99 regal brake line damaged

[milvolts]

Has anyone changed rear brake lines on a 99 Buick Regal. The coiled line on the leaft rear over the crossmember has a pin size hole. Very rusted. Any imput as to how to go about this fox would be greatly appreciated.

[55trucker]

To be straight forward...

 

if one has to ask as to how to go about repairing brake line problems, then please go to a qualified shop & spend the money, I (and I'm sure others here in the know) don't want to offer advise & find out later that said individual suffered injury because of an incorrectly done repair job after conversing with us.

 

You might still be able to purchase the needed section from a GM dealer (the rear lines are in sections) saving yourself a bit of money but get the installation done professionally or at the VERY least someone who is quite comfortable doing this sort of work (and has the needed special tools).

[Cutlass350]

Imho, replacing brake lines isn't that hard when a person has the right tools and info.

Imho, the vast majority of people still bleed brakes improperly. They scare me more. Imho, if someone is too cheap/foolish not to use at least a cheap pressure bleeder (~$80 for the Motive unit), then they shouldn't be bleeding brakes.

 

Stuff needed:

1) Motive pressure bleeder with the correct MC adapter.

2) Good quailty flare wrenches are required.

3) If doing any custom flares, then a good/decent flaring tools (~$50-$100) is required. Do a number of tests on spare brake line. After 10-60mins, it should be easy.

If needed, get a top notch unit like the Eastwood hydraulic unit. That has a very easy/quick learning curve.

 

Imho, even with the cost of buying the proper tools the first time, it's often still cheaper than many shops. Plus, the owner might do a better job than many shops (in routing and securing the brake lines).

 

 

Fwiw, if GM still offers the brake line, then that's the method that I suggest. It costs a lot more. But, it saves a lot of time and the the quailty of the brake line sections you buy at the parts store, imho, sucks.

 

Good Luck!

Edited October 19, 2014 by Cutlass350

[turbograndprix]

in the past I have just run a new line from the driver side rear over the member and into the rubber hose line. which is probably going to be a pain to get off so just buy a new rubber line. the only way to do it like factory is to drop the rear sub frame. but maybe I am wrong.

[cutlasssupremepizza]

, if someone is too cheap/foolish not to use at least a cheap pressure bleeder (~$80 for the Motive unit), then they shouldn't be bleeding brakes./QUOTE]

 

Lol. My dad has bled brakes the "old fashioned way" since the 50's. Never once had any issue.