Psych0matt Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 So long story short, I did some spring maintenance to the GTP and have been wanting to get it out. Previous to any of this I wasn't showing any codes/CES light. I put the WOT tech chip in last week and whatnot, and it may or may not be related but I started throwing a code 15, which is: Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -37° F when the engine was running. So today I replaced the CTS as well as the Coolant level sensor (why not) and the pcv valve, but I'm still getting a CES. So I run the codes again and now I'm getting 15 Coolant temperature sensor signal indicates a temperature colder than -37° F when the engine was running. 23 Inlet air temperature sensor signal showed an air temperature of -31° F for 10 seconds after the engine has been running for 4 minutes. 33 MAP sensor signal voltage was too high (low vacuum) for 5 seconds when throttle opening was under 6%. Now I assume in tearing into things I may have popped a vacuum line loose or something, but I don't get why I'd throw a 23 out of nowhere. Anyways... help? Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 pull WOT-Tech chip out and put original back in, pull the ECM fuse in on the driver's side strut tower for a minute to clear memory, replace. now start the car and see if it throws those codes again since you'll now be at a more or less factory state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Yeah, I did forget to mention I'm gonna pull the chip back out this afternoon. I'll report bak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Ok, so apparently the 23 and 33 were just fluke things, after an ECM reset they didn't show back up, but 15 shows up with or without the chip. I had tunerpro open and it's showing -39.25 (so basically inop). Where do I go from here? As far as I can tell the wiring just goes up to the egr and that's it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 you have a harness or PCM issue then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 (edited) you have a harness or PCM issue then. hmmm... wwhat do? Edited May 21, 2014 by Psych0matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Any thoughts on where to start? I have a spare computer somewhere, I think, but its an auto if I do have it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 fuses are always an easy check, had at least two cars that started throwing random codes that were caused by blown fuses. Perhaps you've already checked and you don't get lucky often, however it never hurts, otherwise check connectors and wiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 would it be worth putting a new pigtail on (as in is it known to go bad at the connector), or should I be looking up further? I was thinking of getting a pigtail tomorrow and trying that but not if that's not a very likely culprit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Tomorrow I'm gonna see if I can undo the plug end and make sure it's solid, it should be pretty obvious one way or the other Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Is your car the LQ1? If you're attacking the coolant sensor, can you get pics for me? I need to swap mine out because my car's PCM thinks the engine is at -37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Any thoughts on where to start? I have a spare computer somewhere, I think, but its an auto if I do have it auto PCM will work just fine as long as you swap a manual MEMCAL into it. they should both be 16149396 part numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 auto PCM will work just fine as long as you swap a manual MEMCAL into it. they should both be 16149396 part numbers. I is smart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Is your car the LQ1? If you're attacking the coolant sensor, can you get pics for me? I need to swap mine out because my car's PCM thinks the engine is at -37 its pretty much right underneath the throttle body, has a two wire plug on it. And this is the same issue I'm having. It's reading -39.25 to be exact but basically it'll throw a 15 if it's under -37, which basically means it's not reading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hey Saar, it's a 94 PCM, will that make a difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Here's a pic for ya, the copper thing under and behind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Different pn Saar, this one is 16196401 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Here's a pic for ya, the copper thing under and behind Thanks very much! I thought it was further back from a diagram that Saar gave me when I made a thread about my SES. So what's the best course of action to get that sensor off? It seems pretty tight in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I was able to reach behind and just used a 3/8 ratchet and the not correct size socket I think it's like a 19, but I used a spark plug socket, and it was a little sloppy but worked fine (it was a 6 point, not a 12). Took me about 10 minutes, easier than I thought it'd be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Hey Saar, it's a 94 PCM, will that make a difference? Different pn Saar, this one is 16196401 DO NOT USE, WAY DIFFERENT. as in, if you plug it into your harness, you can potentially kill every sensor and PCM-driven item it's connected to along with the PCM itself. the pinout on it is WAY different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 This is why I ask and be lazy for a bit first ;lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 http://imgur.com/7iHutXy,g3FVsKE,D9MSpvX Saar, so if I unug the sensor and jumper the two leads together it should read 130c/266f? it will likely read at least that high.... i wouldn't be surprised if it hit the 304*F limit. Yeah, still reading -39.25. Break in the wiring? Or is it more likely PCM? And is there a way to test it other than grabbing another PCM? EDIT: "Jumper CKT410 to ground" What do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 connect a wire from the connector's yellow wire to a known good ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Just thought I should comment that I fixed mine. What a pain in the ass though. I had to replace that small hose between the plenum and coolant feed line as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted May 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 (edited) Open CKT410: Faulty connection at ECM, or faulty ECM. Now I have to figure out where to go next... EDIT: Hey Saar, is there a way I can rewire it by running two new wires to the ECM? at the very least for a temporary fix (or permanent if I can run them properly) Edited May 25, 2014 by Psych0matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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