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Curious about suspension options


ThumpInTheTrunk

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Alright, so I've been looking around at what suspension upgrades are available for my car (92 Lumina Euro 3.4L). I haven't come up with much at all and most of the threads I found with links to parts are now dead links. So basically I've found all of KYB GR2s for the front and an aluminum wishbone (not sure where to get one). The car already has stock shock tower braces, so what else is still available for this thing? Looking to put a nicer than stock set of springs and struts on it, any extra bracing I might be missing, and some decent tires. Currently it bounces around like a bucking bull on a bumpy road, so anything is an improvement, really. What other models share the same parts as mine (Monte Carlo, Grand Prix, etc.), if any? Parts sites don't seem to list hardly anything for Luminas.

 

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96-99 monte z34 front supension and brakes if u go to coilovers in rear u can run gen two rear spindles and brakes :)

Alright, so I've been looking around at what suspension upgrades are available for my car (92 Lumina Euro 3.4L). I haven't come up with much at all and most of the threads I found with links to parts are now dead links. So basically I've found all of KYB GR2s for the front and an aluminum wishbone (not sure where to get one). The car already has stock shock tower braces, so what else is still available for this thing? Looking to put a nicer than stock set of springs and struts on it, any extra bracing I might be missing, and some decent tires. Currently it bounces around like a bucking bull on a bumpy road, so anything is an improvement, really. What other models share the same parts as mine (Monte Carlo, Grand Prix, etc.), if any? Parts sites don't seem to list hardly anything for Luminas.

 

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96-99 monte z34 front supension and brakes if u go to coilovers in rear u can run gen two rear spindles and brakes :)

 

Looking to do it all on a minimal budget, so what can fit without swapping spindles? Does the front suspension still fit on the 92 spindles?

 

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Springs and sway bar yes brakes no and i hear ya on the budget thing :)

Looking to do it all on a minimal budget, so what can fit without swapping spindles? Does the front suspension still fit on the 92 spindles?

 

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Cool, I'll look for some springs and a sway bar for a Monte and see if I can find any better stuff. Also need to replace the dogbone since the engine side bushing is shot lol. Thanks guys.

 

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Didnt know for sure but i was told u had to change spindles for the bigger brakes didnt kno for sure but i kno u seem to kno ur stuff so u kno :)

The 96-99 monte front suspension is exactly the same as what he already has.

 

 

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Energy Suspension makes poly-urethane bushings that you can put on your front and rear sway bars. Custom rear tower strut braces can be ordered from a few members here, they make there own brackets about $50. ES bushings will run about $16-$24 per pair.

 

Right idea for struts and you will be surprised as to how much of a difference just replacing 20+ year old components will make, such as top and bottom engine mounts(for the bottom get solid ones or replace the fluid with liquid nails to make them stiff) inner bushings for rear sway bar, replace leaf spring pads, replace strut bushings, replace control arm bushings with poly ones, ball joints while you have the C arms off if needed. new bushings for rack and pinion and subframe bushings. Im just naming things that typically are bad/going bad/about to go bad on a `92. Oh solid trailing arms help a little.

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Trailing will make a big diff changed one cause it was bent changed the other cause it stiffened evrything up :)

Energy Suspension makes poly-urethane bushings that you can put on your front and rear sway bars. Custom rear tower strut braces can be ordered from a few members here, they make there own brackets about $50. ES bushings will run about $16-$24 per pair.

 

Right idea for struts and you will be surprised as to how much of a difference just replacing 20+ year old components will make, such as top and bottom engine mounts(for the bottom get solid ones or replace the fluid with liquid nails to make them stiff) inner bushings for rear sway bar, replace leaf spring pads, replace strut bushings, replace control arm bushings with poly ones, ball joints while you have the C arms off if needed. new bushings for rack and pinion and subframe bushings. Im just naming things that typically are bad/going bad/about to go bad on a `92. Oh solid trailing arms help a little.

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Energy Suspension makes poly-urethane bushings that you can put on your front and rear sway bars. Custom rear tower strut braces can be ordered from a few members here, they make there own brackets about $50. ES bushings will run about $16-$24 per pair.

 

Right idea for struts and you will be surprised as to how much of a difference just replacing 20+ year old components will make, such as top and bottom engine mounts(for the bottom get solid ones or replace the fluid with liquid nails to make them stiff) inner bushings for rear sway bar, replace leaf spring pads, replace strut bushings, replace control arm bushings with poly ones, ball joints while you have the C arms off if needed. new bushings for rack and pinion and subframe bushings. Im just naming things that typically are bad/going bad/about to go bad on a `92. Oh solid trailing arms help a little.

 

Awesome, thank you! I'll have to save up a couple paychecks and just do this all at once then. This thing's gotta pass inspection by November and as it sits, it'd fail for just the bald tires alone. Also, are there any better options for a wheel bearing and hub assembly than the MasterPro or Precision branded ones O'Reilly sells? The last MasterPro I put on only lasted 2 years before it was grinding again. Replaced the front driver side one that was split clean in half and then, 2 weeks later, the front passenger side one started grinding as well.

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Before you spend money for sway bars and springs, be aware that the Euro 3.4 should already have the "good stuff" as-built.

 

Polyurethane bushings will be a nice improvement.

 

Add the plastic blocks under the rear leaf spring.

 

Fix anything that's bent or broken.

 

Install fresh struts of your favorite brand.

 

Forget about swapping brakes. If you're having problems with poor braking power but the pads and rotors are good, REPLACE THE POWER BOOSTER, and verify that the rear calipers 1) work, and 2) are properly adjusted by using the park brake a bunch of times.

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Before you spend money for sway bars and springs, be aware that the Euro 3.4 should already have the "good stuff" as-built.

 

Polyurethane bushings will be a nice improvement.

 

Add the plastic blocks under the rear leaf spring.

 

Fix anything that's bent or broken.

 

Install fresh struts of your favorite brand.

 

Forget about swapping brakes. If you're having problems with poor braking power but the pads and rotors are good, REPLACE THE POWER BOOSTER, and verify that the rear calipers 1) work, and 2) are properly adjusted by using the park brake a bunch of times.

 

What size sway bars are the "good ones"? I can measure them while I'm under there to find out. And the springs by now are probably sagging and need replacing.

 

Plastic blocks? Anyone have a link to show me what those are?

 

The brakes on this car have always been kinda shitty, I just got used to judging braking distances to accommodate the slow stopping times in this thing. It's certainly no race car lol.

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Rockauto.com has timken bearings for around 100 shipped, And the precision brand at Oreilly is made by Federal Mogel, which is a pretty good name, I dont see hardly any precision bearings come back, and remember they have a 3 year warranty over a 1 year warranty, but I may be a bit biased as that is where I work

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I'll try out the Precision brand this time around then, wasn't real happy with the MasterPro splitting in half while still on the car.

 

Funny story, the one and only time I attempted to order something off RockAuto, they double charged my card and never shipped the part I ordered. Ended up filing a claim with my bank to reverse the charges and the part never showed up, never even got a tracking number. Since then, I stay away from RockAuto.

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What size sway bars are the "good ones"? I can measure them while I'm under there to find out. And the springs by now are probably sagging and need replacing.
Kinda thinking 23mm. I may be wrong. The Euro 3.4 got the same size as was supplied on the Z34 option package. Just a matter of four doors versus two doors; and the four-doors didn't get the nicer grille, hood vents, and rear spoiler.
Plastic blocks? Anyone have a link to show me what those are?
http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/21004-Monoleaf-Pad-Thread-%28Part-Number-and-HowTo-Inside%29?p=969801&viewfull=1#post969801
The brakes on this car have always been kinda shitty, I just got used to judging braking distances to accommodate the slow stopping times in this thing. It's certainly no race car lol.
Verify that the rear calipers work properly, and are adjusted. THEN, install a rebuilt brake booster, and if needed, the formed rubber vacuum hose from upper intake manifold to booster. That ENDS the "shitty brake" problem.

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/32510-Hard-brake-pedal-no-stopping-power

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Kinda thinking 23mm. I may be wrong. The Euro 3.4 got the same size as was supplied on the Z34 option package. Just a matter of four doors versus two doors; and the four-doors didn't get the nicer grille, hood vents, and rear spoiler.

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/21004-Monoleaf-Pad-Thread-%28Part-Number-and-HowTo-Inside%29?p=969801&viewfull=1#post969801

 

Verify that the rear calipers work properly, and are adjusted. THEN, install a rebuilt brake booster, and if needed, the formed rubber vacuum hose from upper intake manifold to booster. That ENDS the "shitty brake" problem.

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/32510-Hard-brake-pedal-no-stopping-power

 

Cool, so I should be pretty set on most of the available upgrades then. Strut tower braces, sway bars, etc. Sounds like I just need new springs, struts, leaf pads, and bushings. I'll also check the trailing arms, as well. I like that tool you made for the leaf spring pads, I might have to make one of those for myself to do this :thumbsup:

 

As for the hard pedal, no braking power thing, mine doesn't exhibit the description you have there in that thread, it still stops just fine with one foot and not having to stand on it. I'm just used to the much stronger stopping power in my F/Y-bodies lol. By comparison, well, there isn't a comparison. But it doesn't sound like I have any actual issues with it.

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Slotted rotors won't make a stinkin' bit of difference in braking power. I have them on my '92. They don't warp like the previous rotors, but they don't stop any faster. Teflon-liner brake hoses make the brakes more controllable, but not more powerful. I have them on my '93; and I'll put them on the '92 at whatever point that I need to replace the hoses. How hard do you have to stand on the brake pedal to rattle the anti-lock? If it takes both feet...you need a new booster.

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Mmm haven't tested them any time recently to remember lol. People have stopped jumping out in front of me in this car thanks to the colorful paint job lol. I'll give them a test next drive.

 

This is a pic as it sits right now, just took it.

 

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post-9127-14368913896_thumb.jpg

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Got new Falken Ziex ZE-512 tires put on Sunday and last night installed the new nylon leaf spring pads. Much better cornering now and no squeaky leaf spring lol. Ordering a set of the KYB GR2/Excel-G shocks this Friday, should have those in next week for install. Will probably feel like a whole new car after that. :dance:

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