Cruise control is inop--and the anti-lock brake lamp is on---

[biggyfries]

So is there a connection? I just got this car recently, its a 94 Cutlass Supreme convert. with 3.4l, loaded. The brake lamp was on when I bought it and now I find the Cruise doesn't work--I heard there may be a connection between these two items?

[Nas Escobar]

The connection is that if the brake lights are on even if you're not pressing the pedal, the brake switch is bad and you have to change it. If you haven't messed with that switch then it has to be replaced. It's near the brake pedal. It gets activated when you press down the pedal.

[Schurkey]

I read the first post to mean the anti-lock warning light on the dash is lit, not the "brake lights" at the rear of the vehicle.

[rich_e777]

Red "Brake" light or amber "Anti-Lock Brake" light? Regardless your ABS system will be disabled while your DTC code is still set. ABS WILL BE DISABLED so be careful driving if you are going to get it scanned somewhere.

 

A release switch assembly and a stoplamp switch assembly mounted on the brake pedal bracket assembly disengage the system electronically when the brake pedal is depressed.

 

So a brake switch could be your issue or it could be the switch above that, Heres the fun part, getting your head oriented in a way where you are looking up the brake pedal just to see the switch. It might be just out of adjustment but either way there is no bolts holding it in, it clicks into and out of place. Both the stoplamp switch and I guess its the Cruise control release switch is above that, I remember seeing another one above mine a few days ago.

 

To adjust both,1. press the brake pedal down and insert both switches into brake pedal bracket until seated completly(Or push both in all the way assuming nothing is being replaced) 2 Slowly release the pedal back into its fully retracted position and both switches will move into their "adjusted" positions in the bracket.

[biggyfries]

Suddenly I realize I need to be more precise with my words! On the gage cluster there is an amber anti-lock brake symbol that is illuminated--it was on when I bought the car. I have been fixing a few things like the driver's door handle and now that its fixed I have been driving it around a bit, and just now I found I have no brake lamps! I have rear lamps with the headlight switch on, but no brake lamps in the rear at all. I have only left turn sig's, right side go on but don't blink, I think that's a burned out bulb somewhere, right? Sounds like my brake lamp switch is inop?

The kid who drove this car for the last couple of years habitually set the park brake with a stomp every time he parked the car. The e-brake seems to work, it sets and releases properly but it has a worn-out pedal cover and has seen lots of ham-handed use.

I sure appreciate the advice I'm getting. I am no expert but I used to think I knew something about cars (in the 60's).

[Nas Escobar]

Have you checked your fuses? You can render your stop lights inoperable if the fuse is blown, which it might be considering that you have a burnt bulb on the right side. I can't tell you what bulb is burnt, because it could easily be the front or one of the 2 in the back. I can tell you that you need to see whether or not both bulbs light up on the rear. They're easy to take out, just lift the carpet and reach behind the tail light, it simply twists out. The bad bulb usually looks burnt anyways, but not always the case. If not that, the front inner bulb may be bad. That one, you have to unscrew the housing to get. Check the side bulbs as well (turn signal and side marker). They're small enough that they don't cause the light to stay on but if you have one burnt bulb, you may have more.

 

The pedal cover is an easy fix. It's a Dorman "help" product, or you can get it at a yard from any foot operated GM car.

 

If you have good fuses, and good lights, and you still don't have brake lights in the back, refer to my 1st post. Although Rich_e777 has a point as well, you may be able to get away with just adjusting the switches under the pedal.

[rich_e777]

I found that the metal underneath the rubber/plastic part of the pedal is more durable.

 

If replacing bulbs I have the Silverstar Ultras(sort of blue tint to glass) in all brake and reverse lights as well as the two front inner turn signals, they are significantly brighter than regular Silverstars.

 

Check stuff before replacing stuff.

[biggyfries]

I will deal with the pedal cover last of all--no problem, but I am going thru the bulbs, fuses, brake light switch, and so far everything checks out good. I even looked at the chimsl bulbs--they're good too. All fuses look good, but I replaced the turn signal and brake lamp fuse just to eliminate that possibility--I'm sure they're good.

In discussing this with a knowlegable friend, he wonders if ALL my issues might all be related--does all the functions of these systems go through the turn signal switch? The same friend tested the brake lamp switch under the dash by the pedal and it shows good contacts and proper adjustment, juice is getting thru--we're confident the brake lamp switch is functioning normally.

Here's something I just found--the turn signal switch (multi-function switch) has a bad button on the end, it has no spring to it and fits crooked. I never noticed it before. The turn signal handle is loose and rattly (shows some wear) and I know it is a complicated device that gets a lot of use--could that be the culprit? Are they hard to change? I imagine you'd get another one and change it out instead of trying to fix the old one, right?

[biggyfries]

I am now convinced ALL my problems are in the multi-function switch inside the steering column. In a couple of days the weather will be considerably cooler and I will tear into it then. I may need the stalk as well, we'll test it when the switch is changed.

I drove it down the hiway last night and it drives really well. It was a risk with no brake lamps but I live in an area with lots of open roads with little traffic--the drive went uneventfully. I am happy everything else (under the hood) seems so nice.

[biggyfries]

Here is the follow-up on my electrical problems: thanks to this forum I was led directly to the fault, which was the bad multi-function switch in the steering column. I read the detailed instruction on disassembly--otherwise I would have never gotten through it without help. I am an okay mechanic but there were a few things that I would have struggled with without the tutorial.

I bought the new part from Rock Auto and delivery time was quick. The price was good as well, at something like $60 shipped.

The installation went fairly easily and I had plenty of other repairs to make as well--the dash is entirely plastic, and not the good kind--its brittle and there were lots of broken parts (tabs, brackets) that had come adrift over the years, and I was able to fix them all--my dash area is now much quieter over rough pavement than before, I'm pleased.

I now have ALL my electrical issues fixed--stop lamps are restored, signals also restored, cruise control works again, and my anti-lock lamp went out--the pedal feels more solid too--is it my imagination? ALL problems were in that switch!

My car is now almost perfect, and that is saying a lot--I am critical about using the word 'perfect'--my car is getting close! Thanks for the valuable information.

The entire job including the plastic repairs was around eight hours. If I were to do the job over again, less the plastic repairs, I could do this job in under two hours--its really not hard after you've been through it once. First time through you must include time for head-scratching, re-reading the tutorial, etc. Here's a tip: you can get the lock-ring compressor at AutoZone, --after you return it they reimburse your card and it is free.

I recommend the home repairman to tackle this job--its not too hard at all. If I can do it, ANYONE can!

Edited August 24, 2014 by biggyfries