97' Olds 3100 V6 valve adjusting?

[StreetsmartClassics]

OK all,

I have a 97' Olds Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.1L V6. The engine is leaking oil, due to needing the lower intake manifold seals replaced. I'm intending to do the repair, but one thing has me hesitant and/or confused about doing the job. After removing the rockers and push rods to replace the LIM seal, am I required to "set the valves" or can I simply bolt the rockers back on to a specified torque setting? I've read both. If anyone has an answer, or a place to get the details, I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks in advance!

[rich_e777]

Torque the rocker arms to spec and you are fine, just make sure everything goes back in the exact same place when re assembling. While you are down there you might want to check out the oil shaft plug under the throttle body that's known to leak oil as well.

Edited December 1, 2014 by rich_e777

[mfewtrail]

Torque the rocker arms to spec and you are fine, just make sure everything goes back in the exact same place when re assembling. While you are down there you might want to check out the oil shaft plug under the throttle body that's known to leak oil as well.

 

This. The torque spec if you need it is 124 inch-lbs + 30 degrees.

[StreetsmartClassics]

Thanks guys. I was hoping that it would just be a matter of putting all of it back like it was and torque them down to spec. I had found the torque spec earlier that was mentioned, but I wonder WHY the mfg didn't just figure out the torque setting at the 30 degrees point and record the final number, rather than require it to be done on a best guess, eye ball measure? Oh well I guess. Thanks again!

[StreetsmartClassics]

Yeah, I went ahead and bought the o'ring for the distributor hole/oil drive shaft, thinking that I would maybe get lucky, replace it, and be done. But after washing the engine down and waiting for new oil to reform, I'm getting a small puddle of oil under the car, closer to the passenger side tire. I'm thinking it might be the LIM on that side of the block.....and if that one is leaking, more than likely the other side is too. Ideas? This car has had the UIM replaced twice by previous owners and the car only has 139K on it. If I wanted to do the oil drive shaft o'ring first, how much crap needs to come off to get to the bolt and give enough clearance to pull the shaft up and out?

[Heartbeat1991]

Yeah, I went ahead and bought the o'ring for the distributor hole/oil drive shaft, thinking that I would maybe get lucky, replace it, and be done. But after washing the engine down and waiting for new oil to reform, I'm getting a small puddle of oil under the car, closer to the passenger side tire. I'm thinking it might be the LIM on that side of the block.....and if that one is leaking, more than likely the other side is too. Ideas? This car has had the UIM replaced twice by previous owners and the car only has 139K on it. If I wanted to do the oil drive shaft o'ring first, how much crap needs to come off to get to the bolt and give enough clearance to pull the shaft up and out?

 

Kinda sounds more like a front seal leak. But hard to say without seeing anything. The o ring on the oil pump drive isn't bad. You should be able to do it removing just the upper intake, possibly even just the throttle body, but that would be tighter. If you're going to do lower intake gaskets anyway, do it all together at ones. The gasket set come with all of them anyway.

[mfewtrail]

Thanks guys. I was hoping that it would just be a matter of putting all of it back like it was and torque them down to spec. I had found the torque spec earlier that was mentioned, but I wonder WHY the mfg didn't just figure out the torque setting at the 30 degrees point and record the final number, rather than require it to be done on a best guess, eye ball measure? Oh well I guess. Thanks again!

 

They do it to be difficult I suppose. Torque angle gauges can be purchased pretty cheap. Not sure if the auto part suppliers like Autozone, Advance, etc. rent them, but it might be worth asking as you could get your money back once you're done with it.

[rich_e777]

Yeah, I went ahead and bought the o'ring for the distributor hole/oil drive shaft, thinking that I would maybe get lucky, replace it, and be done. But after washing the engine down and waiting for new oil to reform, I'm getting a small puddle of oil under the car, closer to the passenger side tire. I'm thinking it might be the LIM on that side of the block.....and if that one is leaking, more than likely the other side is too. Ideas? This car has had the UIM replaced twice by previous owners and the car only has 139K on it. If I wanted to do the oil drive shaft o'ring first, how much crap needs to come off to get to the bolt and give enough clearance to pull the shaft up and out?

 

Timing cover gasket or crank/camshaft seal. or you might luck up and its just a rolled valve cover gasket. For the oil shaft also use some Permatex #2 sealant on the underside of the lip of the shaft. You might have to get that coolant bypass line out of the way to get the shaft out or at least the fitting from the thermostat housing needs moved to weasel the shaft out. Sometimes this piece is just threaded in but sometimes its a plastic quick disconnect clip and it likes to break.