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trailing arm mounts 2nd gen


1990lumi

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$150 was all for labor! They cut everything out and rebuild the entire area. They welded all around the front and back of the mount and it looks like it'll never go anywhere.

I have 3 fingertips between the tire and front of the wheel well exactly on both sides so they got it lined up really nice too.

Behold the first 2nd gen trailing arm mount welded to a first gen!

I will get better pictures when I get it up in the air next time.

 

post-3252-0-26963500-1471556617_thumb.jpg

Edited by Imp558
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Nice to have that firmed up. I'll await pics to better understand where they went for good purchase.

At the annual oil spray I make sure this area gets well doused. And then spray it myself with a

rust proofer (rattle can) at regular intervals. 

 

Perhaps an obvious answer, but did they locate the mount by using the trailing arm while connected to the

spindle? 

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When they rot out there isn't much to weld to. This gives us a more durable repair option.

 

So the 2nd gen is wider than the 1st gen ones? I'm kinda confused, I thought when they rusted out, they would have to weld new metal on to the area and go from there.

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First gen mounts are hung from inside the structure of the car. Just the mount itself is visible so when the area rusts there isn't much to weld to for the repair.

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First gen mounts are hung from inside the structure of the car. Just the mount itself is visible so when the area rusts there isn't much to weld to for the repair.

Thanks, that's a bit clearer now and now evident when comparing your before and after pics.

So in some way the welder must reinforce the underbody to provide a firm, flat base for the external mounts.

And hopefully seal it from the elements too.

The original design is a real trap for water, salt & muck.

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Another advantage from what I could tell was that they are made from thicker metal. As my car is the oddball rust free w I was mainly looking at this idea to add rigidity. Thank you for actually testing it...who knows when I would have gotten around to it lol

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Another advantage from what I could tell was that they are made from thicker metal. As my car is the oddball rust free w I was mainly looking at this idea to add rigidity. Thank you for actually testing it...who knows when I would have gotten around to it lol

 

Both my Regal and Cutlass are rust free. My Z34 only had rust where the battery went.

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It was welded twice before and only lasted a while. again it wasn't fair because the roads are really awful here.

This seems to be a lot sturdier since there was more surface area to weld to.
The thing that scares me is that when it tore out the other times the bulk of it was up inside so it was still kind of there, now I feel like if it breaks it'll fall off and the wheel could fold back.

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 now I feel like if it breaks it'll fall off and the wheel could fold back.

True, but if the welding is solid, an annual visual inspection (mirror & pointed hammer) should reveal any corrosion.

Though I don't know the unibody construction at that juncture, is it possible to get access from above and spray

with a good anti-rust oil? Such as removing the rear seat?

 

I'll need to do this same job one day, so am glad to know about it. 

It's a wonder that Nas has rust free (older!) models.

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