TGP full restoration, long term project

[EMNCFI]

So I was driving the TGP home yesterday. Drove it about 15 miles taking a coworker home, it did fine. Stopped there, started the 5 mile drive home. I drove for about a mile or two then thought that I saw some smoke behind me. Nothing too big, and looked back and it was gone. It kind of continued with the on and off smoking seeming to do it most while I was slowing down. Knowing that I thought, ok, it might be the rear brakes, although it was a lot more smoke than a brake locking up would cause. I got it home and parked it, had my wife lightly rev the engine to around 2k or so, sure enough smoke out of the tailpipes. The smoke kind of had a "hot" smell to it, like burning, but no real sweet smell. Engine performance was fine, good temp, good oil pressure, nice idle. If it was not for seeing the smoke I would never have thought something was wrong. Did some searching, and I think I am starting small and cheap to fix this and working up from there. Yesterday after reading up, I changed out the oil return line. I had to use high temp fuel/oil proof 5/8 hose. I want to get some hydraulic hose for it, but this was available on a Sat, so since its easy to change, I will see if it helps. The old line was "blistered" inside it, about 4 inches long, and when cold (off car) blocking about 1/3 of the hose. Going to take it out today, and see what happens. I ran it for about 15 min in the driveway yesterday, getting it up to temp, fans on, then back to normal temp. If this does not work, next up is the turbo.

Edited November 21, 2013 by EMNCFI

[BrianG]

Keep us posted on what you find! My TGP will suddenly out of nowhere drop a huge cloud of smoke out of the tailpipe, most often when I'm sitting at a stop light. It definitely smells and looks like oil smoke, but I still can't figure out a cause for it. That's the only time it will smoke too, at completely random times, a huge plume, and clean otherwise.

[EMNCFI]

Sounds like you have the same problem I have. I searched around for a solution, and all I found was threads about it smoking all the time. Since I got mine home it has yet to smoke as I have idled it in the driveway. Will take it for a drive tonight and see what it does post hose change. I do have to say though, that blistering in the oil return hose is interesting, looks really weird.

[Garrett Powered]

you hear about that all the time. I still have never seen it first hand, but replaced them on mine already.

[EMNCFI]

The hose that is correct? I had to use just a "patch" fuel/oil resistant rubber hose, going to get hydraulic line sometime this week. Unless it still smokes, then I might just have to put it out of its misery. I kind of want to get an SL65, but the wife says no more cars until one leaves.

[Garrett Powered]

I use the blue orange silicone

[White93z34]

I had the same thing happen to me, same blistering of the inside of the line. I bought mine from ATP turbo I think, Wanna say it was 5/8th and blue outside and either black or orange inside.

[EMNCFI]

5/8th is what is on there now, but like I said its only fuel/oil resistant line, looks like heater hose. Its not a permanent fix, but nowhere had the hose on Sat, so I need to order it online and had to create a band aid to get me around in it and to see if it fixed the problem

[Garrett Powered]

it will work for years. silicone is just rated a little better, but will eventually fail too.

 

that blistering shouldn't happen for 10 years or more

[BrianG]

I use the blue orange silicone

 

I think this is already what was put on my car before I owned it. I've had the turbo off a number of times, but never looked closely at this line for issues.

[EMNCFI]

Well drove it 9 miles yesterday, mostly highway, probably 2 miles of city. No smoke, no problems, still a little suspect though, just seems like too easy of fix for that kind of problem.

[Shifter23]

My first TGP that happened to me the seller thought he was dumping a junker until I checked the forums a couple bucks later it was just fine.

[EMNCFI]

Well my suspicion was correct. I got in the car today to drive it back, and now the low coolant light is on. So, oil is fine, and presently not smoking, I am really hoping its the lim gasket, as I have changed a few of those on a 60 degree V6s. Who thinks its just the LIM and who thinks it is the head gasket?

[Garrett Powered]

why you think that? because the low coolant light is on? that sensor is different than the ecm one. do you have a datalogger?

[White93z34]

check the level in the radiator before you go thinking head or lim gasket those sensors aren't the pinnacle of reliability

[EMNCFI]

Yea, never had any problems with the coolant level sensor though. So here is the plan when I get home: going to check the oil before starting it, if the oil looks ok, then I am going to start it and drive it the 8 miles home, probably late at night so its a little cooler out. Once home I will hook it up to ye old compression tester, that should tell me the whole story. Now should it be bad, what would a 1990 turbo with a bad head gasket and absolutely no rust at all be worth?

[EMNCFI]

Ok, so new news today. I did a compression check on it today, and here are the results: Back bank passenger to driver side= 170, 160, 165. Front back passenger to driver 80, 165, 175. I think we have a winner. I am now for sure thinking headgasket, but if any of you have any other ideas knowing what I found please let me know, as the car tear down starts tomorrow. I have yet to do the squirt of oil thing to check the rings, I know with only one low its usually an exhaust valve or something, but in this case could it be the gasket on the edge as opposed to between the cylinders? One exhaust valve bad would not make it smoke like it did, also I have oil in my coolant, and got the low coolant light. I guess if its the valve it still requires the head being pulled, which would make the gasket change necessary too. Thoughts? I hate to just kill off the car as its a TGP with no rust anywhere, its lived in a salt free environment its whole life.

Edited October 25, 2013 by EMNCFI

[tornado_735]

If you have the time, money, and know-how, it's absolutely worth saving. You just don't find cars like these anymore, and especially ones that haven't been attacked by the tin worm.

[EMNCFI]

Well crap, I did a "wet" test a second ago, and got the bad one up to 150, so I am guessing a ring problem. Which I have to pull the engine to fix I believe. Pulling an engine is something I have no knowledge about. I have done head gaskets before, so that was my hope , even if it was a bad valve, that would have just meant pulling the head and taking it to a machine shop, which would have been a minor cost. Now what to do. The wet test by the way yielded 150, and 165 on the 90 cylinder.

Edited October 25, 2013 by EMNCFI

[Garrett Powered]

there should be someone in town here if not up there.

[BrianG]

Pull the engine and take care of it!!! That car is definitely worth saving. I pulled my 3.1 many years ago with only basic mechanic knowledge. I'm sure you've got about the same, considering you're doing compression testing and understanding the results. Between that, and these boards, you've got everything you need to get the job done easily. The hardest part of pulling the 3.1 was the damn heater core lines. They're a pain to get off, and I suggest just cutting them from the get-go. Then, there's the throttle body warming lines which are a horrible design as well. Other than that, it's relatively easy. Go for it and take lots of pics!!!! Good luck!

[EMNCFI]

So if I were to give pulling the engine a try, is it easier to pull it with the tranny or leave the tranny in?

[redgrandprix]

i would say leave it in

[EMNCFI]

Ok, so this will become a new thread, I thought about a new thread, but I think I will modify this one to: My TGP restoration. The plan is that at the end of this, which will take a couple of years, I will have a totally restored show quality TGP. The project consists of the following: Engine rebuild, turbo rebuild, A/C swap to R134a and get it working, front seat refinish, wheel refinish, complete repaint, and then some small things like a new turbo blanket, getting the vacuum system leaks fixed. Step one has started, the turbo is out and sent off for rebuild, and while its out, I am doing the R134a swap.

[john koehler]

Every time I pull engines on these (my personal ones too) I ALWAYS pull the tranny with the engine. Likewise, I pull the engine when I need to service the tranny. If you are working without a lift, I find it easiest. I jack it up high, undo the exhaust manifold to downpipe bolts first, then drop it down to a workable height for engine pull. Everything else gets accessed from topside or wheelwells. Gotta remove the master cyl though, but if I am pulling the power package, might as well take care of a few other things... good luck!! Its easier than you think!!