beaterbart Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 (edited) Hello to all! I purchased this car almost 3 months ago, have learned lots about it & repaired/replaced quite a few things, but am still have problems. I apologize in advance for the long list to follow Here are the specifics - 1990 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1 6 cylinder "T" code base model. I was told by the previous owner that the EGR valve was replaced (looks used rather than new), a brake line was mended (a section underneath the car was cut out & replaced), & the catalytic converter had plugged up so that was taken care of (I learned a few days later it was cut out & replaced with a straight section of exhaust pipe). I put it through its paces & it seemed like a good car for $800 - something I could wrench on myself without paying a mechanic... I went straight to Walmart to pick up oil, oil/air/fuel filter & got to work. The oil & air went fine but I ended up cutting out the fuel filter as it was rusted to the fuel lines. After that, I started putt-putting around & it began to die as I would accelerate (usually in 2nd or 3rd gear rather than 1st). I was able to restart it though it usually took several tries. Finally it died & I wasn't able to restart it. I called Autozone & was told the coil packs tend to fail, especially "the center one - for 2 & 5". I pulled off the center coil pack, which was actually 3 & 6 & replaced it with the new one. The upper coolant hose burst, which I replaced. I added 1 or 2 bottles of fuel line/injector cleaner with every tank which seemed to clear up the bulk of the fuel-related issues (the car had been sitting for about a year before I bought it with very minimal driving, so I assume the fuel lines, etc., had become clogged (not to mention it is a 23 year old car)). However, I soon realized that it would not restart when the engine was hot & had been sitting for more than 5-10 minutes! I talked to a number of car-savvy individuals, mechanics, & auto store workers & the best I got was " yeah I had one of those cars & never figured out what made it do that". In addition, I have replaced the battery (brand new Everstart from Walmart), & alternator (new from Autozone). It gave out after 3 weeks (replaced under lifetime warranty (though I was stranded in a parking lot & had to make several bus trips!)) & let me tell you - that's a job & a half, especially on a broken foot! Since the coil packs & ignition control module are right there (& you really need to remove the starter, etc., to easily access them) I pulled them as well & had Autozone test them. All coil packs tested fine, including the one I had replaced earlier, but the ICM failed several tests in a row. I replaced it, along with the coolant temperature sensor. It still wouldn't start after sitting with a hot engine. I installed an indoor/outdoor digital thermometer, with the probe wedged in between the upper coolant hose & a mounting bracket. I know it's not exact, but when it reads above 125-130°F, the engine will crank but not start. I couldn't figure why the secondary cooling fan wasn't running anymore until I discovered that the relay was missing! I have no idea how it disappeared, but I replaced it. It worked then (when the temp was high enough, it cycled on & off) but then the primary stopped running. I tried swapping the relays & fuses around but nothing helped. I unplugged the connector for the sensor on the air filter box & after about 45 minutes of highway driving the "Service Engine Soon" light came on. I jumped the A/B pins to get the code, which was 23 - "intake air temp sensor out of range, low". I also discovered 2 more sensors which throw that code when unplugged - 1 on the throttle body, towards the front of the car, & the other behind the engine on the driver's side (between the throttle body & the MAP sensor). Also, both fans run when I jump the connector (with the key turned to "on" without starting the car) to read the codes (at least when it's showing #23 - haven't reset it yet). I tested the fuel pressure & it's in range, I have yet to replace the spark plugs & plug wires (which are slightly worn but not cracked or exposed). There are no codes displayed & the check engine light stays off. The coolant is circulating properly & has been bled of air. I have noticed that when the engine is really hot (my makeshift coolant temp gauge only goes to 160°F, so usually when it reads "HI") the engine idles a little on the rough side though it doesn't die. However, when I try to accelerate quickly (more often in 2nd or 3rd gear than in 1st) or if I'm trying to maintain speed on a steeper hill, the engine cuts out & usually dies. I'm able to restart it but it will quit again if I don't baby it. If the engine just cuts out, I just coast for a few seconds & can resume accelerating (cautiously). Is that a throttle/speed limiter at work, or something that can be repaired? I've read that the fuel injector's internal wiring can become faulty & cause the engine to die when hot/not start when hot. I'm a little leery about pulling the plenum off to test them though I've read they can be tested with a multi-meter. I'm thinking I might as well have another set of injectors (maybe the fuel rail too?) ready to install when I do that. Any thoughts? Edited October 2, 2013 by beaterbart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 I would start by checking the plugs and the main engine ground. make sure they good. doubt they will be though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 That and ur fuel pressure regulater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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