derkach99 Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 I find that when it is really cold outside that the Cutlass pumps out little heat especially when going down the highway. Now I was told that my car has a second radiator that was never used in the 3.1L model and when my dad used the car to tow his boat he connected up the second rad to help cool the transmission under the heaver load. Would this be the cause? Also I topped up the coolant level recently, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 This is usually caused by thermostat stuck open. Does the temperature gauge read low? If so, changing the thermostat should fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Change out the thermostat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Bad thermostat or bad heater core. If the engine is running lower than 195F then it's the thermostat. If you have a coolant smell in your cabin when the heater is on, it's your heater core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 You could try flushing the heater core they can get clogged up over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) I find that when it is really cold outside that the Cutlass pumps out little heat especially when going down the highway. Cold air leaks into the cabin? Any way you look at it from the heater perspective, highway driving should provide the most heat--especially if you drop the trans out of overdrive so the RPM comes up. I have a GM pickup that had terrible heat on the highway, and merely inadequate heat in-town. Found that the crappy foam gaskets GM used to seal the various parts of the heater box and ductwork had disintegrated. I had a major cold-air leak into the cabin at the body-to-fan box junction. Replaced the original foam with hardware-store foam weatherstrip, and the heater will roast me out of the cab given sufficient time. Now I was told that my car has a second radiator that was never used in the 3.1L model and when my dad used the car to tow his boat he connected up the second rad to help cool the transmission under the heaver load. Would this be the cause? Nope. The 3.4 engine had a trans cooler, an oil cooler, the normal engine radiator (thicker than the one used in the 3.1) but there was no "second radiator" that would be connected or disconnected depending on whether one was towing or not. Even so, if the car used to have decent heat, but doesn't now...something is WRONG. I topped up the coolant level recently, Did you bleed the air from both cooling system bleeder screws? If not, your heater core has air in it. Heat output should still be better at higher RPM, though. Same with a stuck thermostat--it would likely produce the same or less heat in-town than it would at highway speed. Edited January 6, 2015 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 (edited) Cold air leaks into the cabin? Any way you look at it from the heater perspective, highway driving should provide the most heat--especially if you drop the trans out of overdrive so the RPM comes up. I have a GM pickup that had terrible heat on the highway, and merely inadequate heat in-town. Found that the crappy foam gaskets GM used to seal the various parts of the heater box and ductwork had disintegrated. I had a major cold-air leak into the cabin at the body-to-fan box junction. Replaced the original foam with hardware-store foam weatherstrip, and the heater will roast me out of the cab given sufficient time. Nope. The 3.4 engine had a trans cooler, an oil cooler, the normal engine radiator (thicker than the one used in the 3.1) but there was no "second radiator" that would be connected or disconnected depending on whether one was towing or not. Even so, if the car used to have decent heat, but doesn't now...something is WRONG. Did you bleed the air from both cooling system bleeder screws? If not, your heater core has air in it. Heat output should still be better at higher RPM, though. Same with a stuck thermostat--it would likely produce the same or less heat in-town than it would at highway speed. My dad was sure he hooked it up to a radiator, maybe it was another type of cooling for teh transmission. In town I seem to get ok heat however on the highway it is a bit lower. This at like -15C. If it is say -5C heat seems to be fine. I do fine however that at the same fan speed i find that cold air blows harder then warm air. On the temp gauge at -15C or low sub zero temperatures weither I am idling for awhile before I drive it or going down the highway the needle points to just above the first thick green mark on that gauge. however if I turn off the climate control the gauge indicates that the engine is hotter and I get some decent heat until I start driving it. What should I ask my mechanic to look at this weekend regarding this? Also I notice no cold air coming into the car. Edited January 6, 2015 by derkach99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Bleed the cooling system. Then verify proper engine temperature (thermostat operation.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Before you start taking things apart looking for the problem, pick up one of these little guys, they're very accurate, I've come to rely on one of these for temp related issues in the cooling system & engine cyl misfires, they're not expensive & will you give you an idea of what the coolant piping/hoses are running at. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Infrared-Temperature-Gun-USA-Thermometer-Accurate-Heat-Tester-Dryer-Grill-Laser/131373191337?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3D408c4d5ef7a541f08af09d871a0ad25c%26pid%3D100204%26prg%3D20140407115239%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D181233078125 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 well I have some bad new to report. When my mechanic informed me yesterday that when he attempted to install a new thermostat apparently the bolt holes broke holding it in place or something like that. As a result I need a new lower intake manifold, I know of a 94 as well as a 97 cutlass sitting in junk yards in my area so tomorrow I am going to be giving them a call, I hope it will be an inexpensive part. I am worried that this will be a $400 to $500 repair but at least I will have those crappy plastic gaskets changed with metal ones I hope. (3.1l know issue that I thought was only common with the 3.4l). I am sure she deserves the fix though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 well I have some bad new to report. When my mechanic informed me yesterday that when he attempted to install a new thermostat apparently the bolt holes broke holding it in place or something like that. As a result I need a new lower intake manifold, I know of a 94 as well as a 97 cutlass sitting in junk yards in my area so tomorrow I am going to be giving them a call, I hope it will be an inexpensive part. I am worried that this will be a $400 to $500 repair but at least I will have those crappy plastic gaskets changed with metal ones I hope. (3.1l know issue that I thought was only common with the 3.4l). I am sure she deserves the fix though. 3.1 LH0 or 3.1 3100? If it's the 3100, you can get em out of any other car. They're not Cutlass specific. They may be able to come out of a 3400, not too sure though. 3.1 LH0 limits your options to anything pre 1994. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 (edited) 3.1 LH0 or 3.1 3100? If it's the 3100, you can get em out of any other car. They're not Cutlass specific. They may be able to come out of a 3400, not too sure though. 3.1 LH0 limits your options to anything pre 1994. I have the 1994 cutlass I am pretty sure its the newer style. Is it a good idea to get the metal gaskets or will any gasket set work in a way that will not see them fail? Also how much would you think one would cost out of the yard? Edited January 19, 2015 by derkach99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted January 19, 2015 Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Does your plenum look like this? Intake manifold should set you back between $25 and $45 If you have a 3100 (L82), try getting it out of a 2004 Malibu. It would be 11 years old instead of 21 years old. If you can take your original one in, do so so you can compare it. I know the L82 was produced up until 1999 however the LG8 that replaced it in 2000 is very similar. How many parts interchange, IDK. I know in theory, one could use this version of the 3100 in the earlier 3.1/3100 cars AS WELL as the 3400 (not the TDC 3.4) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted January 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2015 Does your plenum look like this? Intake manifold should set you back between $25 and $45 If you have a 3100 (L82), try getting it out of a 2004 Malibu. It would be 11 years old instead of 21 years old. If you can take your original one in, do so so you can compare it. I know the L82 was produced up until 1999 however the LG8 that replaced it in 2000 is very similar. How many parts interchange, IDK. I know in theory, one could use this version of the 3100 in the earlier 3.1/3100 cars AS WELL as the 3400 (not the TDC 3.4) That's the one! Are you rebuilding it? From what I found when they did that update is does look very similar but the bolt location are different. I phones a few yards and they are all asking for $100 if they take it off because its winter. I am contemplating if I want to take the upper and injectors as well if its not to much more money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 That's the one! Are you rebuilding it? From what I found when they did that update is does look very similar but the bolt location are different. I phones a few yards and they are all asking for $100 if they take it off because its winter. I am contemplating if I want to take the upper and injectors as well if its not to much more money. Google pic. I have a 3.4. I might verify that when I go to a junkyard next time. Don't you have a "you pull it" style of yard around you? These things aren't hard to get off. All you really need is a 10mm socket, an 8mm socket (for the fuel rail bolts), a fuel disconnect tool, pliers (to pull on any random hose or compress clamps), a flathead (if claps are worm type) and I think that's it. I'd pull it for you, but I'm in DC and I assume shipping to Canada will be $100. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Google pic. I have a 3.4. I might verify that when I go to a junkyard next time. Don't you have a "you pull it" style of yard around you? These things aren't hard to get off. All you really need is a 10mm socket, an 8mm socket (for the fuel rail bolts), a fuel disconnect tool, pliers (to pull on any random hose or compress clamps), a flathead (if claps are worm type) and I think that's it. I'd pull it for you, but I'm in DC and I assume shipping to Canada will be $100. I have that option but I work 9 to 5 this week during their hours of operation and I want to get the parts as soon as possible to get my car going for next week. I managed to get the lower the upper and the fuel injectors for $125. I am pretty happy with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted January 20, 2015 Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Stories like that make it hard for me to trust other people to work on my car. I suppose he could have done everything right and still stripped out the bolt holes, but I'd have to wonder if he attempted the job on a hot engine. I'd also think it could be helicoiled or some kind of thread repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted January 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2015 Stories like that make it hard for me to trust other people to work on my car. I suppose he could have done everything right and still stripped out the bolt holes, but I'd have to wonder if he attempted the job on a hot engine.I'd also think it could be helicoiled or some kind of thread repair. ya, I am still confused what actually happened/broke but it was a good opportunity to get those engine components for an awesome price. I never knew an aluminum intake could break or rust for that manner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derkach99 Posted January 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2015 I have that option but I work 9 to 5 this week during their hours of operation and I want to get the parts as soon as possible to get my car going for next week. I managed to get the lower the upper and the fuel injectors for $125. I am pretty happy with that. well today I picked up the upper lower intakes, fuel injectors and some extras for $125 CAD not bad at all now time to wait for the labor bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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