Jump to content

advice on compressor removal?


Psych0matt

Recommended Posts

I got the three mounting bolts off, only one gave me an issue, but now I have to try to get the ac lines off, and there's not really any room. I'm still debating removing all the ac stuff entirely, but that seems like even more work. For now I just want to throw another hopefully good one on.

 

Anyone have any suggestions how they got the lines off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One disconnects the a/c lines flange before unbolting the compressor, if necessary pull out the rad fans first (secondary) to get the needed maneuvering room. The flange bolt is on the rad side of the compressor.

Edited by 55trucker
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a stud with a nut? If so than I see it, it'll just take some maneuvering to get to. Then the line just pulls out?

 

To verify: three bolts to bracket, one plug, and a nut that Honda the line in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, it's a stud with a nut on it holding both lines to the compressor. Remove the nut, and pull off the lines. And yes, it takes some maneuvering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

save the gasket washers-some cars can have two different thickness seals with some aftermarket compressors.

 

I highly suggest cleaning the area real well with brake cleaner and compressed air to remove any chance at contamination...the pumps usually have screens but why risk shit...stretch a small square of plastic garbage bag over the cleaned line end if it'll be open for more than a short time...the longer its open the longer your drawdown time needs to be to remove moisture.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ I strenuously disagree with *saving* the old O-rings,

 

toss them & spend $10 on a new kit for the compressor, why would you go to all the time & effort of installing a replacement compressor and NOT install new O-rings?

 

The old ones will be compressed & bound to leak.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ I strenuously disagree with *saving* the old O-rings,

 

toss them & spend $10 on a new kit for the compressor, why would you go to all the time & effort of installing a replacement compressor and NOT install new O-rings?

 

The old ones will be compressed & bound to leak.

 

for reference

 

I used to get paid to fix botched home repairs...more than a few were from using the wrong seals in the "kit" of a cheapo reman. always smart to save the old gaskets for future reference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think my delete pulley set me back like $17. You really have to want a hollow A/C compressor to waste your time tesring one apart to save $17.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think my delete pulley set me back like $17. You really have to want a hollow A/C compressor to waste your time tesring one apart to save $17.

 

I'll waste whatever time I want, thanks. Also, I can't find them any cheaper than about $25. I just thought it might be an option, hadn't looked into it yet :thumbsup:My biggest concern is getting the bearing chirping to go away, working AC is not the top priority. I just don't want to tear the rest of the AC stuff out either, so I'm still debating what I want to do

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I got all three bolts out and the lines off, but the compressor still seems to be tight in there. So my two questions are A) Do I just have to work really really hard to get it loose, and it slides toward the front? B) where can I actually get it out? Doesn't look like theres enough room toward the wheel well...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there is usually a small bracket at the rear of the compressor that bolts it to the block near the a_c lines

yes it's wives forward to the front you may have to un thread the studs or remove the bracket off the block.

it should come through the wheel well though you may have to pull the starter n pull it out that direction if you can't its been awhile since I've tackled a dual overhead cam 34

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I highly suggest a new dryer and orifice tube if you decide to replace the compressor to null the chance of trashing the new one. A/c is gold in Texas so we don't mess around haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't remember ever having to drop a starter to get at a 3.4 compressor. Remove the fans and use some swivel sockets to get at the back mounting bolts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't remember ever having to drop a starter to get at a 3.4 compressor. Remove the fans and use some swivel sockets to get at the back mounting bolts.

 

did you have an issue with the fan hitting the front valve cover? I got the fan loose but couldnt get it past, so I sild it to the side just enough to get the stud bolt off

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...