Did GM use the same MAF sensor on all V6's?

[Nas Escobar]

So recently, my 94 Cutlass 3.4 DOHC has been having this weird idle issue whenever I start the car. Once the engine is warm, it's all good but I have this weird feeling that the car is running rich at startup since there's a noticeable smell of gas whenever the car is started in the morning. It doesn't do this once the car is at normal operating temp (200F).

 

I'm not sure if the car needs a new TPS or a MAF but I'm getting ready to change both. Now I've noticed that the MAF sensor on the 3400, the 3100, and I think the 3800 are the same style as the one in my 3.4 DOHC. So I must ask.... did GM use the same MAF on all of its engines? Would there be no issue if I went to the yard and got a MAF out of an Impala or a Grand Prix or are the MAF sensors different?

 

All help is appreciated.

[RobertISaar]

series 2 3800 is definitely different from the MAFs the 60V6 engines used. the series 1 3800 probably is as well.

 

from the looks of it on rockauto:

 

most 96+ 3100/3400s(so none of the weird 94-96 A-body setups)

94-96 B-bodys with the LT1

a lot of 96+ 4.3 applications

3.5 shortstar

 

those all seem to be the same sensor.

[Nas Escobar]

I see. So so long I get the MAF from the same era 60 deg v6 or an LT1 I'll be okay?

 

My local yard has a lot of those in stock, especially the 2000-2005 Impala so I'm really considering that move.

[RobertISaar]

well, IIRC, the F and Y body LT1 is a different sensor, it wasn't in the interchange.

 

but yes, 00-05 3400s would be a good place to start.

[Schurkey]

So recently, my 94 Cutlass 3.4 DOHC has been having this weird idle issue whenever I start the car. Once the engine is warm, it's all good but I have this weird feeling that the car is running rich at startup since there's a noticeable smell of gas whenever the car is started in the morning. It doesn't do this once the car is at normal operating temp (200F).

 

I'm not sure if the car needs a new TPS or a MAF but I'm getting ready to change both.

The obvious answer is to do your diagnostics BEFORE buying the replacement parts.

 

"I" would be leaning towards a coolant temperature sensor; if the problem is only when the engine is cold.

 

A REAL scan-tool and some time with the service manual would solve this.

[Nas Escobar]

The obvious answer is to do your diagnostics BEFORE buying the replacement parts.

 

"I" would be leaning towards a coolant temperature sensor; if the problem is only when the engine is cold.

 

A REAL scan-tool and some time with the service manual would solve this.

 

The fact that this car has NO place to connect one (that I know of) makes the scan tool idea something that can't really be considered. I've looked under the driver's side of the dash and found nothing. Even so, where would I find an ODB1 scanner?

 

It's really sad though, because if I leave the car idling for about 5 to 10 minutes and the RPM's fluctuate long enough, I get the SES light, but once I drive the car it disappears so no real way to know the "stored code" (i've been told ODB1 doesn't store codes).

[RobertISaar]

if you don't have an ALDL connector, someone removed it. should be right above where your right shin would be.

 

and OBD1 does store codes.

[Nas Escobar]

if you don't have an ALDL connector, someone removed it. should be right above where your right shin would be.

 

and OBD1 does store codes.

 

So it's closer to the center console than the under the steering wheel? Most of my cars have had that connector either towards the left or the center.

 

Now suppose the p.o. did make this dick move and took off the ALDL connector. How do I add it back?

[RobertISaar]

well, you'll get to source the connector from another car(another W-body would be what i would go for) and solder in 4 wires, if you can find them.

[Nas Escobar]

I found it, but it has.... 3 wires... Idk what to do now

[RobertISaar]

3 can be correct, depending on the vehicle. all you really need are the A and M pin, everything else is vehicle specific.

[Nas Escobar]

Well here is the ODB1 plug on my car. 3 plugs so idk which ones to jump. I tried the top and bottom and it wouldn't blink. Then I tried the 2 on the bottom and same result. The 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible wasn't ODB1.5 was it?

 

 

[RobertISaar]

no W-body was ever 1.5. it may have been refered to that in the past, but it was incorrect.

 

the 94-95 3.4 don't blinkout codes on the SES like some earlier cars did.

[Nas Escobar]

no W-body was ever 1.5. it may have been refered to that in the past, but it was incorrect.

 

the 94-95 3.4 don't blinkout codes on the SES like some earlier cars did.

 

So in this situation..... how do I find out what triggers the "SES" light the next time I cold start it and I let it boggle the way it usually does? Because once this car gets to 200F the car drives smoothly with no issues at all. Cuz it also disappears after a while, it's not a light that stays on like the ODB2. It clears itself.

[RobertISaar]

scanner or ALDL cable.

 

the light shuts off when the error condition is no longer present. it will still be stored as a history error code though.

[Nas Escobar]

How does the ALDL cable work? Do I still need a scanner for it?

[RobertISaar]

ALDL cable simply interfaces from the ECM to a laptop to allow a computer to read data. the "scanner" portion of it is all done through software. i use and recommend tunerpro rt.

[Nas Escobar]

Would you be able to link me to a good ALDL cable?

[RobertISaar]

depends how much you want to spend.

 

Moates makes a bulletproof cable, but you'll be spending $80 for both halves of it.

[Nas Escobar]

Well what is a good cable that is economical, yet robust and simple to use?

[RobertISaar]

mine.

 

i'm biased though. $45 shipped with 5 of it going towards keeping the forum running without Luke paying for it out of pocket.

 

it would be a couple of weeks before i would have another ready though.