Rear Brakes: Crank out Calipers VS. Piston Calipers

[l67ss]

^Sorry bout double post

[l67ss]

I would just use regular 04+ rotors and calipers...and yes 04+ rotors are different than 97-03

[Psych0matt]

I would just use regular 04+ rotors and calipers...and yes 04+ rotors are different than 97-03

but the point is that they can be swapped out and the caliper bolts on to 2g hardware? I'm thinking I'd go this route anyway (I'm sure I won't find gxp brakes on the yard). It just sounds easier and more reliable than the 2g setup

[l67ss]

Yup theyll bolt up. Just make sure to get 04+ rotors too...theyre thicker. Another option is alero calipers

[LUMINATOR]

Well I bleed out the brakes the other day.  Seemed to help a little bit, I was on a long road trip the other day and at first the pedal was still a little sponge but after a while it got a lot harder (That's what she said! ) haha! Once I shut the car off and got back in it to go home the pedal was sponge again...   

[vipmiller803]

Well I bleed out the brakes the other day.  Seemed to help a little bit, I was on a long road trip the other day and at first the pedal was still a little sponge but after a while it got a lot harder (That's what she said! ) haha! Once I shut the car off and got back in it to go home the pedal was sponge again...   

classic air in lines symptom... If you have air somewhat upstream in the system, you may have to bleed there before going to the calipers. AKA bleed at MC first.

[RobertISaar]

I've solved a whole lot of brake feel issues that way... it's always worth a shot.

[LUMINATOR]

So I should just crack the two lines at the  master cylinder and try bleeding it from there, then move onto the calipers?

[RobertISaar]

I would do the lines for the front wheels as well.... if nothing else, should you need to do them in the future, they should be less difficult when the time comes for them to be opened.

[Crazy K]

lateral links (aka spindle rods) are different lengths between first and second gens.   but only by about 1/2"  second gens are longer.

[LUMINATOR]

Well I bleed out the braking system on the car. and that didn't help. Its looking like the lift and right e-brake cables(going to the calipers) need to be replaced and also with the one coming out of the car and connecting to the lift and right cable. So I can get the rear brakes adjusted up. Also on these older w-body cars don't the master cylinder and booster go bad in them, causing a spongy pedal condition?       

[primergray]

Not more than any other older car...unless it's a TGP... Does the pedal slowly drop if you keep pressure on it? 

[LUMINATOR]

 

primergray well when the car is off I can pump the pedal up and make it rock hard.  Then when i start the engine it becomes soft again, it doesn't go straight it the floor just spongy.  

 

[l67ss]

Try capping the hose to the booster and see if it runs any dif

[LUMINATOR]

So just cap the vacuum line going to the brake booster and test drive it?  

l67ss

[LUMINATOR]

well i capped the vacuum line going to the booster felt the pedal and it was rock hard! Then hooked vacuum line back up, and the brake pedal was soft again.... bad brake booster maybe? 

[55trucker]

see post #13