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Bolts that holds on front caliper bracket for 97 Cutlass Coupe.


Mark 97 Cutlass Coupe

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Well I got the passenger side done today, and have a few words of advice. First, get a really good T-60, not, like someone mentioned, some piece of crap. Next, have at least a 3 foot "helper" bar to put on your breaker bar for some leverage. Pull your guts out, and at least in my case, it broke free. Then, here is the important part, buy new bolts. The new ones, besides not being 17 years old and full of shit, have a much deeper groove for the T-60 to fit in. The bit goes almost all the way in on the new bolt, which will make doing this again in the next few years much easier. The only downside is that they are expensive at almost $7.00 each (at NAPA) but they fit perfectly. Tomorrow, the driver side, which I hope goes as well as the passenger side did.

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As an FYI to everyone when dealing with Torx,something to watch out for nowadays is Torx Plus bits. It's hard to tell the difference looking at Torx and Torx Plus, but they are different. Torx Plus bolts are becoming very common on cars the last few years, so the sockets are becoming more common as well, but most people don't realize they are dealing with a different bolt, because normal Torx bits will usually work ok on Torx Plus bolts (they do have a higher tendency to round though). However, a Torx Plus bit pretty much doesn't go in a regular Torx bolt, and the security version of Torx Plus is actually a 5-cornered "star pattern" bit with the same hole in the middle, not 6-cornered like Torx, security Torx, and regular Torx Plus. There's other stuff out there as well, but the Torx/Torx plus is what can cause headaches because they look identical. The number of bit/socket types required on-hand as a mechanic nowadays is pretty ridiculous.

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ok so im going to have to buy some mapp and a new torch head because ik my torch head is propane only and well im at replacing the driver side i might as well take off and replace the passenger side as well thanks

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