DragonHEF01 Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Unless you're racing and should be using straight pipes, Always replace the resonator(s)/inline muffler(s) with the longest Thrush glass pack you can fit under. This will change the mid-range drone into a deep growl when using aftermarket performance mufflers(not as big a deal with OHV engines). Used with more restrictive OE type mufflers, it will be quieter @ cruise while still having a better growl when floored. Walker/Tenneco owns both Dynomax and Thrush. They were contracted to make the first "turbo" muffler for the '62-64 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Spyder. The Dynomax Super Turbo flows and sounds better(less "tin") using its flow directors than the Hush Thrush/Mad Red muffler, but usually costs $20 more. Yes, Thrush still has the original "turbo" design as well, but is more for sound effects(more "tin") and value because its below the Mad's construction. Speaking of sound effects, its been proven time and time again Flowmaster is for just that. I've used the Super 10s and Delta 50s, and they don't come close to the efficiency and tone(Flowmasters have a bit more "tin") of Dynomax, especially the Ultra Flo Wielded. But it all boils down to how you want your vehicle to sound(deep vs high), I've just given you more tools. For value and creativity, you can't beat Spectre Performance. The filters are as good as K&N and you can design the intake tube(s) however you want. Plastic sections are usually available at most auto parts, while the tougher aluminum bits are on the site and in the bigger stores. To the "cold air" users: ever notice most Hornet racers strap the filter directly to the throttle body? I use the shortest ram I can for throttle response. Synthetic oil(and some dino juice) is becoming even more durable nowadays, and does not need to be dumped at the first interval. Check your oil every other fuel stop on its condition. If you have a clean engine and the oil is still light brown and does not smell of fuel, you should be able to just change the filter and top off. It's recommended you don't try this more than three times. I use standard Royal Purple for the engine and ATF, Mobile 1 before that. NAPA Gold filters are the same 'glass type that Mobile 1, Bosch, K&N, etc. are and usually cost $3-5 less. Looking into Competition Cams Engine Additive so I don't have to switch to Royal Purple HPS to have zinc and more anti-wear additives. I've got a little over 103,000 and still under a bumper-to-bumper warranty...Warranty Direct that is(they will still go back to 1996). Saved my tail from its only major repair: water pump failure/blown head gasket with $0 deductible. Only problem was that my mechanic hadn't sent them the towing bill, so they thought I drove it there after the failure. This argument caused me not remember to ask the machinist if he could groove the head and will now cost me $780 to pull it back off since I don't have a garage or shop anymore. After this was resolved, never had another problem with them. Unlike the coverage(loop holes) I had with Diamond Warranty on the Z34. Last but not least, check pricing of all your stuff through Amazon, Ebay, Autoplicity(new), Rock Auto(new), and Car-Part(salvage) to make sure you're getting the best deals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 olds vert Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 You said the magic word Corvair. I like magnaflows with a long glaas pack or resonator on my Ws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 glasspacks/resonators only on a 60V6 is a tough sound to beat. Adam's setup still makes my legs tingle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DragonHEF01 Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 glasspacks/resonators only on a 60V6 is a tough sound to beat. Adam's setup still makes my legs tingle. Yep, like I said it's not as big a deal with an OHV engine. But it can be even more of a Booming growl with the my type using Ulra Flo SS or Wielded, softer with the Super Turbo. And use Thrush for the glass packs compared to Cherry Bomb. They're tougher and sound a little better, plus there's more lengths available. Good luck, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 So out of curiosity, what would be a good glass pack, or are all glasspacks the same? I know you stated the longest that will fit, but you didn't state whether to get a cherry bomb or if some other type of pack would work as well. (I'm not too familiar on glass packs so yeah). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 So out of curiosity, what would be a good glass pack, or are all glasspacks the same? I know you stated the longest that will fit, but you didn't state whether to get a cherry bomb or if some other type of pack would work as well. (I'm not too familiar on glass packs so yeah). I have a pair of 25" Thrush glass packs(one for each side,not yet installed). Got them for a buy one get one deal at AutoZone. About $30 a piece regular price I believe so still not to bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 assuming you have a drilled core glasspack and not a louvered core(i haven't seen one of those in a long time), they're not extremely different from each other the way chambered mufflers are. according to my notes, i'm running a single cherry bomb 87502, which is 3.5" Body, 2" diameter inlet/outlet and 26 7/16" length. i think it's great, it's been installed for just about 30K miles and 6 years, still doing its job as well as when i put it on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 So if I get a smaller glass pack, it wouldn't affect anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 define smaller? body diamater, inlet/outlet or length? they'll all have some effect on tone, but i don't think you'll find it very significant, not the way that two identical looking chambered mufflers can sound completely different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imp558 Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 I run a Thrush Turbo and a converter that I did the "Hunk of rebar and hammer" mod behind my L67, It's toned but not loud, honestly the next step for my exhaust should be headers and bigger pipes, I feel like I'm sluggish on the low end like there's a bunch of restriction. I used to run packs on the old Buicks but I was young then and it was more fun to be loud, no sleeping kids in the back seat then either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 assuming you have a drilled core glasspack and not a louvered core(i haven't seen one of those in a long time), they're not extremely different from each other the way chambered mufflers are. according to my notes, i'm running a single cherry bomb 87502, which is 3.5" Body, 2" diameter inlet/outlet and 26 7/16" length. i think it's great, it's been installed for just about 30K miles and 6 years, still doing its job as well as when i put it on. Where in the world did you fit a resonator 26 7/16" long on a W-body? I had a hard time fitting one with a 18" long body on mine (4" dia. Magnaflow p/n 10426) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 stock location. i cut off the old monster of a muffler and the glasspack fits nicely in its place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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