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OK - One Last Screw


Olds Dad

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Trying to replace the driver's side door handle on my '92 and there's one more screw that is hidden behind the belt line molding along the top of the door - how is this molding held in place? I know there's one screw from the inside of the door handle area (removed that) - but this one needs to be accessed from where the molding is - Is this double sided taped on? screwed? clipped? - I hate forcing this stuff because I don't want to break anything - any advice??

 

Thanks

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I just put a driver side exterior handle on a day or so ago and cannot recall a hidden screw.

 

After I removed the cover(2x self tapping nuts and a single Philips screw) there is a single TORX bolt that holds the lock cylinder and bracket in place and a single tiny Philips head screw removed from the same area. Anything else holding it, the old handle is either jammed or adhesive in. Work it back and forth and it should come out. I got today off so if you need pics I can do that.

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I just put a driver side exterior handle on a day or so ago and cannot recall a hidden screw.

 

After I removed the cover(2x self tapping nuts and a single Philips screw) there is a single TORX bolt that holds the lock cylinder and bracket in place and a single tiny Philips head screw removed from the same area. Anything else holding it, the old handle is either jammed or adhesive in. Work it back and forth and it should come out. I got today off so if you need pics I can do that.

 

It's funny you say that - I can actually see the screw behind the belt line, but the replacement handle I have in my hands does not have a hole in the same place - I wonder if the convertibles only had this extra one? I'll have to post a picture.

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Them convertibles always have to just a bit extra special:lol: Does it appear the screw was added by a previous owner or shop or do you think its factory?

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Them convertibles always have to just a bit extra special:lol: Does it appear the screw was added by a previous owner or shop or do you think its factory?

 

definitely looks factory

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I took a few pics, I had the cover off already.

 

These are the only two screws inside the door handle for the coupes. The one on top holds the lock cylinder and bracket, the other one hold the handle to the door. If you already have these out and you see another then it must be Vert specific.

 

 

Two days and 5 openings of the new handle and this sets in.

 

That gouge just above the weight(I call it a weight because I don't know what other purpose it could serve) happens when the sharp edge of the brass piece digs into the lever, the more it digs in the more force it takes to open the door. More force= eventual broken handle. I`d like to engineer a wheel of sorts that will make the actual contact instead of this sliding motion.

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Under the plastic trim there should be a small black screw as I recall, but I haven't had to replace a handle in a few years now. I dont remember anymore.

 

Ha - yes...that's what I'm asking - do you remember how that plastic trim comes off? I see the screw, but I'm afraid to break the trim -

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Huh? Is that your factory handle that originally had the hole? The factory handles never had "China" on the back of them. Im am also a bit curious as to where the handle broke at, I have a theory. If they just made the dam things out of steel or aircraft quality aluminum then they wouldn't be so feeble. They are unique but that is so insignificant to the fact they are so crappy. The overpaid team at GM must have been drunk the morning it was decided to use this design.

 

Round that brass part off or you will be pissed when it starts digging into the handle lever, sandpaper isn't good enough I have since found, a Dremel tool or similar works best. I think the problem is the brass part(I am assuming its brass) is of a harder material than the lever itself. I would like to know what company is responsible for importing/manufacturing these parts so I can bring some of these issues up, maybe they will change something.

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Huh? Is that your factory handle that originally had the hole? The factory handles never had "China" on the back of them. Im am also a bit curious as to where the handle broke at, I have a theory. If they just made the dam things out of steel or aircraft quality aluminum then they wouldn't be so feeble. They are unique but that is so insignificant to the fact they are so crappy. The overpaid team at GM must have been drunk the morning it was decided to use this design.

 

Round that brass part off or you will be pissed when it starts digging into the handle lever, sandpaper isn't good enough I have since found, a Dremel tool or similar works best. I think the problem is the brass part(I am assuming its brass) is of a harder material than the lever itself. I would like to know what company is responsible for importing/manufacturing these parts so I can bring some of these issues up, maybe they will change something.

 

The one I took off has a GM part number on it - and the screw hole had the elastomer sealant in it that most of the other exterior trim screws have -

 

As to the broken part, the cast metal base of the handle broke off just 'behind' the opening. Like you said, if this was steel instead of cast metal, nobody would be replacing these

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Thread derail time!!

 

Where do you guys get the acorn nuts? I can't use the ones that were on the ccar.... they don't thread onto my dorman one.

Ride the Crazy Train to the very end:dance:

The ones I got look nothing like the chubby looking things that came from factory. The best ones I found to use look like a washer with a 10mm or 1/2" hex "pressed" into it. Those black things are brittle and crap, the new ones are best put on with a socket as they will dig into the studs of the new handle.

 

At Lowes IIRC they called the self threading nuts and were like $2 for a bag of them. Found in the hardware section with all the nuts, bolts washers, etc. Take your handle in and find the ones that fit the best.

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Thread derail time!!

 

Where do you guys get the acorn nuts? I can't use the ones that were on the ccar.... they don't thread onto my dorman one.

 

Uh oh...I'm going to be at that point tonight (had to take my lock cylinder to a locksmith - wasn't working with my key) - I'll be putting together tonight - hope I don't have the same problem.

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It might just need some wd-40 or similar sprayed in it, they build up a lot of crud in there. Every now and then I spray that and run the key in and out several times until whatever is running out starts to clear up. I have seen replacement cylinders for sale at AutoZone's website but Im not sure how much. They might even have replacement hardware at autoparts stores as well. Don't throw the hands up yet your almost there.

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It might just need some wd-40 or similar sprayed in it, they build up a lot of crud in there. Every now and then I spray that and run the key in and out several times until whatever is running out starts to clear up. I have seen replacement cylinders for sale at AutoZone's website but Im not sure how much. They might even have replacement hardware at autoparts stores as well. Don't throw the hands up yet your almost there.

 

Have a great locksmith in town - she put it all back together for $10 - one of the tumblers was cracked apparently. Hopefully will put it all back together tonight.

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I finally got brave, pulled that molding back as far as I dared, and got a small screwdriver in enough to get that pesky screw out! I just knew I would break the molding, but didn't!

I still have not taken the time t]o find out why mine is not opening from the outside, it looks like it's going down enough, but isn't. Someone said the cylinder might be catching, I will check that.

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Got it done - was lucky and the acorn nuts fit my replacement (I threaded them on first so the threads were already cut once the piece was back in place) - stupid little "nub" that retains the door moulding at the end broke off but I'll put some double tape in there and it should be fine.

 

Nice to be able to open the driver's door again!

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I know exactly what you are talking about and no you are not crazy. When I had to replace my original driver side door handle it had that pesky EXTRA SCREW.

 

I was unable to get the EXTRA SCREW out without removing the door trim piece.

 

Removing the door trim piece:

Remove inner door panel, remove mirror, pry up on metal clips that hold door trim in place (inside of door).

After market door handles don't have the extra hole.

 

And yes, I had to do mine the hard way.

Glad you got it!!!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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