pshojo Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Ok, I'm at the gas station. Go to start car , press brake. Suddenly there is high pitched squeal for split second. And brake pedal goes to floor, no resistance. Tried pumping up pedal, nothing. Checked for leaks, nothing. Have plenty of fluid. Vehicle idles just fine. I'm thinking master cylinder... Thought? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgrandprix Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 if there aren't any leaks any where inside or outside then master cylinder is a possibility, no break pedal usually means the break system is no longer a closed system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Mebbe check the brake pedal pushrod too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 i'm thinking the seal in the master cylinder completely went out. Doesn't look to be too bad of a job? Probably bleeding the system would be the toughest. now that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Ok, I'm at the gas station. Go to start car , press brake. Suddenly there is high pitched squeal for split second. And brake pedal goes to floor, no resistance. Tried pumping up pedal, nothing. Checked for leaks, nothing. Have plenty of fluid. Vehicle idles just fine. I'm thinking master cylinder... Thought? Â i'm thinking the seal in the master cylinder completely went out. Doesn't look to be too bad of a job? Probably bleeding the system would be the toughest. now that Please don't tell us what car, or what model year it is. That would take the fun out of answering your questions. Â Sudden loss of brake pedal, with no external leaks? Pretty much HAS to be the master cylinder. Â Be aware that some vehicles need a special procedure/special tool (scan tool) for replacing the master cylinder due to the ABS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 Ok, per your request, 95, cutlass supreme SL. So is there special procedure for mastercylinder with ABS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solarboy Posted October 5, 2013 Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 Ha! You are, of course, correct. Knowing what kind of car is pretty handy...and I think people looking for answers in such forums should start with make/model/year and some specifics of the issue in the title. There is an amazing amount of knowledge here, but it's sometimes hard to separate the fly shit from the pepper. I suspect those on the receiving end of your comments think you are sarcastic, pompous and dogmatic, which may come from seeing the same thing, over and over again in your considerable number of years here. Do folks tend to get defensive when you make such comments? Just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 Push rod? What can go wrong with push rod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted October 5, 2013 Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 I have a spare master cylinder/abs setup if you want it, it's yours. Â Â Sent from my iPhone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cutlass350 Posted October 5, 2013 Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 (edited) Push rod? What can go wrong with push rod? Â Nothing. My guess is that he meant to make sure that it didn't come loose from the brake pedal? Â Â As long as the fluid level is fine and steady, then replace the MC. Â As long as the ABS is fine, no errors/lights, it's easy. Â Turn the car on, do not move the car or put it in drive, wait 1 min as the ABS rehomes, then turn the car off. Â Â Take off ABS and MC. Replace the MC, watch for the o-rings. Â Put back the MC and ABS back on. Again, turn the car on, do not move the car or put it in drive, wait 1 min as the ABS rehomes, then turn the car off. Then, bleed the ABS at the two bleeder screws, then bleed the 4 wheels. Â Â Very simple and quick if you have a pressure bleeder. With a helper, it should also be quick since you should still have most/all of the fluid in the brake lines. Â NOTE: You want to bleed ~1+ pint per wheel - especially the rear wheels. Get two (or more) 32 oz bottles. Don't be cheap and foolish, two 32 oz bottles of brake fluid are not that expensive! Â For one thing, it's a good idea to fully flush the brake fluid. Especially after a MC goes bad -and likely puts dirt, rust, rubber parts, etc in the brake fluid. Â Good Luck! Edited October 5, 2013 by Cutlass350 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2013 (edited) I do have ABS and Brake light on, but they have been on for about 1 year, So I dismissed this as being related. I figured it was just the Module or something. I thought if ABS went out, you just wouldn't have ABS, but normal braking is would not be affected. I don't mind not having ABS. So, by the sounds of it, I should probably check my ABS light code is? Edited October 6, 2013 by pshojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2013 I might take you up on this. No one around here has MC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crunkGP96 Posted October 15, 2013 Report Share Posted October 15, 2013 I have a spare master cylinder/abs setup if you want it, it's yours.  Sent from my iPhone  If he doesnt want it I will most certainly take it off your hands ASAP. That is If the offer is open to me as well  Sent from my HTCEVODesign4G using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pshojo Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 So, decided to pull my car into the garage to start looking at the issue little more. The car wouldn't start. Put a jumper on it, barely would crank. So, put the charger on it over night. Now, the car won't start or crank at all. Lights will come on briefely when turning the key, and get three 'buzzes' under drivers dash. so frustrating. wonder if the charger burnt up something under the dash? or thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George Posted November 2, 2013 Report Share Posted November 2, 2013 Pshojo, Is it as simple as loose battery cables, either on the battery or the starter for + or the block for - ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted November 2, 2013 Report Share Posted November 2, 2013 Ha! You are, of course, correct. Knowing what kind of car is pretty handy...and I think people looking for answers in such forums should start with make/model/year and some specifics of the issue in the title. There is an amazing amount of knowledge here, but it's sometimes hard to separate the fly shit from the pepper. I suspect those on the receiving end of your comments think you are sarcastic, pompous and dogmatic, which may come from seeing the same thing, over and over again in your considerable number of years here. Do folks tend to get defensive when you make such comments? Just curious. Some have their own versions of humor and guys, especially car guys have a tendency to bust balls. It is to be expected and should never be taken personally. Ive seen OPs be a complete dick to some of the more knowledgable members in one thread and the members still answer questions in some of the assholes` later threads. The ones who cant take it are no longer here anyways, they went to bitch to Maury Povich long ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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