cutlasssupremepizza Posted October 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2014 I do know they thread in, thing is with them threaded all the way in, they still stick out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlasssupremepizza Posted November 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 Anyone? I got new seals on the way, but how do you disengage the parking brake? It's disengaged at the interior, but with the callipers threaded in, they still stick out too far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 I bought the Dorman leaf spring bushings, supposed to not eat the pads like the moog ones. I've been wanting to replace mine for a while. How exactly does that monoleaf come out to replace these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I`ll get under my car later and see how they work, Ive never taken my calipers apart with the parking brake engaged. Have you tried moving the tab were the Ebrake cable connects to the caliper with some vice grips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlasssupremepizza Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Oh man, what do I do now? I got the struts put in, and tried to hook up the trailing arms, but the hole at the knuckle is about 1/2" spaced to the rear, since the new ones are Chinese, I thought maybe they were too short, but they are not. I tried using a pry bar to move the knuckle closer to the front of the vehicle, but no dice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlasssupremepizza Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 (edited) Got it! I guess I needed to jack it up (the knuckle) higher, I was just worried about the leaf breaking. Now on the drivers side, the parking brake cable jacket is broken. I was thinking of just disconnecting it, but how hard is it to replace? Rockauto and other sites list 3 cables, a front, and a left and right rear, but on my car, the drivers side cable looks like it runs the whole span of the car. Edited November 3, 2014 by cutlasssupremepizza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 There is one cable that goes from the E-brake pedal to the adjuster part around the drivers side wheel and then I believe it splits somewhere from there to go to either rear wheel. If the plastic jacket is damaged you might as well replace the cable as corrosion will set in and either break the cable or make it seize up inside the jacket. I don't know how hard it is to change it but I can type out the procedure from the manual. IIRC yours is a 1994 CS right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlasssupremepizza Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 The cables split in front of the drivers side trailing arm. That's where the adjuster is. Sent from my iPhone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlasssupremepizza Posted November 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 Well I got one side all together, minus the caliper, and the damn alignment is off, way off. The top of the wheel sticks in while the bottom sticks out. This is how it was when the old strut was broken. However the latteral arms are not bent, and neither does nothing else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 I`d take it to an alignment shop, some guys here can do it themselves but a shop has the better equipment and more knowledge. Then you can ask where the alignment was thrown off. Sounds like the Lat. Links are pushing the wheels out at the bottom. Just a little bit can aid in cornering, to much gets you pulled over by the cops and laughed at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted November 9, 2014 Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 (edited) Well I got one side all together, minus the caliper, and the damn alignment is off, way off. The top of the wheel sticks in while the bottom sticks out. This is how it was when the old strut was broken. However the latteral arms are not bent, and neither does nothing else. So you have a positive camber issue? If you used the KYB's (like I did), the way to resolve positive camber is to loosely tighten the top and bottom strut to knuckle bolts. Install the brake rotors backwards, and use the lugnuts to hold the backwards brake rotor on. Use your floor jack to jack up the brake rotor that's been held securely on with lugnuts, until the bottom strut to knuckle bolt reaches the desired (ie: usually maximum) deflection. Tighten both strut to knuckle bolts to the prescribed torque (check the service manual, I think its 134 ft-pounds.). Let the jack down, and continue reassembly as normal. Edited November 9, 2014 by pitzel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitzel Posted November 9, 2014 Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 Mind posting a picture, BTW, of what yours looks like? For me, it was positive camber (and too much of it) that was the issue, not negative camber as your description might suggest. Also your new struts, do they have holes exactly the same as your old ones, or are they elongated/oblong/elliptical? It is possible that something is bent/whacked/messed up. The official way of changing camber is to effectively grind the holes larger on the strut, and even on the stabilizer bar part as necessary. Something that should be keen to be avoided unless you're really sure you know what you're doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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