3100 Help

[pshojo]

I know this has been discussed before, and i really didn't pay much attention because i've not been in the situation. I have 1995 cutlass supreme 3.1 and giving my engine to a friend of mine that has 1998 buick century 3.1 that is knocking. I pulled both motors and the intakes look distinctly different and some of the sensors are different. Please help me as i'm trying not to miss anything.

 

 

The EGR, Intake temp sensor, Knock sensor, exhaust manifolds, and fuel Injector harness under the intake looks like the connectors are different and will need swapped.

 

 

Can i just swap the upper intakes?

 

What else am i Missing? any other sensors, ?? Please help while the engines are out?

[RobertISaar]

upper intake needs swapped. coolant temperature sensor(s) may need thought around(your engine should have a 1-wire and a 2-wire while the century engine may have a single 2-wire or a single 3-wire). IAT should be the same? the rear exhaust manifold changed in 97, the newer style is better in terms of flow and less likely to crack. downpipe connection also changed, so you'll need to swap the rear manifold. knock sensor needs swapped. I can't think of a reason why the injector harness would be different.....

[pshojo]

What's NPSB?

only upper intake, not lower. Cool!

[RobertISaar]

............. I don't know how that got inserted?

 

anyways, the 98 lower LIKELY has the pressed in heater core line while your 95 engine has a threaded one. you can choose to adapt if necessary or swap the lower as well to match the car.

[pshojo]

How do I know if it necessary to swap? The heater lines come out slightly different spots, but pretty close.

[pshojo]

By the way, I knocked hole in the oil pan. . But when towed car to my place I ran the engine while we pushed it around to garage. Then noticed it had No oil. I should be ok with using this engine?

[Psych0matt]

when you say "no oil", do you mean "NO" oil, or it had lost a lot. You would usually hear if it's low enough to make a difference. If you ran it with no oil at all in it, I wouldn't risk it...

[pshojo]

I lost lot of oil, but by time it sat around, then moved the car around to the garage, I did see that engine oil was empty.

Edited June 14, 2015 by pshojo

[pshojo]

Maybe I should look into just upgrading to 3.5l,? I'm putting the engine in fir a family in our church that needs assistance and doesn't have money for new car

[Psych0matt]

In my opinion you can find a decent/better car (maybe needing a few things) easier and cheaper than getting and swapping an engine

[pshojo]

this does suck, thinking that when i hit something in the road that it only damaged trans pan, then to find out there actually is a hole in engine oil pan when i start pulling it.

 

I don't think i can find a decent car fot 600-$800. mmm figuring $350 for engine and $250 for Miltzy conversion kit for 3.5L

 

If i were to use the engine, besides oil pan, what would you do to engine to try to make sure to minimize engine damage... Probably won't use it now that i'm getting some opinions.

[RobertISaar]

if you're set on using it.... when you pull the pan, pull the main bearing caps and rod caps as well and take a look at the bearings/journals. if those look okay, then I would say it is probably able to stay in service with just a new pan/gaskets.

[pshojo]

Saar, Sounds like there is still a risk? this is a tough decision. If it was my car, i would automatically make different decisions, I would just do more powerful engine with.. Trying to keep cost down to minimum because they just want transportation and i'm paying for this to help them out. So appologize for all the posts because its tough decision and I really do not want to do this again.

[RobertISaar]

if the mains and rod journals look okay(and since you would need to pull the pan to replace it anyways), it is unlikely that the cam journals/bearings will be in too bad of shape, with an engine that may have been run without oil and has roller lifters, those are the 3 places that would concern me the most. checking 2 out of 3 should give you a good idea about the 3rd.

[pshojo]

Well I did it, took pan off and took crank bearing out, the bearings have slight grooves, just to point that they catch my fingernail. The rod bearings looked great. So I'm thinking bearings are not any good. There were no shavings in pan. Thoughts?

[RobertISaar]

don't suppose you can post pics?

 

if the journals look good and you didn't start burning into the bearing's backing material, I'd say you're just seeing normal wear.

[pshojo]

Pictures: Pan [ATTACH=CONFIG]18972[/ATTACH]Rod Bearing[ATTACH=CONFIG]18973[/ATTACH]Crank bearing [ATTACH=CONFIG]18974[/ATTACH]s[ATTACH=CONFIG]18975[/ATTACH]

[pshojo]

Hopefully these pictures tell enough.

[RobertISaar]

"invalid attachment" for every one I just clicked on.

[pshojo]

Try this... Crank Bearing

Edited June 15, 2015 by pshojo

[pshojo]

Oil pan, and rod bearing

[vipmiller803]

Damn that is one clean rod bearing. I agree that the main is not too great though. You might get away with just swapping main bearings, although some clearance measurements will then be in order. Assuming a more thorough rebuild is out of the question, if you have access to another engine, that might be best...

[RobertISaar]

I've certainly seen worse. I'd throw a new set of bearings in since they're a couple dollars/easily accessed and call it good. if you're feeling really nice, you could do the front and rear crank seals and the dizzy shaft seal(assuming they haven't been done already) and that would cover every common leak point as well.