4 IACs for my GTP before I got a good one. I went over the wiring over and over. Edited January 1, 2016 by 94 olds vert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 The pink wire should have 12v with the key on. the tan and violet are signal and the fourth wire provides a ground to heater via the PCM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted January 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 I'm thinking it is just a wiring issue, or a bad replacement. I went through 4 IACs for my GTP before I got a good one. I went over the wiring over and over. I checked the harness up to about where the downpipe goes up and didn't see any issues. I`ll have to get at me fsm set tomorrow but Ive burned my right hand pretty bad so now I may have to pay someone to fix it for me. I cringe at the thought but I do know a Vet that built up a L67 with a genIII supercharger and seems to know a great deal about these cars. So I might have to go with him. The pink wire should have 12v with the key on. the tan and violet are signal and the fourth wire provides a ground to heater via the PCM. I hope its just a bad ground, is there a thing that would prevent the pink from having the 12v other than a bad wire or pcm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Fuse, there's no "ground" on a heater circ, the pcm grounds it through a shunt. It has a current sensors more or less inside that tells if the heater is drawing enough current to be working rich_e777 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted January 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2016 Hopefully solved the issue today. Burned hand and all so I`m stoked I was able to do it. Tested the actual sensor on wire C and D first and got the correct resistance so I was going to test the harness of the car next, anticipating finding the correct voltage and continuity on the harness I wanted to trace it all the way back to the pcm for shits and giggles. Well right around the back of the front sway bar just out of obvious sight a critter nawed the ground wire apart and damaged the low signal wire. Because of the tight space and hand, I couldn't strip the harness wires with my crimping tool so I sort of chiseled of a bit of the insulation with just a regular razor blade. I was able to get some needle nose pliers in the right spot to clamp the butt connector down real good and then covered each end with some electrical tape. Got everything back together and started it up and no dash light, put about 10 miles on it and it hasn't come back yet but that could be because the drive cycle hasn't finished yet. Nearly 20 mpgs driving through neighborhoods and 45-50 mph mainstreets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Hopefully solved the issue today... ...I was able to get some needle nose pliers in the right spot to clamp the butt connector down real good and then covered each end with some electrical tape. As long as you understand that that will not be a permanent fix. You'll have to dive back in there to properly repair the wire as soon as you're able. Any road-splash entry will corrode the copper--so the sooner you do this right, the less wire you'll have to replace. When the insulation on my RF wheel speed sensor was damaged, I had to excise about a foot of green copper to get back to wire good enough to connect to. Imp558 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted January 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 Oh certainly temporary, I can do better once I have more time to snake the harness out where I can work on it right. This is just to get me through the emissions test to get my plates. I did put 40 miles on it today to see if the light would come back on, since it didn't I`m going to run it through the emissions test before work tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted January 9, 2016 Report Share Posted January 9, 2016 110â„… agree with Shurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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