Pitts Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Did a few searches on the forum to see if anyone really knew about high output alternators on here. I've seen people mention swapping and doing a little bit of work to make them all good. So I figured I'd let you know my favorite place. They sell standard and high output alternators for many types of vehicles (as well as starters, bushings, gauges, etc..). The website is http://www.dbelectrical.com . I bought a 220 amp alternator and it bolted on with no problems. I've actually had it for about 2 years and never had a problem. Only reason I have it is because of my sound system and my lighting upgrades (no, nothing under the unibody). Prices are very affordable as well. The 220 for most w-bodies is just under $300. I paid about $50 for shipping and had it in a week. It's a heavy beast too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booba Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 is it CS130D based or Cs144? CS130D's are garbage and chew through bearings pretty quick. CS144s are power beast, putting out 80-110 amps at idle (stock) and run waaaay cooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 a quick test shows them giving the proper image for a given application, and all i saw were 130D for 160/200/220 amp units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booba Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Yea, all I saw was 130D's as well, I dunno about this place, but everywhere I have looked up HO 130Ds have little to no change in idle output which is where we really need it in these cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 i'm not so sure any more idle output could be accomplished without somehow increasing airflow through it at the same speed without risking overheating it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booba Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 That's exactly my line of thinking, that's why I just threw in the towel on the 130Ds and went straight to a CS144. Even in stock form it blows the 130D out of the water. Hell, it even outperforms my 160 amp 3G in my truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 (edited) The website is www.dbelectrical.com ... ...Prices are very affordable as well. They're "affordable" because they're Communist Chinese. CS130D's are garbage and chew through bearings pretty quick. If you think the CS130D eats bearings, you've never had the "pleasure" of owning a vehicle with the older CS130 (non "D") The CS130D was a significant upgrade from the plain CS130. In the end, the world was told what "CS" stands for many years ago, when the earth was still cooling and dinosaurs were everywhere. Edited January 30, 2014 by Schurkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booba Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 I went threw 2 CS130D in a span of 2 months, and I have nothing all that beefy on it. Big 3 upgrade, small stereo that I don't listen to very loud (kids), and the lows\highs mod on my headlights. After 3 minutes of running I couldn't touch the alternator, and the lights would dim the second my heated seat or defrost was turned on. With the CS144, I have to do a LOT of even remotely see it dim, I have to do stupid things like roll the windows up when they are already up to see it dim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_s95 Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 http://www.mechman.com/ I've seen a lot of audio guys on youtube using these. They're probably way more expensive but I guess you get what you pay for. Apparently you can custom order it to your vehicle and get stuff like a voltage adjustment knob and powder coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 ..... why would you want to powdercoat aluminum when it is supposed to dissipate heat as quickly as possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_s95 Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 ..... why would you want to powdercoat aluminum when it is supposed to dissipate heat as quickly as possible? Maybe not powder coated then. Some how they color them. Pretty stupid option IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 I've never had problems with them. Even after running for an hour, the alternator has never gotten past 100 degrees. If y'all would like, I could take a few pictures of the actual alternator itself so you can decide if it's a CS130D or a CS144. I'll have owned and used it for 2 years in just a couple weeks from now. It's always been exposed to upgraded lighting, extra lighting, a system pushing over 1200 watts (between the HU and amp), hardwired radar, and a few other toys/gadgets. Never had a problem with dimming, overheating, or bearing noise. So if you'd like me to upload a couple pictures of my alternator, just say the word. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 let me bounce y'all on my knee and tell you a little story about a gen 1 w-body I had a CS130d custom made for it. I had it stuffed with one of those new stators and packed with diodes. at first I was looking at building a CS130 but they don't cool nearly as well. I use it to charge 2 batteries and a capacitor for running a 1000/1 JL Audio Slash amp and a W-7 13.5" sub. The amp has a 100A fuse and there is another 4 channel amp for the rest. 150x4. It did manage to stay cool and charge at idle, but it had to have a pretty small pulley to do that. I don't consider it garbage as I paid $300 something dollars and then years later had another one built just like it. Damn, I have had that one for awhile now too. looks like there are on-line places to buy them now but not for 1st Gen W's. I would like to have voltage knobs on them, that sounds cool... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 a gen 1 w-body I had a CS130d custom made for it. What year car? Which engine? Did it come from GM with a 130, or a 130D? I asked this forum awhile ago about converting from a 130 to a 130D, but it seems that the 130D won't fit the mounting bracket on my '92 Lumina Euro 3.4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 well, you can't really convert one to the other. it is a different chassis but you must reclock the 130D (with a special order case I believe) and grind off, or machine off part of it's case to fit the bracket where the CS130 was. Then there is just the wires and plug to figure out. I did these ones for the TGP which is obviously just the 3.1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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