2nd Generation W-Body Rear Brake Line

[DesertEagle50]

I'm looking at a 1998 Buick Century, and I'm asking myself, "What's the deal with the right (passenger's side) rear brake line?" This mf'er branches off from the row of brake and fuel lines by the fuel filter, goes up above the submember, does three loop-da-loops, runs above the submember to the right side of the vehicle, does three more loop-da-loops before emerging from the submember and heading towards the right drum brake.

 

I would imagine that all the curves are intended to keep the brake line from contacting the body or submember when the vehicle is on the road. I need to replace this brake line due to rust and the submember is also pretty rusty so I might as well replace that, too, so access should not be a problem. My question is do I need to duplicate all the bends in order to secure the fabricated brake line properly?

 

 

Also, does anyone have any tips for getting an even flare from the bulk rolls of brake lines? I can flare the straight sections without issue, but the slight curve in the rolls always seems to give me uneven flares. I have about 20 ft left from a roll I bought for a previous brake line repair before I gave up and bought straight sections.

 

Thanks!

[Schurkey]

"What's the deal with the right (passenger's side) rear brake line?"

GM does not waste money making parts more complex than they need to be. Duplicate every bend. They probably loop like that to provide vibration resistance--more area involved in the motion prevents localized stress and metal-fatigue.

 

 

does anyone have any tips for getting an even flare from the bulk rolls of brake lines? I can flare the straight sections without issue, but the slight curve in the rolls always seems to give me uneven flares. I have about 20 ft left from a roll I bought for a previous brake line repair before I gave up and bought straight sections.

The obvious answer is to do a better job of straightening the tubing before trying to flare it. There shouldn't be any curve from the point where your tool clamps the tubing, to the end of the tube.

[l67ss]

The loops are to help keep the brakes from pulsating plus they absorb a lil more shock that way

I'm looking at a 1998 Buick Century, and I'm asking myself, "What's the deal with the right (passenger's side) rear brake line?" This mf'er branches off from the row of brake and fuel lines by the fuel filter, goes up above the submember, does three loop-da-loops, runs above the submember to the right side of the vehicle, does three more loop-da-loops before emerging from the submember and heading towards the right drum brake.

 

I would imagine that all the curves are intended to keep the brake line from contacting the body or submember when the vehicle is on the road. I need to replace this brake line due to rust and the submember is also pretty rusty so I might as well replace that, too, so access should not be a problem. My question is do I need to duplicate all the bends in order to secure the fabricated brake line properly?

 

 

Also, does anyone have any tips for getting an even flare from the bulk rolls of brake lines? I can flare the straight sections without issue, but the slight curve in the rolls always seems to give me uneven flares. I have about 20 ft left from a roll I bought for a previous brake line repair before I gave up and bought straight sections.

 

Thanks!

[Crazy K]

put grease on the flair tool when you flair has always helped me.

 

I did a routing modification for the right rear lines in a gen 1, which is on those models the line attaches to the subframe. Instead I ran it against the body rail and attached it with clips that i drilled and bolted to the body. But unless you have a more flexible line than stock (I use copper nickel) it might be difficult to do such a mod. Make the wisest choice on what you do with the idea that safety is at stake.