1993 olds cutty 3.4L v6 dohc intake manifold leak

[trekking36]

hi all,

 

does anyone know of a video showing the process to replace the intake manifold gaskets. i have a leak and want to brush up on what is required before i start. i have a manual but a video would help. thanks

[tsilney]

Never seen one for the lq1.but its super easy..probably 30min job total..follow manual its all you need...change your plugs while you have access to the.rears as.well when.you do it.

 

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[Psych0matt]

It's pretty straightforward, just get all the crap out of the way like the cover and the airbox and whatnot, and it's basically just taking bolts off. I did mine on the GTP a few years ago and don't recall having any issues

[Nas Escobar]

There's a how to on this forum... Its a very straightforward job, but it helps if you disconnect the fuel lines and that you take note of an o ring that goes towards the end of the plenum. The how to doesn't mention it and mine leaked from there until I figured it out.

 

Its really a straightforward job, take bolts off, take off the airbox and accordion, swap out gaskets, smear a very thin coat of rtv if you want before applying gaskets and reassemble.

[Schurkey]

NO RTV SILICONE on gaskets. That only helps them to slide out-of-place.

 

If you MUST use a gasket adhesive--and there's nothing in this job that requires it--use any of the multitude of actual gasket adhesives such as Gasgacinch, Copper Coat, High Tack, Indian Head, Permatex 1, 2, or 3, etc. NOT RTV SILICONE.

[brian.burcham@gmail.com]

I am in the same boat. I have searched online and have not found any videos for the DOHC motor.

[Nas Escobar]

I am in the same boat. I have searched online and have not found any videos for the DOHC motor.

The forum has the how to... All you have to do is Google how to lim gasket dohc and its the 4th result.

 

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/37752-how-to-replace-a-lower-intake-gasket-on-a-3-4-dohc

[LA1]

have you tried youtube ?

[GnatGoSplat]

I'm in the same boat. Again. FPR went bad, but now that I've pulled the plenum, I can see my LIMG is definitely leaking coolant again at the back after just 2 short years. This will be the 3rd time in 12yrs. First 2 times I used Fel-Pro. The first Fel-Pro lasted 9yrs. For some reason, the current one lasted just under 2yrs.

 

Thinking about going with a different brand this time. Victor Reinz is about the same price (~$17). Never heard of it before, but Google searched it and many people think their gaskets in general are better than Fel-Pro.

For $21, I can get New Old Stock genuine GM gaskets with a date of 2006 on it. Were they better/redesigned by then? The rubber seal parts are brown, not blue like the pics of their current sets.

 

Thoughts?

 

NO RTV SILICONE on gaskets. That only helps them to slide out-of-place.

 

If you MUST use a gasket adhesive--and there's nothing in this job that requires it--use any of the multitude of actual gasket adhesives such as Gasgacinch, Copper Coat, High Tack, Indian Head, Permatex 1, 2, or 3, etc. NOT RTV SILICONE.

 

I had actually considered possibly just using a super light coat of RTV on the mating surfaces, smearing it on with my finger. Reason being that RTV actually sticks to the metal, and might prevent a future leak as the rubber gasket itself shrinks and doesn't expand. Think that would be a really bad idea and cause it to slip around?

[Schurkey]

I'm in the same boat. Again. FPR went bad, but now that I've pulled the plenum, I can see my LIMG is definitely leaking coolant again at the back after just 2 short years. This will be the 3rd time in 12yrs. First 2 times I used Fel-Pro. The first Fel-Pro lasted 9yrs. For some reason, the current one lasted just under 2yrs.

 

Thinking about going with a different brand this time. Victor Reinz is about the same price (~$17). Never heard of it before, but Google searched it and many people think their gaskets in general are better than Fel-Pro.

For $21, I can get New Old Stock genuine GM gaskets with a date of 2006 on it. Were they better/redesigned by then? The rubber seal parts are brown, not blue like the pics of their current sets.

 

Thoughts?

Have you checked the head surface for defects and flatness? Have you checked the manifold surface for defects and flatness? Rad cap allowing cooling-system over-pressurization? Thermostat and fans/sensors providing proper engine temperature?

 

First Guess: The gaskets are not the problem. You haven't found the real problem yet. Any of the gaskets you list would work just fine.

 

 

I had actually considered possibly just using a super light coat of RTV on the mating surfaces, smearing it on with my finger. Reason being that RTV actually sticks to the metal, and might prevent a future leak as the rubber gasket itself shrinks and doesn't expand. Think that would be a really bad idea and cause it to slip around?

Why are you gluing silicone rubber to metal with more silicone?

 

The whole purpose of the molded silicone lips on the gasket carrier is to ALLOW movement between the head and the manifold, without breaking the seal holding the coolant, or the fuel/air charge.

 

Check your parts for flatness, scoring, corrosion, etc. Repair as needed. Torque the bolts per service manual spec. Done.

[GnatGoSplat]

Have you checked the head surface for defects and flatness? Have you checked the manifold surface for defects and flatness? Rad cap allowing cooling-system over-pressurization? Thermostat and fans/sensors providing proper engine temperature?

 

First Guess: The gaskets are not the problem. You haven't found the real problem yet. Any of the gaskets you list would work just fine.

 

I did check the surfaces for defects in the past, but I will get another opportunity to check them again soon.

Cooling system tester is actually something I don't have. Maybe I should buy one, or just buy a new rad cap.

T-stat and engine temps are always fine, it's never over-heated.

 

Why are you gluing silicone rubber to metal with more silicone?

 

The whole purpose of the molded silicone lips on the gasket carrier is to ALLOW movement between the head and the manifold, without breaking the seal holding the coolant, or the fuel/air charge.

 

Check your parts for flatness, scoring, corrosion, etc. Repair as needed. Torque the bolts per service manual spec. Done.

 

If it's that bad of an idea, I'll definitely forego it.

I suppose if it only lasts 2yrs again, that'll be okay as we shouldn't still have the car in 2yrs. Wife will probably kill me if we do.

[GnatGoSplat]

Pulled the LIM today. Saw there is standing oil on both sides of the oil distribution cover. None around the oil pump drive and there is a raised ridge anyway, so I know that oil didn't come from that.

It's possible the LIM leaked oil because there are 2 oil passages going through it, and if that leaked, it would likely drip onto a ridge so it could find its way into the valley. However, the entire oil distribution cover is greasy, so I'd guess that's where that standing oil came from. I guess I'm needing that gasket too. Looks like a GM-only thing, or at least I can't find anyplace that lists anything like that. Sucks, because now I can't work on it for at least week till the gasket gets here from wherever (haven't found a source yet). It's GM part #24506744.

Is ordering the GM gasket the only way?

Edited November 9, 2014 by GnatGoSplat

[Twinpilot001]

From my personal experience- i use an "Permatex-Aviation sealer" on my intake gaskets-that stuff is nasty -yet it seals when no other will seal or last a long time . once done I never have any leak again!! U can even use it on carb gaskets -fuel wont take it off!! Stays pliable too. Carb / brake cleaner will remove it!!