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Stock to KYB rear struts, positive camber


pitzel

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I swapped my 2 rear struts, from stock/factory units, to a pair of KYB SR4026's (the quick-struts). Both wheels seem to exhibit the same amount of positive camber.

 

Anyone else seen this? Is it something I should try to correct by removing the strut and filing down the hole?

 

edit: also installed those hockey-puck-like Moog K6544 spring pads for the monoleaf. If that makes a difference (which it might).

Edited by pitzel
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I swapped my 2 rear struts, from stock/factory units, to a pair of KYB SR4026's (the quick-struts). Both wheels seem to exhibit the same amount of positive camber.

 

Anyone else seen this? Is it something I should try to correct by removing the strut and filing down the hole?

 

edit: also installed those hockey-puck-like Moog K6544 spring pads for the monoleaf. If that makes a difference (which it might).

 

First off, the leaf pads can definitely make a difference. I know lowering makes for more negative camber, so raising it up is likely to make it positive. Second, its also possible the holes on the new struts differ from the old. Even a fraction of an inch can make quite a difference in camber angle. Thirdly, there might be some play in the holes. You could try and loosen up the nuts on the bolts, hold/hammer the knuckle inward and tighten back down, see if it makes a difference. Or as you said you could go to town with a grinder. Also remember to drive the car around the block to settle the suspension when making judgements. It'll be way positive when you lower off the jack.

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I put KYB's on my rear end as well, but left off the pads. There is a bit less camber as a result. My rear OEM struts were so bad, it is hard for me to tell if the pads would help or not. New struts made a huge difference.

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Okay, removed the new struts, compared to the old. Its pretty obvious that the holes, the bottom one at least, is in a slightly different location. So I am going to elongate the holes as described in the service manual and go from there to make the adjustments.

 

Argh, the upper heater core pipe rusted out too (the one that runs from the heater core, up above, through the wheel well, and finally to the water-pump housing on the engine. So lots of fun around here :). At least I was able to find the replacement, Dorman 626-100, easily enough :).

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Okay, I'm dumb. Turns out the KYB GR-2 quick struts (SR4026) were already elongated from the factory. So I was able to use a jack on the brake disc to, with the strut bolts loosened, move from the maximum positive camber, to the other end of the oblong slot.

 

Only problem is, the car still has some positive camber on both sides, although its an improvement.

 

Next thing I guess I can try is removing the hockey-pucks (Moog K6544's) and see if that improves. And putting 100-150 pounds of fuel into it (tank is near empty!).

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Okay, pulled the K6544's out. Camber is pretty much back to spec.

 

so I guess I'm doomed to positive camber if the pads go back in. Which I don't think I want. Guess I'll have to do the Dorman low-profile ones.

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