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Attn: 3.8 Owners


DOHCRagtopguy

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Posted

Working on my winter beater, the 89 LeSabre, it was throwing a code 41-cam position sensor. I changed it, but it still throws the same code immediately. Traced the wiring to the conduit, seems ok.

 

Any suggestion from you Regal owners what it could be?

 

Thanks-Andy

Posted

the magnet could have fallen out of the camshaft sprocket. Don't know why it would have though but it might have happened.

 

It could be the ICM. You can take it to napa to get it checked.

 

I hope this helps.

Posted

So in order to fix that, the whole thing would have to get stripped down to the chain and gears? I didn't know there was a magnet on the cam gear.

 

Screw it, I'll unplug the stupid light.

Posted

It's not that bad to pull the front cover. It took me about an hour to get it off.

 

Yeah this weekend I can take a pic of the sprocket to show were the magnet is.

 

Or just do what you said unplug the light. The engine doesn't need the cam signal to run. just the crank sensor.

Posted

A pic would be very cool. Thanks for your help, I am relatively new to these 3.8 motors.

 

Oh well, a motor is a motor is a motor is a motor.

Posted

Go ahead, post the pic. I tried to pull the SES light out, can't get at it.

 

I'll probably just run it the way it is.

Posted

Here it is.

 

timingchain.gif

 

This isn't my usual host (it's down :( ) and this picture might not work all the time.

Posted

Thanks for posting the pic, Sean. What do you know about the crank sensor on these bad boys. Somebody told me that this could also be the problem, magnet fell off. But then I figure it wouldn't run, correct?

 

It's just that the damn SES light on all the time is annoying.

Posted

When does the light come on?

 

I think the car needs the cam sensor to send out the signal at the min. once in order for it to run.

Posted

The SES light comes on about 2 seconds after it's started and never goes off. And the only code it shows is for the Cam Pos. Sensor circuit.

 

According to the Chilton's book that I have, the ECM runs the motor on the last known signal that it got from the CPS.

 

I mean, this car only cost me 700 bucks, but having the damn light on all the time is a PIA.

Posted
Thanks for posting the pic, Sean. What do you know about the crank sensor on these bad boys. Somebody told me that this could also be the problem, magnet fell off. But then I figure it wouldn't run, correct?

 

It's just that the damn SES light on all the time is annoying.

 

if the crank sensor goes bad, it wont run or at least run hyper pooly (depends on how far it slips on the rubber) u need a special puller to remove it, and a special tool to set up the crank sensor. The crank sensor uses 2 concentric broken rings for the ign reluctor and injector pulse. very expensive part and almost impossible to find in the boneyard

Posted

The car will not run when the crank sensor is broken. Found that out when mine broke in may. :(

 

u need a special puller to remove it, and a special tool to set up the crank sensor. The crank sensor uses 2 concentric broken rings for the ign reluctor and injector pulse. very expensive part

 

I used a regular pully puller to get the harmonic balencer off, you might need to find the metric bolts for it though (I would tell you the size but I don't know where they are).

 

The crank sensor DOESN'T need a "special" allignment tool. I was told that when I had that replaced in may, but when I did my timing chain a month ago I found out that when I took the sensor off the sensor is on a dowel pin and you can't adjust it.

 

The crank sensor is $30.

Posted

I used a regular pully puller to get the harmonic balencer off, you might need to find the metric bolts for it though (I would tell you the size but I don't know where they are).

 

Here is a link to one version of the proper puller:

 

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/bradystools/lisharbalinp.html

 

Removing the harmonic balancer on late model 3300 and 3800 V6 GMs requires pulling hardware much different than conventional pullers. The 45300 is equipped with the special bolts and adapters to pull the harmonic balancer cleanly without damage to the crank sensor. Order the 45350 Retrofit Kit to use with your Lisle 45500 Harmonic Balancer Puller.

 

Choose to not use the tool and you risk destroying the pickup, the reluctors or wiping out the threads inside the crank itself. Guess how expensive that is to fix.

 

The crank sensor DOESN'T need a "special" allignment tool.

 

There are too many TSBs from GM detailing the procedures and changes to properly align the crank sensor. To ignore them is negligent. The balanced clearance is a few thousanths per side. Of course if your eyes are good enough to judge it....

 

The crank sensor is $30.

 

Yes, a cheap crank sensor pickup is $30-35, however the 2 reluctor rings that make it work are non removable and on the harmonic itself - BOTH should be replaced (the harmonic typically fails well before the pickup) and a cheap one from like autozone is about $120. The proper GM part is near $300

Posted

For a crank position sensor alignment tool

 

 

Look up NAPA Part# 7001791 $6.49. Thats what I used to line mine up

They are like plastic toothpicks. Its still a PITA to set up on the engine tho but it works.. Much cheaper then the $300+ price I saw for the J tool

 

The tool above is made by Thexton Part# 421

Posted

Thanks for all of the info, people, it is appreciated.

 

I'm not ripping apart the timing chain just for the magnet replacement. The motor runs fine the way it is so far. The SES light is a PIA though.

If the chain needs replacement sometime, I'll fix it then.

 

The Olds is enjoying the relative warmth of my garage. I get good vibes from there whenever I'm out there with my baby.

Posted

Yeah if it runs fine don't do anything. Espically if it's a winter beater.

 

Hopefully nothing else happens with your car. :D

Posted

Here is how you fix the SES light.... take a piece of black tape and place it over the light. Hey...look at that the ses light is gone.

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