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[jiggity76]

4 hours ago, jimmyfloyd said:

This is the only reason I still come here is waiting for it to start!

 

Well, that and waiting for your STE to get home...

 

And well, I guess for MemphisMan to sell his HUD Vert....

 

 

Update Jimmy, got started on the fuel tank coming down but ran into a snag.  I wanted to take the rear bolts off of the tank straps but now maybe I should have done the front.  I need to look at Imp's post and see if those hoses on top of the tank need to be disconnected or not.  If not, I'm going to drop the tank straps from the front of the tank, make it easier on myself.  I'll post pics here in a little bit. 

I'm heading out May 21st to bring home the STE!  So excited!  I'll take pics of my journey off course and post them.

[jiggity76]

Started working on dropping the fuel tank for the fuel pump replacement.  Might have done something wrong and caused me extra work but that's ok.  It's already done.  The jack stand rubber pads worked great and so did the rubber wheel blocks.  I'm going to get another set and use them to possibly block the trailer so it doesn't move as I pull the STE up on the trailer.

Filler neck tube and vent tube disconnected.

I think this is the connector for the fuel pump, disconnected.

Since the International lived in Oklahoma all it's life, everything is so pristine underneath, no rust and bolts are so easy to break loose.  Is this the original sending unit part number tag?

Disassembled the filler neck to give me more wiggle room down below.  I also removed the rear quarter splash shield.  That's just red Oklahoma dirt, not rust LOL!

I ran out of time and need to look at some old threads.  I think Imp said that you don't have to disconnect the two rubber lines up above the rear of the tank in order to drop the tank?  I also consulted with 55trucker.  I partially removed the left side rear tank strap and may have caused me extra work.  If I don't need to remove those two hoses/lines, I'm going to take out the two front bolts on the tank straps, much easier to get to.

 

[jiggity76]

Big thanks to Jay!  He grabbed me these LQ1 motor pieces that I need for the STE.  They will make a big difference in the appearance and correctness of it's engine bay.  Also, he grabbed me an extra cam cover and these little booklets.  They have awesome information regarding our W's including torque specs.  I've never seen them before or even heard of them so I think they are kinda rare, maybe not, but I am so thankful he grabbed this stuff for me.  I really needed this little spark plug holder for the front wires as my STE's is missing I think and the wires are just thrown everywhere.  I also put in my spare cluster and the rest of the dash/HUD so that I can watch her vitals when I first start her up in over 10 years of not running!

[Z34Luminasty]

I’m excited to see it run and hear all about it!

[jiggity76]

15 minutes ago, Z34Luminasty said:

I’m excited to see it run and hear all about it!

You and me both Sister!

[ManicMechanic]

21 hours ago, jiggity76 said:

Big thanks to Jay!  He grabbed me these LQ1 motor pieces that I need for the STE.  They will make a big difference in the appearance and correctness of it's engine bay.  Also, he grabbed me an extra cam cover and these little booklets.  They have awesome information regarding our W's including torque specs.  I've never seen them before or even heard of them so I think they are kinda rare, maybe not, but I am so thankful he grabbed this stuff for me.  I really needed this little spark plug holder for the front wires as my STE's is missing I think and the wires are just thrown everywhere.  I also put in my spare cluster and the rest of the dash/HUD so that I can watch her vitals when I first start her up in over 10 years of not running!

Might not be as rare as we thought...There are 3 of them on ebay. All 1991 though.

[jiggity76]

4 hours ago, ManicMechanic said:

Might not be as rare as we thought...There are 3 of them on ebay. All 1991 though.

Oh well, I'm just so glad I have one now!  I've already use some info from it.  Thanks again bud!

[jiggity76]

Didn't feel like getting under the car and working on the tank so I decided to clean the filthy seats instead.  Really happy with the results!  I used Resolve, Turtle Wax Upholstery cleaner, and rented a Rug Doctor with the car attachment to pull all the gunk out.  I want to do it again a few more times and also do the carpets.  I ran out of time so just focused on the seats.

Driver's seat.

Left rear before.

After.

Right rear, it was the cleanest of all but did it anyway.

Passenger seat was the worst of all by far.  Really bad dark spots and I was worried it wasn't going to come out but all of it did thank God.

 

[MemphisMan]

Those seats really came clean!  That interior is beautiful!  Use that Turtle Wax upholstery cleaner a few times and they'll look a little better each time.  I'm going to have my seat foams replaced at some point and I'll give the cushions a super detailed cleaning at that point.  Then I'll scotch guard them.  Nice work jiggity, now lets hear that bad boy run!

[jiggity76]

10 hours ago, MemphisMan said:

Those seats really came clean!  That interior is beautiful!  Use that Turtle Wax upholstery cleaner a few times and they'll look a little better each time.  I'm going to have my seat foams replaced at some point and I'll give the cushions a super detailed cleaning at that point.  Then I'll scotch guard them.  Nice work jiggity, now lets hear that bad boy run!

Thanks!  I just got tired of sitting in a dirty interior.  Now I want to get it running and then I'll do the interior a few more times to get it as clean as I can.  I was really worried about taking the color out of the material but no issues with this method.  Years of neglect and dirt build up really made it look so dingy and sort of white looking, especially the passenger seat.  I'm interested to see how your cushions will come out, I need to do mine at some point too.  The rear seats look awesome but the fronts need attention.

[55trucker]

On 4/14/2019 at 5:30 PM, jiggity76 said:

Had another fun today working on the International.  After going thru some old brochures, I realized I ran the red wires wrong along with the wire protectors.  I remedied that and also started switching out the awful screw hose clamps to the correct squeeze style ones.  I also ordered a new gasket for the coolant junction housing and will get everything buttoned up once I get it installed.  Still need to do the rear wires/plugs and will get the area around the coil packs tidied up also.

 

Upper radiator hose.

 

 

 

I was just thumbing thru these pics you uploaded when I noticed this.........the top of that bleeder valve is missing, it appears as tho it has been sheared off, there should be a hex head on the top of the brass valve one can open to bleed out the air. 

[MemphisMan]

I was just thumbing thru these pics you uploaded when I noticed this.........the top of that bleeder valve is missing, it appears as tho it has been sheared off, there should be a hex head on the top of the brass valve one can open to bleed out the air. 

Great catch. Yeah, that thing is sheared for sure. Here is what it should look like:



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jiggity76]

14 hours ago, 55trucker said:

I was just thumbing thru these pics you uploaded when I noticed this.........the top of that bleeder valve is missing, it appears as tho it has been sheared off, there should be a hex head on the top of the brass valve one can open to bleed out the air. 

 

6 hours ago, MemphisMan said:

Great catch. Yeah, that thing is sheared for sure. Here is what it should look like:



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Oh wow, thank you my friends!  Are these specific for the LQ1's or will my parts car with the 3.1 work?  Guess I can look tomorrow or maybe you guys know where I can get one.  Are they readily available at parts stores?  It's amazing how I'm sweating the little stuff like this to make this car correct and complete, lots of miscellaneous things either missing or wrong.

[55trucker]

It's a general bleeder screw, you can find them on many GM vehicles where the rad filler spout is not the highest point of the cooling system. They are needed to bleed the air out of the system.

[jiggity76]

23 minutes ago, 55trucker said:

It's a general bleeder screw, you can find them on many GM vehicles where the rad filler spout is not the highest point of the cooling system. They are needed to bleed the air out of the system.

Ok, thank you.  Hopefully the parts car will have it.  Thanks for bringing it to my attention too.

 

 

 

[MemphisMan]

17 hours ago, jiggity76 said:

Ok, thank you.  Hopefully the parts car will have it.  Thanks for bringing it to my attention too.

 

 

 

Your car has two of these bleeders.  Both are circled below.  It looks like the heater inlet hose one is good (the one closest to the firewall).

 

[jiggity76]

44 minutes ago, MemphisMan said:

Your car has two of these bleeders.  Both are circled below.  It looks like the heater inlet hose one is good (the one closest to the firewall).

 

Ok, thank you.  It's cool that you can circle things in pics, very magically!  I'm going to get it fixed soon, need to look at the parts car and if not there, then parts stores or junkyard.  I'm glad I got rid of those grey wires in front.  Red ones are so much better.

[jiggity76]

Bad one.  It was definitely rounded off and missing the vent top piece entirely.

 

 

[jiggity76]

All fixed.  Thank you 55 and Memphis!

 

[MemphisMan]

On 5/20/2019 at 3:53 PM, jiggity76 said:

Ok, thank you.  It's cool that you can circle things in pics, very magically!  I'm going to get it fixed soon, need to look at the parts car and if not there, then parts stores or junkyard.  I'm glad I got rid of those grey wires in front.  Red ones are so much better.

I'll be changing to red wires next time!

[jiggity76]

18 hours ago, MemphisMan said:

I'll be changing to red wires next time!

Red wires with the red exterior will be sweet!