milvolts Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Has anyone changed rear brake lines on a 99 Buick Regal. The coiled line on the leaft rear over the crossmember has a pin size hole. Very rusted. Any imput as to how to go about this fox would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 To be straight forward... if one has to ask as to how to go about repairing brake line problems, then please go to a qualified shop & spend the money, I (and I'm sure others here in the know) don't want to offer advise & find out later that said individual suffered injury because of an incorrectly done repair job after conversing with us. You might still be able to purchase the needed section from a GM dealer (the rear lines are in sections) saving yourself a bit of money but get the installation done professionally or at the VERY least someone who is quite comfortable doing this sort of work (and has the needed special tools). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass350 Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 (edited) Imho, replacing brake lines isn't that hard when a person has the right tools and info. Imho, the vast majority of people still bleed brakes improperly. They scare me more. Imho, if someone is too cheap/foolish not to use at least a cheap pressure bleeder (~$80 for the Motive unit), then they shouldn't be bleeding brakes. Stuff needed: 1) Motive pressure bleeder with the correct MC adapter. 2) Good quailty flare wrenches are required. 3) If doing any custom flares, then a good/decent flaring tools (~$50-$100) is required. Do a number of tests on spare brake line. After 10-60mins, it should be easy. If needed, get a top notch unit like the Eastwood hydraulic unit. That has a very easy/quick learning curve. Imho, even with the cost of buying the proper tools the first time, it's often still cheaper than many shops. Plus, the owner might do a better job than many shops (in routing and securing the brake lines). Fwiw, if GM still offers the brake line, then that's the method that I suggest. It costs a lot more. But, it saves a lot of time and the the quailty of the brake line sections you buy at the parts store, imho, sucks. Good Luck! Edited October 19, 2014 by Cutlass350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbograndprix Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 in the past I have just run a new line from the driver side rear over the member and into the rubber hose line. which is probably going to be a pain to get off so just buy a new rubber line. the only way to do it like factory is to drop the rear sub frame. but maybe I am wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cutlasssupremepizza Posted November 8, 2014 Report Share Posted November 8, 2014 , if someone is too cheap/foolish not to use at least a cheap pressure bleeder (~$80 for the Motive unit), then they shouldn't be bleeding brakes./QUOTE] Lol. My dad has bled brakes the "old fashioned way" since the 50's. Never once had any issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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