Pitts Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 All my friends know I've always had a hard on to want to convert my 95 GP RWD. But it would obviously be easier and cheaper to convert it to mid engine. So, here in lies the question. Besides the engine, trans, and relocating components, what things would I need to get in order to do the conversion (I'm mainly talking about stuff that would deal with mounting)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Actually easiest way to rwd a gen 1 is to put it on a 78-88 gm g-body frame. Nearly identical trackwidth/wheelbase All my friends know I've always had a hard on to want to convert my 95 GP RWD. But it would obviously be easier and cheaper to convert it to mid engine. So, here in lies the question. Besides the engine, trans, and relocating components, what things would I need to get in order to do the conversion (I'm mainly talking about stuff that would deal with mounting)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Actually easiest way to rwd a gen 1 is to put it on a 78-88 gm g-body frame. Nearly identical trackwidth/wheelbase Never delt with putting a unibody on a frame. Just how would one go about doing that? I mean, would I just straighten it as best as possible and weld it? Or? And I've never been afraid of spending money or doing hard work (hell, I rebuilt my J-Body twice in 14 months (a cam gear broke 3 hours after first rebuild) and got about $17k wrapped up in the engine so far). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Youd also wanna notch the gp floorplans so it set lower on the frame, sorta like a bodydrop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Youd also wanna notch the gp floorplans so it set lower on the frame, sorta like a bodydrop Sounds like fun. Know of anyone that has done this and has some tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Theres a dude on youtube with a fifth gen monte on an 86 monte frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Theres a dude on youtube with a fifth gen monte on an 86 monte frame So it does already seem to be a cheapest way to do it. I think the hardest part would be finding a rust free frame I could work with (as I live int MT). As for being 1/2" longer than the W-bodu, that's an easy fix. Cut a 4" section and replace it with a 4.5" piece, weld, grind, weld 8" long plates on both sides (overkill. Not that it matters cause if I got in a wreck, it wouldn't be at 15 mph. Haha). Doing this would probably drop it down to a $6500 job (replacing all necessary stuff, upgrading the dif, the car, and more). And that's with breathing room to do a full header back exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Shouldnt b too hard to find. Doors and floors rust ou long b4 frame . Im kinda a g-body junky So it does already seem to be a cheapest way to do it. I think the hardest part would be finding a rust free frame I could work with (as I live int MT). As for being 1/2" longer than the W-bodu, that's an easy fix. Cut a 4" section and replace it with a 4.5" piece, weld, grind, weld 8" long plates on both sides (overkill. Not that it matters cause if I got in a wreck, it wouldn't be at 15 mph. Haha). Doing this would probably drop it down to a $6500 job (replacing all necessary stuff, upgrading the dif, the car, and more). And that's with breathing room to do a full header back exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 And ive pushed over 400hp and 450 ft lb through the stock rearend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) And ive pushed over 400hp and 450 ft lb through the stock rearend Always good to know. I personally am a J body slut. I also know the EcoTec engines too well. Also, from your knowledge, would I have to mess with the suspension at all to make it fit? It seems like an all around easy job. Make small adjustments to the frame, notch where necessary, weld, custom tunnel?, and standard maintenance. Edited January 19, 2014 by Pitts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Main thing i canthink of is trans tunnel, but u cansnag that from the donor Always good to know. I personally am a J body slut. I also know the EcoTec engines too well. Also, from your knowledge, would I have to mess with the suspension at all to make it fit? It seems like an all around easy job. Make small adjustments to the frame, notch where necessary, weld, custom tunnel?, and standard maintenance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Main thing i canthink of is trans tunnel, but u cansnag that from the donor Or maybe run without it so I dont have to worry about having to warm up my car in the winter just to defrost my windows. Hahah. Nah, I'd probably fab a removable tunnel (like Ford loves to do on their E series) so I have more area to work on stuff. But if the tunnel and the frame are all I'd really need (as far as parts go), it's possible to do this for $3kthe (even after the wire for the welder). My biggest issue would then be getting rid of the undercoating on the bottom of my GP so I could weld. Once My J Body is turboed (all components to turbo, axles, clutch kit and flywheel, suspension work, and a tune left to do), then this conversion will be next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 You could use your gp parts car as the guinnea pig . Yeah im planning on building a removable tunnel for my 86 cutlass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 You could use your gp parts car as the guinnea pig . Yeah im planning on building a removable tunnel for my 86 cutlass You're right. Best part is, the parts car has a severely rusted rear end so I wouldn't have to cut the body out, just hit it with a hammer. Haha. But I'd rather do it to my DD. Simply because no one would expect a 95 4 door GP to be RWD. I can say this for sure, after the conversion, I'd save up for a 383 stroker, build the trans (or swap if necessary), and strengthen up the frame and unibody. Talk about goodbye little civic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Pics or it didn't happen. Ive been looking for pics of a completed G-body swap or at least a pic of a stripped down rolling G-body frame for comparison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) All my friends know I've always had a hard on to want to convert my 95 GP RWD. But it would obviously be easier and cheaper to convert it to mid engine. So, here in lies the question. Besides the engine, trans, and relocating components, what things would I need to get in order to do the conversion (I'm mainly talking about stuff that would deal with mounting)?There are some guys around here that have a green 95 Cutlass with twin 3800s. Might want to see how they have their rear engine installed. You WILL need frame support in the rear regardless of how you have the engine, after my experimenting with cutting up an old CS coupe I decided if I were to attempt the RWD conversion again it would get a completely custom tubular frame either designed from scratch or wait for a CS W-body drag car comes up for sale again and strip that frame down for street use. You will also more than likely lose the use of your rear doors and seats being a sedan. If anything I had thought to fabricate the body cladding of a Wbody CS onto a Gbody CS 442 but no G-body cars are ever in the junkyards around here if you can believe it. Edited January 19, 2014 by rich_e777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pitts Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 I've done a bit of thinking and some researching (seeing as how I had nothing else to do at work this past evening/morning). I'm going to do the G body method. Oh, and you can bet there will be tons of pictures. So many that it'll probably piss people off. However, I've got about $7500 left to do on my J body (boosted and properly built unlike a honda). Then I can do this project. It might take a year or two to start gathering stuff for this project as I don't exactly make $20 an hour and I've gotta finish paying off bills from college (about $2k) and Snap-On ($2800 currently, but you always need more tools) before I can continue on my J body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharged400sbc Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 its actually medium adriatic blue i could imagine the Gbody frame being easier in some ways and more of a PITA in other area's of fabrication.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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