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noisy door hinge


biggyfries

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I can't seem to make the 'search' work, so I'm asking for a way to make my door hinge quiet--passenger side makes a loud clunk-cluck whenever I open or close the door. It is not either of the hinges making the racket, its the door-tensioner spring-thing near the bottom hinge. Driver's side is nice and quiet but the pass. side is loud and obnixious. Must the door panel come off? Is that a hard job? I have broken many plastic pieces when taking off door panels. Suggestions?

BTW, its a '94 Cutlass Convert.

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Ive got to do the same for my drivers side but I haven't got the time at the moment. Well it used to make noise until the mechanism that props the door open about halfway became disconnected or broke, no noise now though.:lol:

 

The door panel will have to be removed for sure but Im not sure on the rest until I get into my fsm to see the rest. I`ll get back with you tomorrow after work.

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WD40 gets rid of most noise in hinges and things of the sort. The lever like rod in the middle of the hinges is a door stopper of sorts. It prevents the door from swinging out all the way, when it breaks it will either swing all the way out or close itself back depending on incline.

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Probably what`s happening in both of our cases, I haven't had a chance to dig into just yet. Hopefully there is a replacement part out there if something is broke, otherwise got to fabricate something up. Ive used 3in1 on my hinges, WD-40 is probably good as well. I wish they had it in a non pressurized bottle sometimes you just need some in a specific spot instead of sprayed everywhere.

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Mine made a popping noise as well. One more thing I should add, when this breaks, the door will bounce with the car. It gets annoying.

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You can try and lube the door check just like a hinge. Try and squirt something inside the door through the plastic cover onto the roller and it may shut up. It may not though, too. Part is discontinued, although new ones pop up for sale sometimes. Plentiful in salvage though. I have a broken one on one of my TGPs I need to replace.

 

Mine made a popping noise as well. One more thing I should add, when this breaks, the door will bounce with the car. It gets annoying.

 

The door is attached by the hinges in front and the latch in rear. The door check is what holds the door open in a couple detent positions and also probably limits the open travel like you said in you're first post. It supports no load. If the door is "bouncing" on bumps the hinges have to be completely shot or the striker/latch is really loose.

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The door is attached by the hinges in front and the latch in rear. The door check is what holds the door open in a couple detent positions and also probably limits the open travel like you said in you're first post. It supports no load. If the door is "bouncing" on bumps the hinges have to be completely shot or the striker/latch is really loose.

 

It went away after I replaced it. It sagged when it was broken too but that went away. I assume the hinges might be weak and the door check masks it. Iono

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-T989 using Tapatalk

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I guess I'm going to take the door panel off and have a look inside. I imagine it comes off like other plastic panels, just pry gently around the bottom and remove all visible screws, then lift it off--any other suggestions?

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I know the larger piece that covers the seat belt mechanism has to be removed, mines held on by bolts and washers now so I don't remember the factory set up. I`ll have my manual tonight and will post the procedure.

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I guess I'm going to take the door panel off and have a look inside. I imagine it comes off like other plastic panels, just pry gently around the bottom and remove all visible screws, then lift it off--any other suggestions?

 

There's 3 hidden screws. One of them is inside the panel where the power window switches are. That one is a phillips. The other one is hidden insde of the door handle and it attaches the plastic where you pull the door to close it. That one is a 7mm bolt. The 3rd one is hidden under the trim piece for the seat belt retractor. That one is probably cracked by now but if yours is miraculously held in in factory position, it will have a screw. Otherwise it is probably held in by screws that are semi visible.

 

I know the larger piece that covers the seat belt mechanism has to be removed, mines held on by bolts and washers now so I don't remember the factory set up. I`ll have my manual tonight and will post the procedure.

 

It was panel clips and a phillips screw.

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