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Sluggish brake pedal


HEMI-V8

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Hi.

 

My brakes are since I got the Regal pretty sluggish.

 

I don´t no if this is normal for the anti lock system but its annoying.

 

Issue: When I am braking you can hear the anti lock pump (slow driving on my yard) and the the car isn´t braking as fast as it should.

 

Not like other cars, it needs approximately 0,5 sec till you feel that the brakes grap and the car slows down.

 

---------------------------------------------------------

 

Should I first bleed the brake system ?

 

New discs with new brake discs are ordered.

 

Hope anybody can help me ?

 

 

greetings HEMI

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If you double pump the pedal while trying to slow down does it become more responsive?

 

I had a similar issue on my Jeep GC after replacing a new caliper (I didn't have ABS coming on but a slow pedal) and I ended up having a little bit of air in the lines.

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that is the powermaster III all right.....

 

i hope for your sake that you don't need to actually replace anything, sourcing good replacement parts is already difficult enough in the US.

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And likely what you're hearing is just the accumulator pump running. Does it run all the time? It should only run once every 3-5 brake pumps

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Are there any brake lights illuminated on the instrument panel? Have you checked the fluid level? Depress the brake pedal around 40x before pulling the cap off the master cylinder to check the level.

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And likely what you're hearing is just the accumulator pump running. Does it run all the time? It should only run once every 3-5 brake pumps

 

It runs in every touch that I give on the brake paddle.

 

Are there any brake lights illuminated on the instrument panel?

 

Yes, the amber "Anti-Lock" is flashing the whole time. Because that any pre-owner had removed the bulbs in the dash and I hadnt noticed that. :extrapuke:

 

Have you checked the fluid level? Depress the brake pedal around 40x before pulling the cap off the master cylinder to check the level.

 

Ignition ON or OFF ?

 

--------------------

 

Heres a youtube vid where you can here the pump when Im press the paddle: [video=youtube;NlsnbeA-Kyk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NlsnbeA-Kyk&feature=youtu.be

 

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A good friend with an SnapOn scan tool said he can readout the system to see mayby the mistake.

 

Beforehand he meant the accumulator is bad.

 

Is this really possible ?

 

 

THX

Edited by HEMI-V8
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Leave the ignition off when pressing the pedal that many times before checking the brake fluid level.

 

The flashing amber light indicates that there is a fault, but abs is still operational. Often times it's a low accumulator charge that will cause the light to flash. That snap-on scan tool should be able to pull the fault codes and lead you in the right direction.

 

If you or your buddy need access to diagnostic information, let me know. I have access to factory repair manuals, alldata, etc. I've been meaning to scan the entire Powermaster III/Delco Moraine ABS III section out of the factory manual for sometime now, but haven't gotten around to it. I may start on that very soon and will link it to be shared w/ everyone here.

Edited by mfewtrail
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Leave the ignition off when pressing the pedal that many times before checking the brake fluid level.

 

So it looks like after the procedure:

 

post-9500-143689158636_thumb.jpg

 

The flashing amber light indicates that there is a fault, but abs is still operational. Often times it's a low accumulator charge that will cause the light to flash. That snap-on scan tool should be able to pull the fault codes and lead you in the right direction.

 

If you or your buddy need access to diagnostic information, let me know. I have access to factory repair manuals, alldata, etc. I've been meaning to scan the entire Powermaster III/Delco Moraine ABS III section out of the factory manual for sometime now, but haven't gotten around to it. I may start on that very soon and will link it to be shared w/ everyone here.

 

Alright, I will report when I was by my buddy.

 

That you got an access to all this stuff is great.

 

thank you.

 

 

UPDATE:

 

post-9500-143689158657_thumb.jpg

 

62 - LOW ACCUMULATOR PRECHARGE

 

Means that I need a new accumulator oe another stuff ?

post-9500-14368915861_thumb.jpg

post-9500-143689158624_thumb.jpg

Edited by HEMI-V8
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Yes, low charge means the accumulator is weak and needs to be replaced. There's a part number thread around here that lists compatible part numbers from American suppliers. They're generally around $125-150 US. Depending on shipping, import tax, etc. you might want to price out an accumulator like this that "Shurup" from Ukraine recently posted about: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/79283-Delco-Moraine-ABS-III-Manual-GM-book

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Alright. Fortunately OLEA is an german company and only 80 miles away from me.

 

I paid for the accumulator with the adaptor $ 257, free charging, recharging will cost about $ 30.

 

But which accumulator did I need now and what means "recharging" in the post from Shurup ?

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Traditionally accumulators are a one time use, and throw it out when its depleted thing.

 

that OLEA one has a port on the front to refill it when it gets low

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Hopefully not, Accumulator is more of a wear item that will cause that condition. Unfortunately the switch is no longer available.

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The scan tool should be able to do some functional tests to determine whether the switch is bad or not via shutoff pressure(s). As Chris said, the accumulator is a wear item. After some years of use, they start losing their ability to hold a charge causing the motor to run more frequently to get up to operating pressure. There are still some GM accumulators available. Search part # 25528382. I just threw out the other option of the Olear accumulators due to your location. The GM ones run from about $125 US on up.

 

This Hydac unit is another option @ $135 US: http://spinningwheels-sc.com/hydacaccumulatorballs.aspx <---Those are relatively new and have just been made though the description there does not indicate it. That supplier buys from Hydac every so often to get fresh accumulators in. An Olear unit would be new as well. It's said that accumulators sitting on the shelf unused lose their ability to hold a charge. I'm not certain how true that is, but it might be something for you to consider when making a purchase. All the GM ones are going to be older models that have been sitting around in inventories for several years or longer.

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I bought a Hydac from Spinning wheels recently. It was at my house the next day. Works perfectly. It doesn't have a nut on the top, but I did it with an oil filter wrench fairly easily. Of course, you won't get it to Germany overnight. . .

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After searching for a long time I found this:

http://www.lotus-forum.de/WBB/board14-lotus-cars/board7-lotus-classic/7000-abs-druckspeicher-found-the-alternative/

 

So I called with HANSA-FLEX and the accumualtor costs 150 € inclusive precharge

 

I bought a Hydac from Spinning wheels recently.

 

Got you a number on this part for me ?

Edited by HEMI-V8
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  • 6 months later...

Now I´ve got time to care about my brake problem, so I have an question:

 

Is it necessary to precharge the accumulator ? If "YES" how much pressure did I need ?

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So after reading tons of threads Im not really smarter than before.

 

Because Im from germany and many accumulator distributors are close to me, I will order a new one here.

 

I only need the right one !?

 

Till the brake problem is not fixed I won´t drive my Buick, its to dangerous. :bawling1:

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