l67ss's l67 swap into 1/1.5 gen w thread

[l67ss]

ok before anyone says anything, imp558 said hed help repost pics.

 

 

 

first thing thing first, parts needed-

98-99 z34/ltz engine harness

98-99 z34/ltz dp

98-99 z34/ltz radiator hoses

 

if using 96-98 l67 use 98 z34 heater hoses

 

if using 99+ l67 use 99-02 gp gt heater hoses

 

if using a stock l67/hd trans setup, use 98 gtp pcm for 96-98 l67 and use a 99 gtp pcm for 99+ l67

 

you can use the inner stubs from the donor car to make hybrid cv axles out of ur stock cvs

 

and obviously you need an l67 and 4t65 trans

[l67ss]

ok before anyone says anything, imp558 said hed help repost pics.

 

 

 

first thing thing first, parts needed-

98-99 z34/ltz engine harness

98-99 z34/ltz dp

98-99 z34/ltz radiator hoses

 

if using 96-98 l67 use 98 z34 heater hoses

 

if using 99+ l67 use 99-02 gp gt heater hoses

 

if using a stock l67/hd trans setup, use 98 gtp pcm for 96-98 l67 and use a 99 gtp pcm for 99+ l67

 

you can use the inner stubs from the donor car to make hybrid cv axles out of ur stock cvs

 

and obviously you need an l67 and 4t65 trans

 

one other thing you need i forgot-98-99 z34/ltz power steering hoses

[l67ss]

one other thing you need i forgot-98-99 z34/ltz power steering hoses

 

also 98-99 z34/ltz ac hoses and trans lines

[l67ss]

before i jump into the tech stuff im gonna do explanation, clarification etc etc of the swap and related parts.

most of the current l67 swap threads are based from l67 swaps done 10 yrs ago.......basically more new parts and info has surfaced.

 

 

you DONT need zzps "l67 swap wire harness kit". it is just to hook up the bbv solenoid(which you dont need) and the map sensor(all you need is the map plug from an l67 and a lil wire and splice it in, same color codes)

if youre gonna mod it anyways id go with a 4t65 from an l36 gp. more available, can use off the shelf 98-99 z34 cv axles, plus it has a better gear ratio than the l67s hd(l36=3.29 compared to the hds 2.93). allows for better launches and helps fight kr-less load plus higher air velosity in/out of engine at a given mph. and the hd isnt much tougher than the non hd version-same clutches, front pump, solenoids. only dif is the tq converter and well the dif. truth be told an hd will only survive ONE more launch than a non hd.

 

go ahead and buy aluminum intake gaskets and alloy coolqant elbows-a case of not if but when the stockers are gonna fail.

 

reseal the valve covers before installation-same issue as above^

 

ok now onto "why do i wanna swap, my 3x00, l36 etc already makes around 200 hp, 240 hp isnt that much of a jump"

its not about peak hp, its about a smooth hp curve that starts low in the rpms and a fat tq curve. off idle an l67 is already making close to the same hp as an lq1 makes at a peak of 5200 rpms(i think i have the rpm s right lol) which means that measly 40 hp bump feels and performs like a whole helluva lot more.

parts for just about any setup for a 3800 are VERY plentiful.

any mod to these motors are clearly felt

 

now onto what should i pay for a complete setup.

i have $500 in everything under my hood but im a crafty haggling sob lol. realistically expect $800- $1000 for a COMPLETE setup. if they try to ask more it better only have like 20k miles, and be able to b test driven before purchase. otherwise tell them to kick rocks.

try to avoid "premodded l67s, people are dillholes that do some stupid stuff when it comes to performance. you might luck out and buy from a supergenius who built it perfect but likely itll b some dumbass that may not even know hes selling you a timebomb.

 

as to the question i here about whether the supercharger will clear the hood, when i did my swap i set my old 3400 and my current l67 side by side on their pans, nearly identical height. the 3800 is just packed MUCH better. easier to work on too.

[l67ss]

ok first step- block rear wheels securely and raise the front of the car on STURDY jackstands high enough that you can get to everything under the car.

step 2-unhook battery and let the engine COMPLETELY cool, mebbe go ahead and drain the oil

step 3-after the engine is COMPLETELY cooled down, relieve the fuel pressure, unhook fuel line and drain the antifreeze

step 4-take the big nuts off the cv axles-34mm

step 5-remove brakes and wire calipers to the strut so they dont hang from the brake lines

step 6-unbolt the hub from the spindle(4 15mm bolt)pop the hub loose from cv and remove from car

step 7-pop cv loose from the trans and remove from car

step 8-unhook wiring. id leave the original harness plugged to the engine and just unhook the c100 plug(where it hook to the firewall) and unhook plug where it ties into the wiring on the d side. follow the harness and unhook it from the clips that hold it to the car.

step 9-remove trans lines, ac hoses, and radiator hoses

step 10-unbolt/cut the downpipetrans

step 11-unbolt dogbone mounts

step 12-unbolt trans mount and lower engine mount

step 13-unhook shift cable and heater core hoses

step 14-attach a STRONG chain SECURELY across the engine, hook to engine hoist of choice and yank that mofo out

would suggest at this point to clean the hell outta the engine bay