BlkndGoldCutlass Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 Hello, ive got a 1993 cs with the 3.4l in it. I put it in storage last august and didnt touch it until last month. It ran fine other than a purge valve before I put it away. Before I took it out I did a purge valve, upper and lower intake, valve covers, egr, tps, iac, tranny flush and filter, alternator, and other small stuff. Now that I have it out and driving it is seems very very sluggish. Wont accelerate like it used too, when I punch it its almost like its not down shifting. Also when coasting the idle fluctuates alot (500-1500rpm) it has the symptoms of a bad cat but I put a magnaflow one on it last summer. Its stumping me and any help would be very appreciated. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted May 12, 2014 Report Share Posted May 12, 2014 No visible leaks or wetness? no evidence of fluids mixing? good alignment/tires?? exhaust and head gaskets good? Might be a good idea to do a pressure test on your cylinders. Good fuel/ fuel pressure??? Fat guy in the trunk? transmission modulator have fluid in it?=bad noticeable hissing noise in the engine bay? all out of ideas.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlkndGoldCutlass Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) The car doesnt leak anything burns a tiny bi of oil. No signs of mixing fluids. Has new fuel pump and filter. Fuel pressure is fine. New tires and alignment yes. I fixed all the vacuum leaks I knew of already. There isnt a hissing noise when car is running but when it is shut off it hisses but I was told that's typical. Edited May 23, 2014 by BlkndGoldCutlass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlkndGoldCutlass Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 (edited) could an icm or coil packs be causing this? i put a new tranny modulator on it and that made it worse. the old one was for sure bad but now 2nd-3rd shift almost stalls the vehice. Edited May 23, 2014 by BlkndGoldCutlass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 I'm wondering just how old the plug wires are...and I'd almost bet they're probably original to the car, and bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
55trucker Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 I'd start off by running the codes to see if there are any now stored, if you do not have a scanner or at least a code reader you can still see what they are by bridging the *hot* terminal to the ground in the connector and read the flashing SES light. This will also force the diagnostic mode, rad fans should engage as well, When you say the fuel pressure is good, did you connect a pressure gauge to the schrader valve in the fuel rail? Static should be approx 45lbs, with the engine running at idle that will vary to as low as 40lbs. If the idle is varying that much a code 35 should be setting seeing as the range is beyond the 200rpm limit for anything longer than 45secs, (even tho you did change it) a faulty canister purge system will cause a stumble, sag or hesitation, & a sticky or binding TPS (code 22) will also cause the same as well as vacuum leaks (stated above). If you don't have a scan tool to check the TPS you will need to *back probe* with a Volt meter and read the change in voltage as the throttle is pushed to the floor (ign on, engine not running)........ .5v @ idle, approx 4.8v @ WOT Does the engine do this when cold & the system is still *open loop* or all the time cold or hot? The electrical parts you installed, were they parts store new? http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-digit-obd-codes-free.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlkndGoldCutlass Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Galaxie- The plugs and wires were replaced approx 5000 miles ago after 1 of the wires broke on me Trucker- there is no ses light i did have one for a knock sensor but i repaired the wire going to it and has since not had an issue. the fuel pressure was just like you mentioned and i watched for the leak down and i pinched the return line to make sure pressure rose and it did like expected. I can check the TPS sensor with my multi meter like you said when i have a chance but last time i had it hooked up to the tech2 at work it read fine. Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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