l67ss Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Po could not get the brake lights to work in the taillights only in back glass so they just ran a wire from the third brake light to the taillights in the process they managed to cross some wires so the blinkers do not work i put in all new bulbs fuses multifunction switch and relay still nothing the hazards do work and if i hold the brake they will come on but i hav to manually flash them its like theres no power to the blinker switch help please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Actually, it sounds like the real problem is a bad turn signal switch...non-functional brake lights are a classic symptom in W-bodies. I just went through that very thing at the beginning of the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 yeah, that actual switch, not the stalk, is what i would look at. oh, and unfucking all of the hack wiring they did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Tried changing the switch its like theres no power to it i need to fiv out what they blew inline thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Which wire is the hotwire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 1, 2013 Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 i'm assuming the wire colors didn't change: pink has +12V when key is in run position orange has +12V at all times pink goes to fuse 30(10 amp) orange goes to fuse 5(15 amp) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 Thanks an f-load youve been very helpful i'm assuming the wire colors didn't change: pink has +12V when key is in run position orange has +12V at all times pink goes to fuse 30(10 amp) orange goes to fuse 5(15 amp) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted September 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2013 I HAVE BLINKERS !!!! Bubinga 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLazyRocket Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 Actually, it sounds like the real problem is a bad turn signal switch...non-functional brake lights are a classic symptom in W-bodies. I just went through that very thing at the beginning of the year. How much did it cost you total? I have the same classic problem.97 Cutlass supreme SL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Bout 80 bucks and 5 or 10 bucks at the jy guess which route i went How much did it cost you total? I have the same classic problem.97 Cutlass supreme SL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLazyRocket Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Bout 80 bucks and 5 or 10 bucks at the jy guess which route i went Nice! there are probably many there, but got to hope it doesn't have the same problem too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 I'm thinking it was around $65.00...mine needed the SWRC wires, which made it cost a bit more. Not 100% that price is correct, but it's close. How much did it cost you total? I have the same classic problem.97 Cutlass supreme SL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLazyRocket Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 I'm thinking it was around $65.00...mine needed the SWRC wires, which made it cost a bit more. Not 100% that price is correct, but it's close. Oh that's not bad at all, did you do it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Yes, it was my first signal switch replacement. There's a nice writeup elsewhere on the list. You'll need a lock plate compressor, and a steering wheel puller, most parts stores like Autozone will rent you one, then refund your money when you return it. Hardest parts are being careful with the airbag, and getting that stupid lock ring off of the steering shaft to remove the lockplate, without destroying it. Oh that's not bad at all, did you do it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted September 12, 2013 Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 Took just under 3 hours...but I was being VERY careful, slow, and methodical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted September 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2013 <no airbags i used a couple screwdrivers and a pick to do mine Yes, it was my first signal switch replacement. There's a nice writeup elsewhere on the list. You'll need a lock plate compressor, and a steering wheel puller, most parts stores like Autozone will rent you one, then refund your money when you return it. Hardest parts are being careful with the airbag, and getting that stupid lock ring off of the steering shaft to remove the lockplate, without destroying it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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