1998 Lumina - keeping it running

[Mlewk]

Hi.

I just got a 98 lumina base model with 130k on it. What should I look into and check out maintainance wise to keep it running for as long as possible? Also, what basic modifications should I do to help this goal as well?

The car just got a new water pump and battery and the alternator seems to be fine.

Basically what I'm asking is what should I do for a full tune up of the car.

Thanks,

Mark

Edited June 30, 2015 by Mlewk

[Torque_Effect]

Keep an eye on the rear strut towers if you're in a state that tends to use salt on the roads.

 

Get the cooling system flushed, I recommend switching from the dexcool to a universal antifreeze. Dexcool if left too long will eat away at the intake gaskets, and if that happens it leaves a good chance you're will overheat and blow a head gasket when those intake gaskets fail.

 

Change the plugs and wires if they haven't been changed yet. Other than that I don't think there is much else to worry about.

 

Do a simple service to the transmission, drain fluid, replace filter, and fill with new Dextron, or dex/merc.

 

 

 

Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

[Mlewk]

What type/brand do you recommend for plugs and wires and transmission filter?

Thanks.

[Nas Escobar]

A/C Delco plugs, the 100k mile ones are the best ones to use. Same for wires, if you can get A/C Delco I'd go with that. One thing GM got right was their ignition system.

 

As far as trans filter goes, there's usually not many choices in that. Just go for the best one at your local parts store, they usually have em ranked as "good" "better" "best" or something to that extent.

[Mlewk]

I was looking at the service manual for instruction on how to replace the spark plugs and the manual called for a spark plug heat shield removal tool which I don't have. Any alternative means of accomplishing this?

[Nas Escobar]

Push the heat shield down as you grab the spark plug boot. The boot is suctioned into the heat shield. That is if I'm thinking of the same ones the 3800 has.

 

[Torque_Effect]

The heck?

 

Out of every single 3100 V6 I have seen, not a single one has those idiotic heat shield things for the plug wire boots.

 

But anyway, yes I agree AC Delco plugs and wires.

I can't really comment on transmission filters as my 98 Monte Carlo is the only car I have ever owned with an automatic, and my friend that I bought it off of had a shop already flush the transmission. Granted I may have to take that with a grain of salt since it was a quick lube place that did it.

[Schurkey]

What should I look into and check out maintainance wise to keep it running for as long as possible?

Change all fluids and all filters. Check owner's manual for lubrication points and types of lube. Those fluids that don't have an on-board filter should be flushed with clean fluid to remove all accumulated wear particles--Power steering and brake fluid, for example. Then top-off as required.

 

Inspect all safety-related parts--tires, steering, suspension, and brakes especially. Don't forget the park brake.

 

Keep an eye open for rust, bare metal, damaged paint.

 

Also, what basic modifications should I do to help this goal as well?

There are no modifications required to improve longevity. Longevity is more related to replacement of worn/defective parts than to modifications.

[Mlewk]

What about any preventative maintainance? Like for example liquids gasket sealer that you add to the coolant.

[snippits]

Oil all the locks and hinges including hood latch area and the trunk locking mechanism. Use silicone spray with teflon for the ignition switch and door lock key ways. Use silicone paste or dielectric grease to all the rubber molding including trunk seal and door seals. A leaky trunk is bad news, and it causes a car to stink too. If you have to replace any bulbs, use some CRC electronic cleaner, and then give the socket a good cleaning. Apply some dielectric grease to the bulb socket too but not too much.

 

Got to agree about the ACDelco plugs and wires because they are high quality. If money is tight, the Autolite Professional spark plug wires are cheaper, and they are good quality, and they are a lot better quality than the Advance store brand for example.

 

Definitely change the antifreeze, and get rid of the dexcool. As far as adding sealers to the antifreeze, I will only add Bar's Leaks tablets, and it has a GM part number because it was used in Cadillac engines. It does work to seal small leaks such as seeps between radiator and side tank and other leaks. O'riley and Napa do carry the tablets. Never seen them at Advance.

http://barsleaks.com/product/radiator-stop-leak-tablets/

[Mlewk]

What would you recommend for creaking door that doesn't open and close smoothly?

[snippits]

What would you recommend for creaking door that doesn't open and close smoothly?

 

My GM service manual for a 1992 Cutlass Supreme calls for motor oil for the hinge areas. The silicone spray with teflon will work too. WD-40 does not last long enough it seems to me, but if that's all you have I would use it too.

 

Dupont Teflon Silicone lubricant is some good stuff, and it does not leave a mess either. http://www.lowes.com/pd_124699-39963-D00100101_0__?productId=1007929

.

Edited July 1, 2015 by snippits

[Mlewk]

Is it possible the hinge is bent because it seems to move down slightly when the door opens and closes.

[Nas Escobar]

What about any preventative maintainance? Like for example liquids gasket sealer that you add to the coolant.

 

NO

 

ADDITIVES

 

OR

 

STOP

 

LEAKS.

 

 

P E R I O D.

 

 

Preventive maintenance on a GM V6 consists of a tune up (oil, spark plugs, cables, coils [if needed], filters [air, oil, cabin if equipped] and the most important... flushing out the dexcool if it still has it in there and changing the Lower Intake Manifold gaskets if it hasn't been done already. Swap em over to metal ones. The nylon ones are known to leak. That causes problems. The only additive I recommend is synthetic oil. Don't get those "stop leaks" or "stop knocks". Most of the time, it will just make the issue worse.

[Mlewk]

Do you recommend swapping out the gaskets even if there is no overheating issues?

[snippits]

Do you recommend swapping out the gaskets even if there is no overheating issues?

 

Don't fix it if it's not broke. Just check the oil every week, and look for the oil turning a milky color which indicates an internal leak most likely caused by the lower intake. Check the coolant every week too because if it's disappearing fast, then either it's getting in the oil, an external leak, or going out the tail pipe.

 

I bought a brand new off the lot 98 Malibu, and it had an intake leak at 15k, and it was replaced under warranty. The intake started leaking(seeping) again externally about 90k. My wife ran it in a ditch at 98K, so I never did get around to fixing the intake leak.

 

The only other real problem I had was with the EGR getting clogged, and the check engine light coming on. After I had paid three different times to get it fixed when inspection time rolled around, the mechanic that fixed it the fourth time told me that the previous mechanics were only cleaning the upper part which is the EGR itself. He said that he cleaned the lower part where the EGR bolts to the intake. He said it was chock full of carbon. After that, it ran for years without the check engine light coming on.

[pitzel]

Okay. Forget the wires -- unless they're visibly cracked/etc., they really don't go bad. Check the plugs, gap them to the spec under the hood, and leave otherwise alone (the ACDelco Platinum replacements are good and not too much money if you order from Rockauto/Amazon). The gasket will fail when it fails -- not much you can do before hand. Agree fully with the no stop leak business. Change the fuel filter if you want -- they're cheap from the usual sources. Struts are usually a good investment on all 4 corners if you can do the work yourself and they haven't been done before.

 

Ceramic brake pads when its time to change them really will cut down on the number of pads you go through.

 

Other than that, my suggestion is not to be too anal about maintenance. Even oil changes, the manual's suggestion is very conservative and you probably can go much longer without harm (I went 40k miles on my last oil change before tearing the oil pan off -- no deposits/sludge/etc. whatsoever with a quality synthetic oil). Other than that, basically start a sort of savings fund because although these vehicles do last a long time, insurers will write them off if anything but the most trivial in damage occurs.

[Mlewk]

Does the peak long life coolant not have dexcool in it?

[Schurkey]

I think you guys are WAY over-estimating the value of dumping the Dexcool.

 

Dexcool in the earliest years had some problems. Intake gaskets have been improved. Both problems are now "old news", not current events.

 

I think the supposed relationship where Dexcool contributes to rotted intake gaskets is mostly myth; or a reversal of fact. More likely that rotted intake gaskets contributed to contaminated coolant.

[snippits]

I think you guys are WAY over-estimating the value of dumping the Dexcool.

 

Dexcool in the earliest years had some problems. Intake gaskets have been improved. Both problems are now "old news", not current events.

 

I think the supposed relationship where Dexcool contributes to rotted intake gaskets is mostly myth; or a reversal of fact. More likely that rotted intake gaskets contributed to contaminated coolant.

 

It may be old news, but it's a 1998 with 130k. If that lower intake gasket is original, then I think that engine is blessed by the car gods.

 

Also, GM settled the Dexcool lawsuit, so it's no myth but fact. I owned a 1998 Malibu, and the intake gasket failed at 15k and 90k. I believe it was a combination of cheap gaskets and Dexcool, and I would never put that crap in one of my vehicles ever.

 

There was over 68, 000 claims against GM, and I am sure there were thousands more like me that did not even bother. You can believe what you want myth or not, but I am dang sure I was not imagining my intake being defective twice in less than 90k miles.

Edited July 2, 2015 by snippits

[Schurkey]

It may be old news, but it's a 1998 with 130k. If that lower intake gasket is original, then I think that engine is blessed by the car gods.

 

Also, GM settled the Dexcool lawsuit, so it's no myth but fact. I owned a 1998 Malibu, and the intake gasket failed at 15k and 90k. I believe it was a combination of cheap gaskets and Dexcool, and I would never put that crap in one of my vehicles ever.

 

There was over 68, 000 claims against GM, and I am sure there were thousands more like me that did not even bother. You can believe what you want myth or not, but I am dang sure I was not imagining my intake being defective twice in less than 90k miles.

I'll accept that the silicone-beaded intake gaskets had a high failure rate. I'm not convinced that Dexcool had anything to do with it.

 

The gaskets, and Dexcool have both been improved. If the intake gaskets aren't leaking there's no need to replace them. If they are leaking, then they do need to be replaced. If the coolant is more than five years old, or shows signs of deterioration, it should be flushed. If not...no. It doesn't make sense to flush good coolant just because it's Dexcool.

[Mlewk]

Does the peak long life coolant not have dexcool in it?

[Schurkey]

Does the peak long life coolant not have dexcool in it?

Dexcool is a trademark of GM. If the coolant meets GM specifications, AND the company pays the royalty fee, they can use the word "Dexcool". A coolant that doesn't meet GM specs, or a failure to pay the franchise fee means they can't sell the stuff as "Dexcool".

 

 

There's more than one way to make an extended-life coolant. My guess is that Peak is not the same formula as Dexcool. You could contact them and ask so you know for sure. If you can download the MSDS information for both Dexcool and the Peak stuff, you could compare them--you might find that they have different chemical make-up.

[carkhz316]

I think you guys are WAY over-estimating the value of dumping the Dexcool.

 

Dexcool in the earliest years had some problems. Intake gaskets have been improved. Both problems are now "old news", not current events.

 

I think the supposed relationship where Dexcool contributes to rotted intake gaskets is mostly myth; or a reversal of fact. More likely that rotted intake gaskets contributed to contaminated coolant.

 

 

I'll accept that the silicone-beaded intake gaskets had a high failure rate. I'm not convinced that Dexcool had anything to do with it.

 

The gaskets, and Dexcool have both been improved. If the intake gaskets aren't leaking there's no need to replace them. If they are leaking, then they do need to be replaced. If the coolant is more than five years old, or shows signs of deterioration, it should be flushed. If not...no. It doesn't make sense to flush good coolant just because it's Dexcool.

 

Agreed 100% with you Schurkey. I am highly doubtful Dexcool was ever an issue. I was quick to jump on that bandwagon for awhile, and then started seeing a number of cars that it was still happening to even with standard green coolant. I guarantee you if you swap to green antifreeze after doing any intake gasket job, you will see the same exact problem in a few years if you used the cheaper plastic gaskets. The biggest issue(s) are cheap gaskets and neglect of the cooling system. I figure when Dexcool came out with it's awesome 5 year/ 100K change interval, people ignored it ever more than changing the green stuff out (which is only good for 2 years/ 24K, by comparison).

 

Also agreed with Nas Escobar on not using any stop leak of any kind anywhere. I have never used anything, not even BarsLeak. I have just never seen any good with it. If there is a leak, fix it right. My automotive professor told me once (in regards to an A/C leak): "You wouldn't put a band-aid on a jugular wound, would you?"

 

OP: change fluids and filters regularly, and just fix stuff if it's "not doing what it's supposed to." Otherwise just drive it.

[RobertISaar]

crucify me if you must, but I've gotten the cheap <$2 Bar's Leak tubes to seal mystery coolant leaks before(owner didn't want to pull apart the engine to replace a gasket or two), but they will randomly open back up, at which point you get to look in the radiator and likely find mud inside. takes forever to clear it out doing a radiator dump/fill method, you would be pretty far ahead to use a cleaner, flushing it manually or probably both.

 

once all of the "mud" is removed, then you can either play roulette again or replace a gasket. longest I've seen stop-leak work for was from 1997 to 2014.... this being on the 95 monte carlo which had always used conventional coolant. I don't think the coolant got changed too many times along the way either. shortest was it never actually sealing anything.