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1994 Cutlass Supreme 4 Dr


derkach99

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I al now attempting on getting my fog light working in my car since I have never seen them work before. While finding out that my horn fuse blew I came across the fog light relay and I decided to check it out. When I flick the switch I hear the relay being thrown. :) Seeing that this portion of the fog light system works I am hoping that its just the bulbs that are burnt out all this time, probably for the past ten years. What I am wondering is how hard is it to change the bulbs as well as changing one of the fixtures? Are the fog lights on the 4 Dr models the same as the 2 Dr models? The glass lens on my driver side fixture is cracked. If that's all that is wrong with the fog lights ill be a happy camper. :) On that note how big is the difference with the fog lights being on as opposed to them being off or in my case broken? I am hoping that changing the bulbs in these are a lot easier then changing out headlight bulbs, what a mess that was.

 

Also does anyone have experience in using LED bulbs in the high mount center brake light? I don't want to spend $10 per bulb for the normal ones.

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The fog lights interchange between sedan, but sometimes the adjuster goes bad on them. To swap em is easy, just get under the car and turn the bulb, disconnect harness and reverse.

 

As far as the fogs actually on, not a real difference. More light in the fore ground but that's pretty much it.

 

Also, the T5 bulb is the same thing as the 921 bulb. You can get em a lot cheaper online or at Home Depot.

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is that how you remove the fixture?

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

 

Not the fixture, the 880 bulb that's in there. You mentioned both of them being burnt out.

 

To get off the fixture, it's 2 10mm bolts. Use a 1/4th one and use an extension. The one closer to the fender will be more tricky because the bumper shape won't allow the extension to go in, so you can simply use the socket and ratchet. You have to disconnect the clip from the bulb though so you can remove it completely. The bulb can stay in.

 

Be aware that the fixtures aren't bolted onto hard metal, but rather held in by u clips that look like this:

 

auto-part-65mn-spring-steel-u-clip-xdjp05.jpg

 

I broke mine off from the car because they became brittle over time. When I turned the bolt, the u clip bent and cracked. They sell these things at Lowes if you break them, and they attach to the 2 corners. Take pics of how it's attached before taking the bolts off if in case you need reference.

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Well today I popped in one new bulb and the fog light worked! However when I popped in the second bulb neither of them worked anymore, I suspect that I blew the fuse for the fog lights. when I replaced the bulbs I noticed that the old bulbs actually exploded in the fixture and therefore there is debris in both fixtures. I paid roughly $8 a bulb this seems to be a lot better deal than $10 a bulb for the center brake light.:/

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You may have a wiring problem. Would be a good idea to check the wiring that goes to the 2nd housing. I assume the faulty side is the one with the broken fixture?

 

Also, try doing this in reverse. Connect the bulb that popped the fuse first and see what happens. That way you can be sure it's that, since sometimes overloading can pop the fuse, though somewhat unlikely here, unless someone has done their own wiring.

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You may have a wiring problem. Would be a good idea to check the wiring that goes to the 2nd housing. I assume the faulty side is the one with the broken fixture?

 

Also, try doing this in reverse. Connect the bulb that popped the fuse first and see what happens. That way you can be sure it's that, since sometimes overloading can pop the fuse, though somewhat unlikely here, unless someone has done their own wiring.

 

Both fixtures are cracked.

 

 

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

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I don't think so... glass has been the defacto material of lights until composite headlights came to be.

 

Besides, glass housings are better, they don't burn up inside if the light heats up too much.

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Today I went under the car and I managed to take off the driver side fog light. It was a bit of a pain in the but to get it off but I managed to do it. I also took a volt meter and there is 11.7V going though the wire when the fog lights are on and and car not running. I don't understand why I blew the fuse when I added the light bulb on that side. Maybe bad luck or a weak cheap fuse? Below are some images of the fixture I took out as well parts of the old bulb in the fixture.

 

post-7950-143689161507_thumb.jpg

 

 

Below is pictures of the working fog light in action but it is not very bright. I am replacing this fixture as well. Note the cracks in the glass. There should be glass shards in this fixture as well.

post-7950-14368916145_thumb.jpg

post-7950-143689161467_thumb.jpg

post-7950-143689161482_thumb.jpg

post-7950-143689161494_thumb.jpg

Edited by derkach99
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I finally finished repairing the fog lights and they work pretty well. I managed to sheer one of the clips off but I will be replacing that soon, right now I got s piece of foam holding the fixture in place temporarily. I have ordered a nice set of bright LED bulbs that I will be installing soon.

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So why were they shorting out?

 

When I put in the second bulb the second time the lights did not work but after I fiddled with the switch both lights came on and they have been ever since. I guess initially it was just bad luck of a bad fuse.

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What kind of bulbs do you have in your fog lights?

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

 

I'm going to upgrade to 3000k HID in the near future, but right now I have a normal 880 Sylvania bulb. They're 35 watts AFAIK. I only have one though, I'm missing a housing.

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I'm going to upgrade to 3000k HID in the near future, but right now I have a normal 880 Sylvania bulb. They're 35 watts AFAIK. I only have one though, I'm missing a housing.

 

Doing some math 2X 55w bulbs uses about 9.1 AMPS in total and the fuse to the fog lights is rated at 10 AMPS therefore wouldn't the fuse blow before wires would fry?

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The fuse would blow if there's a short. The excessive draw is half and half. I put a 60 amp fuse on the charge wire that went to a 70 amp amplifier and the amplifier simply went into protect mode.

 

You could in theory melt the wires and not blow the fuse. I've done this before with my amp wire. I've actually burned (fused) the fuse onto the plastic that protects it and onto the gold plated connects.

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