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Rear valve cover bolt rounded off, Ideas?


rich_e777

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Every project its always something. Got the engine torn down to get at the rear exhaust manifold and fix a timing cover gasket that's leaking coolant(there IS a coolant passage in the timing chain cover), I found that the bottom bolt on the rear valve cover drivers side has been rounded off. Not enough room to bang a socket on and the bolt itself seems to hard to drill through. The only other idea that I can think of would be to try and weld a socket on and try that. I am not opposed to trashing the valve cover to get it off, they are a dime a dozen at any given junkyard. Does anyone have a idea or suggestion?

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Vise grips?

Every project its always something. Got the engine torn down to get at the rear exhaust manifold and fix a timing cover gasket that's leaking coolant(there IS a coolant passage in the timing chain cover), I found that the bottom bolt on the rear valve cover drivers side has been rounded off. Not enough room to bang a socket on and the bolt itself seems to hard to drill through. The only other idea that I can think of would be to try and weld a socket on and try that. I am not opposed to trashing the valve cover to get it off, they are a dime a dozen at any given junkyard. Does anyone have a idea or suggestion?
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I agree..an easy-out would be the best bet...that bolt shouldn't be too awfully tight, so that should work.

if you could drill maybe try a left handed drill bit, it might catch as your drilling and pull that bolt out
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I have the engine rocked forward with the bolt through the dogbone slave hole and engine mount bracket. Had a air drill on it yesterday and the bolt just ate up the bit. I cannot believe how tight it is either considering I was able to pull out lim bolts by hands (think you retards at midas). I might try a lowes or home depot for a good hardened extractor(is there a preferred kind?). I also had an idea to use some kind of glue or epoxy to fix a 8mm socket on there but I don't know if I have the time to let it set up and cure, I`d like to have her on the road this afternoon. No room for vice grips or pliers. I don't have constant access to the internet here in 1984(grandparents garage) but I got all kinds of air tools I can use. Thanks for the replies, more ideas the better.:thumbsup:

Edited by rich_e777
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If it's that tight, I doubt epoxy is going to have the "oomph" to hold it tightly enough without fracturing the expoxy...Permatex made a "thread repair" kit I used once that might have sufficient strength...you'll definitely have to throw the socket away though, if you use that stuff. It did a great job on my LeBaron, holding the main bolt for the top latch, even though it was used thousands of times over the years after I used the Permatex...if it did that, it should hold an 8mm socket in place quite nicely.

I have the engine rocked forward with the bolt through the dogbone slave hole and engine mount bracket. Had a air drill on it yesterday and the bolt just ate up the bit. I cannot believe how tight it is either considering I was able to pull out lim bolts by hands (think you retards at midas). I might try a lowes or home depot for a good hardened extractor(is there a preferred kind?). I also had an idea to use some kind of glue or epoxy to fix a 8mm socket on there but I don't know if I have the time to let it set up and cure, I`d like to have her on the road this afternoon. No room for vice grips or pliers. I don't have constant access to the internet here in 1984(grandparents garage) but I got all kinds of air tools I can use. Thanks for the replies, more ideas the better.:thumbsup:
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well if you use a harder extractor be carefull not to break that off as it would be nearly impossible to drill that out as for a quickish fix hunt down some heli coils

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...here's a handy tool/kit to have around...

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200263374_200263374?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Hand%20Tools-_-Sockets-_-962238&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=962238&gclid=CJT6sNuyjLoCFRKe4AodzBkA8Q

 

...and another, different style...

 

http://www.powersportsplace.com/parts/shc-952060?seid=pspse1&gclid=CNeg9_mzjLoCFZOe4AodaVAAmQ

 

...these are awesome, but pricey...

 

http://www.sears.com/grip-tite-17-pc-super-sockets-rounded-bolt/p-00910324000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=00910324000&kispla=00910324000P

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=bolt+remover&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=qq5WUouMOMnb4APnioDABg&ved=0CAsQ_AUoAw&biw=1366&bih=655&dpr=1#spd=11311244656215264004

 

...found this on Ebay...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Black-Decker-Nut-Bolt-Remover-Set-/360238925884?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item53dfe9c83c&vxp=mtr

 

I had a valve cover screw break off once.... I used a grinding stone on a drill to smooth out the top, used a punch to make a target, used a Cobalt drill bit to make a hole, pounded a small Torx Drive Socket that fits on a 3/8" Ratchet into the hole, (any thing that you can jam into the hole real good might work like a small tough screwdriver or philips head, etc...) and then was able to spin the screw out... yours sounds like it's "corrosion welded" into the screw hole. I think one of the above or other "Bolt Remover" will do the trick. Google "Bolt Remover" (Not "Screw Extractor")... I also have a Socket that's a Deep Socket with something like Spring mounted Pins in it... you place it over the bolt head, the pins that hit the head get pushed in, then the rest of the pins grip the bolt head... even if it's all chewed up... either way you turn it, it grips the head such that you can turn the bolt either way... I believe it's one of those "As Seen On TV" items... I'm not sure what it's called, but it's Cheap and very Handy... I got mine at Pep Boys a very long time ago... I haven't seen it around lately...

 

...then of course there are the Heli Coil kits... the replacement screw sockets are extremely tough... if you cross thread or break a bolt off in one... be prepared for an extended stay over the engine bay of your car... sheesh!

 

...here's something that looks like a good add-on to any bolt/screw remover kit...

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stripped-Screw-Remover-Aircraft-EZ-Grip-Friction-Drops-/181232123661?pt=Motors_Aviation_Parts_Gear&hash=item2a3246bf0d&vxp=mtr

 

I purchased at Valu-Home center these neat little... ugh... things... they're strips of metal, with sharp bumps on them... have you ever seen the metal, rubber tire tube scruffer that comes with a bicycle tube repair kit... it looks something like that... the strips can be inserted in a socket head for extra grip, or if you have a stripped screw socket, you can insert the strips in there... the strips are conformable, and cuttable, and very easy to use, and very handy, for just a few dollars... they have them in the "goop and glue" section, in a small yellow carded package, promoted for doing woodwork stuff, but they work pretty good with metal as well... they're also good for downsizing a socket... making it tighter for a bolt/nut head...

 

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1366&bih=655&tbm=shop&q=stripped+screw+hole+wood&oq=stripped+screw+hole+wood&gs_l=serp.3...22030.23768.0.24527.5.5.0.0.0.0.156.670.1j4.5.0....0...1c.1.27.serp..5.0.0.8QeY_zWkd-0#spd=16463580705907404004

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Hey guys thanks for the replies and info, update now. I ended up breaking the valve cover off, there was no other option given the archaic air tools I had, circa 1970 something. Even with the engine rocked past its dogbone tilt I couldn`t get this massive impact gun to sit flush with it. I cringe at the very thought of how I did it and probably could have cracked a walnut with my anus at the moment I did but I used a large prybar between the cylinder head(facepalm moment) and valve cover and well ya`ll can guess the rest. I did used a piece of wood and the cylinder head was fine, no damage at all I promise.

 

Decided to splurge and went all the way down to the head gaskets with the intention of pulling the pistons and honing the walls but they were in beautiful condition at 125k, not a defect in them. Replaced every gasket, and seal above that as well as the harmonic balancer seal. But as I was getting the engine back together and time became critical because the garage is closed and locked up on the weekends, and in my hurry I forgot to move a sensor connection out from under the plenum MAF IIRC or MAP and forgot to attach the sensor behind the Harmonic balancer before returning the tool. So in the shop it sits 120 miles away. I need to flush the coolant and try and drain the oil because a few pieces of RTV fell down into places they aren't suppose to be floating around. And then I shall put massive amounts of nano-volts through the system and bring this beast back to life!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:lol:

 

Until Monday I`m driving a 2003 Grand AM GT with a 3400 and RAM AIR(:lol:)

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