urbex Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 My Lumina originally came with the 15" steel wheels and hubcaps, but about 1-2 years ago I decided to put on a set of the 16" alloy sawblade style wheels that were standard on the Lumina LS. Ever since I've had a problem with the lug nuts backing off shortly after torquing them down. I know you're supposed to check them after so many miles to make sure they're still tight, but I'm having issues ranging from only 4-5 miles down the road, or sometimes I can get 25-30 miles before I start hearing the wheel making noise and wobbling like it's going to come flying off. As far as I know the torque spec is still the same, 100ft lbs, and I'm using a torque wrench. My first thought was maybe my wrench was wearing out since it's just a cheap one from Autozone, but I took it to work and compared it with the Snap on one we have and it was the same. When I originally switched wheels I checked with the dealer and supposedly the part number for the lug nuts are the same for either the alloy wheel or the steelies, so those shouldn't be an issue. Anyone have any ideas as to what I should do? Another thing I should mention (although I don't really think it's the issue) is that the studs don't seem to stick out as far through these wheels as the steelies. I can still get probably 7-8 rotations on the lug nut before it's tight, so I'd think that's sufficient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhildebrand Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 100 ft lbs is correct for the aluminum wheels. Can you notice any wear on the threads? If that is the case, I would try some new lug nuts. The length of the studs should be okay, as you don't specify the rims when buying new wheel hubs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I have not noticed any wear on the threads. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to throw some new lug nuts on… I mean they're 15 years old and kind of rusty. If anything, at least they shouldn't keep getting stuck in my socket! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carkhz316 Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Are you using any kind of anti-sieze or oil on the threads? That may be a cause. Otherwise, I'm at a loss. The last time I looked up a spec for one of my W's it showed on All-Data as being 104-108, so I set my wrench to 105, and it's never been a problem. I hope you figure it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Nope, no anti-seize or anything. Maybe I should start using Loc-tite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 i've used everything from spray silicone to the heaviest grease i could obtain and once properly torqued, i've never had a lugnut back off on me. is it all of the nuts? i imagine it has to be for the wheel to start doing the death wobble. and is it all 4 wheels doing it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Are you absolutely sure the flare of the lugnut is correct for the aluminum wheel? Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 ....... there are flares other than 60* used on any w-body wheel? i've never seen anything other than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 I keep sneaking out at night over to your apartment and loosening them I've never really used a torque wrench to "properly" torque lugs down (save for once or twice so I knew what about 100lbs felt like) and I've never had anything come loose either I'd try some new nuts and see what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 The only time I have ever heard of a lugnut backing off needed new studs as the thread was worn out on them, But you couldn't tell by just looking at them. With new studs even the older lugnuts held them snug. Car was a Z24. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Yep, all the nuts do it. The problem does seem to be with the fronts more than the rears, but I hardly ever have to remove the rears either.... most of the time I have just the fronts off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 If the wheels have wobbled on the hubs, the aluminum machining is probably ruined where the lugs ride, and where the wheel would center on the hub. You need careful inspection of the wheels, careful inspection of the hubs including the lug studs, and almost certainly new lug nuts. Do the wheels have the correct offset/backspacing for the vehicle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urbex Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) Come to think of it, the drivers side hub has been replaced, so those studs are new(er). I just find it odd that after I re-torque them, they stay just fine. I can drive a few thousand miles and they don't back off again. I don't have the car here, it's at my grandpa's right now. Next time I get over there I'll have to take a look at everything, and I'll plan on getting some lug nuts anyways for good measure. It's not like the car has been driven on for extended periods with a wobbling wheel. Any time I've heard it starting to make a noise I've been able to stop and tighten them. Most of the time I can retorque them down before it's ever an issue. As far as offset and whatnot, as far as I know everything is the same between the Lumina LS and base model in that regard. I've never found anything that says different. Edited September 9, 2014 by urbex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.