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Posted

Ok, I'm at the gas station. Go to start car , press brake. Suddenly there is high pitched squeal for split second. And brake pedal goes to floor, no resistance. Tried pumping up pedal, nothing. Checked for leaks, nothing. Have plenty of fluid. Vehicle idles just fine. I'm thinking master cylinder... Thought?

Posted

if there aren't any leaks any where inside or outside then master cylinder is a possibility, no break pedal usually means the break system is no longer a closed system.

Posted

i'm thinking the seal in the master cylinder completely went out. Doesn't look to be too bad of a job? Probably bleeding the system would be the toughest. now that

Posted
Ok, I'm at the gas station. Go to start car , press brake. Suddenly there is high pitched squeal for split second. And brake pedal goes to floor, no resistance. Tried pumping up pedal, nothing. Checked for leaks, nothing. Have plenty of fluid. Vehicle idles just fine. I'm thinking master cylinder... Thought?

 

i'm thinking the seal in the master cylinder completely went out. Doesn't look to be too bad of a job? Probably bleeding the system would be the toughest. now that

Please don't tell us what car, or what model year it is. That would take the fun out of answering your questions.

 

Sudden loss of brake pedal, with no external leaks? Pretty much HAS to be the master cylinder.

 

Be aware that some vehicles need a special procedure/special tool (scan tool) for replacing the master cylinder due to the ABS.

Posted

Ok, per your request, 95, cutlass supreme SL. So is there special procedure for mastercylinder with ABS?

Posted

Ha! You are, of course, correct. Knowing what kind of car is pretty handy...and I think people looking for answers in such forums should start with make/model/year and some specifics of the issue in the title. There is an amazing amount of knowledge here, but it's sometimes hard to separate the fly shit from the pepper. I suspect those on the receiving end of your comments think you are sarcastic, pompous and dogmatic, which may come from seeing the same thing, over and over again in your considerable number of years here. Do folks tend to get defensive when you make such comments? Just curious.

Posted

I have a spare master cylinder/abs setup if you want it, it's yours.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

Posted (edited)
Push rod? What can go wrong with push rod?

 

Nothing.

My guess is that he meant to make sure that it didn't come loose from the brake pedal?

 

 

As long as the fluid level is fine and steady, then replace the MC.

 

As long as the ABS is fine, no errors/lights, it's easy.

 

Turn the car on, do not move the car or put it in drive, wait 1 min as the ABS rehomes, then turn the car off.

 

 

Take off ABS and MC. Replace the MC, watch for the o-rings.

 

Put back the MC and ABS back on.

Again, turn the car on, do not move the car or put it in drive, wait 1 min as the ABS rehomes, then turn the car off. :)

Then, bleed the ABS at the two bleeder screws, then bleed the 4 wheels.

 

 

Very simple and quick if you have a pressure bleeder. With a helper, it should also be quick since you should still have most/all of the fluid in the brake lines.

 

NOTE: You want to bleed ~1+ pint per wheel - especially the rear wheels. Get two (or more) 32 oz bottles. Don't be cheap and foolish, two 32 oz bottles of brake fluid are not that expensive! :)

 

For one thing, it's a good idea to fully flush the brake fluid. Especially after a MC goes bad -and likely puts dirt, rust, rubber parts, etc in the brake fluid.

 

Good Luck!

Edited by Cutlass350
Posted (edited)

I do have ABS and Brake light on, but they have been on for about 1 year, So I dismissed this as being related. I figured it was just the Module or something. I thought if ABS went out, you just wouldn't have ABS, but normal braking is would not be affected. I don't mind not having ABS. So, by the sounds of it, I should probably check my ABS light code is?

Edited by pshojo
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
I have a spare master cylinder/abs setup if you want it, it's yours.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

 

If he doesnt want it I will most certainly take it off your hands ASAP. That is If the offer is open to me as well :D

 

Sent from my HTCEVODesign4G using Tapatalk 2

Posted

So, decided to pull my car into the garage to start looking at the issue little more. The car wouldn't start. Put a jumper on it, barely would crank. So, put the charger on it over night. Now, the car won't start or crank at all. Lights will come on briefely when turning the key, and get three 'buzzes' under drivers dash. so frustrating. wonder if the charger burnt up something under the dash? or thoughts?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Pshojo, Is it as simple as loose battery cables, either on the battery or the starter for + or the block for - ?

Posted
Ha! You are, of course, correct. Knowing what kind of car is pretty handy...and I think people looking for answers in such forums should start with make/model/year and some specifics of the issue in the title. There is an amazing amount of knowledge here, but it's sometimes hard to separate the fly shit from the pepper. I suspect those on the receiving end of your comments think you are sarcastic, pompous and dogmatic, which may come from seeing the same thing, over and over again in your considerable number of years here. Do folks tend to get defensive when you make such comments? Just curious.
Some have their own versions of humor and guys, especially car guys have a tendency to bust balls. It is to be expected and should never be taken personally. Ive seen OPs be a complete dick to some of the more knowledgable members in one thread and the members still answer questions in some of the assholes` later threads. The ones who cant take it are no longer here anyways, they went to bitch to Maury Povich long ago.:lol:

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