Senor PuffPuff Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Well, like I said - I just can't catch a break with this car. Before I could even attempt to fix the transmission, my exhaust broke off about 3 inches back from the 2nd O2 sensor. So, my car is so loud it could give a top-fuel dragster a good run for it's money. Anyways, does anyone know approximately what it would cost to replace the entire exhaust system from the heads back? I figure I might as well do it all at once rather than do cat-back now and then have to replace the exhaust manifolds later. If it's going to cost too much, I'm just going to use it as an excuse to finally get a turbo kit. This is for an '01 Impala LS, but I'm assuming it would be about the same cost as a GP, Bonneville, Monte, etc. exhaust system because they all have pretty much the same exhaust system. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 My recommendation would be just hit up a yard for a used exhaust But if you want a full upgrade Speeddaddy headers $250-$300 Magnaflow high flow cat $50-$100 Find a exhaust shop for a custom 2.5 catback $200-$400 including mufflers Total $800ish Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senor PuffPuff Posted July 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 Well, I work at a Ford dealership and they can basically put the exhaust together for me and I don't pay for labour so I'll be saving a bunch of money there. A complete L36 turbo kit is $3,100 so I might just spring for that if I can decide whether I want to keep pouring money into this Impala or maybe I'm going to trade it in for a newer GTP/Bonneville SSEi. I'll keep you updated. Thanks for the help, Jake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted July 13, 2013 Report Share Posted July 13, 2013 I vote turbo kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudlark Posted July 14, 2013 Report Share Posted July 14, 2013 Well more or less you would have to loosen your pocket a bit to get it done better and perfectly!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senor PuffPuff Posted July 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 I found a nice high-performance downpipe/cat for only $160 that a Toronto muffler shop put together, and I'm going to pick it up this morning. I'll post pics, maybe I'll turn this into a thread to show what I'm doing with my exhaust. Anyways, I've gotta be cheap about it because I have some debt to pay off as well so I'm just going to get that downpipe, use the stock resonator, and then route the exhaust so it exits just before the passenger side rear tire. I couldn't find any S/C dual exhaust so I'm just going to run a single pipe for now and maybe someday I'll have saved up the money for a turbo system. For now though, this is gonna have to do because I can't keep driving without mufflers and I can't spring for a full turbo kit and the stock exhaust is boring so I'm gonna do it my way. I'll keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted July 20, 2013 Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 That'll suit you just fine for now. No sense going all out if you're undecided on the future goals. Anything to get it back to quiet over no mufflers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senor PuffPuff Posted July 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 Oh, I'm not looking for quiet by any means. I'm just looking to be safe for when I get pulled over for excessive noise and a cop looks under my car he doesn't see the huge hole right after the cat lol. Ended up hitting the you-pull yard today and found myself a surveillance mode relay from a police package Impala though. I'm just hoping this little relay is all I need, because the light switch itself looked basically the same as the LS light switch except that the fog light button is replaced by the "Surv Mode" button. Gonna try and find some wiring diagrams from the Police Packages and compare them to the LS wiring diagrams to try and make sure that this relay is the only difference. As for the exhaust, I wasn't able to find a decent O2 sensor at the you-pull so I just went to Partsource and got a new one. Now I'm too broke to afford the rest of the pipe I need, and also the hanger so it's going to be a couple more weeks until I can afford to do the exhaust. I'll keep you updated, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairdo12 Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 Time to drive over the border to M&M u pull it. Complete exhaust with manifolds, pipes and mufflers for probably $60 tops. You can't buy cat converters from salvage yards here so that's the only thing new you need. Tons of impalas and Grand Prix on hand: http://www.mmupullit.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senor PuffPuff Posted July 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 I wouldn't suppose anyone can tell me an easier way to remove the downpipe bolts from the exhaust manifold than what Haynes says? In the Haynes manual it's telling me I need to turn the engine to get at the bolts but I'm really not looking forward to having to pull the engine at all. I'm thinking maybe a long breaker bar, a torch, and some penetrating oil (designed for use with torches, of course)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l67ss Posted July 22, 2013 Report Share Posted July 22, 2013 Try lowering the rear of the subframe should give u more wiggle room Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AL Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 I would soak it in PB or Liquid wrench... But if you take the dog bones off and rock the engine back, you can get a long extension up to the bolts, it really takes a pair to break them loose though, just a fore warning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 on a level area! undo the dogbone mount(s) and under the car loosen the lower mounts to a point but leave the nuts on and then leaving the car in neutral you can push or pull the vehicle to rotate the engine as needed, someone ready to set the parking brake when position is good helps ALOT(Not any riskier than doing suspension work without a spring compressor, just remember if you hear a loud metallic pop in the process you did it wrong and will now need a new rear exhaust manifold:lol:). For all the trouble just get a custom cat-back with dual outlets like any L67 w-body. Single side outlet exhaust screams HALF-ASSED and looks just as bad if not worse than those little Hondas with 5in diameter mufflers. Do it right and relocate your fuel filter and lines and have it exiting both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senor PuffPuff Posted July 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) Well if I was going to go dual, I would rather just go TRUE dual so for now this is going to be fine. I have big plans for this car, which include replacing the exhaust anyways which is another reason why I'm just looking to do this on the cheap. And, I was looking and I'm thinking that maybe I can get a propane torch on those studs if I'm careful, along with some liquid torch, I could possibly break them loose with a breaker bar by putting it through the top of the engine bay but it's a wierd angle so I might have to do it from the ground first. Edited July 24, 2013 by Senor PuffPuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake91 Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 True dual are NOT what you want This is what you want IMO best sounding exhaust for a 3800 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted July 24, 2013 Report Share Posted July 24, 2013 True dual are NOT what you want Holy flatulent lawnmower:lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Senor PuffPuff Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 (edited) Meh, I prefer the single pipe anyways on these cars. At least when running the stock cam. I ended up getting the studs off, since I work at a Ford dealership (I know, don't hate me too much!) they were able to get them off for me after about 8 hours of labor (which I don't pay for). Wasn't able to hook up the resonator though because my exhaust clamp crushed the inlet so after work I'm going to get one and stick it on. BY THE WAY... The studs are accessible from under the car (without moving the engine or dropping the sub-frame) if you can raise the car up enough to get underneath. Just cut off your old downpipe to allow you some more room and cover the studs with liquid wrench. Also, welding a hex nut on the stud helps you remove them a LOT easier, although I wasn't able to do that since we have no welder at work but vice grips and a torch work almost as good. EDIT : Another question - has anyone ever had to put a hanger on their resonator? I got my resonator on yesterday but as it's MUCH heavier than the one which was on before, it's hanging down at the exit end (no tailpipe yet) and just about 2-3 inches off the ground. I almost hooked it up on the sidewalk as I backed out of the driveway yesterday, which would have been tremendously disastrous. The problem I'm having is that there isn't really anything under the car to hang the resonator from, other than the frame/body rails near the sides of the car and it's going to be really hard to get enough tension on the strapping I'm using (temporarily) to hang the resonator until I can get a tailpipe out the side. Edited July 27, 2013 by Senor PuffPuff adding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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