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repairing ruptured coolant pipe


Chris2012

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It starts out in life as rubber, then becomes metal. Runs underneath the overflow bottle (1992 3.1 Lumina). I was just going to cut the pipe, then put a piece of 3/4" heater hose and 2 clamps. Whaddaya think?

 

It broke on a really cold night last winter. Smushed epoxy putty worked pretty well until it got hot.

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If you use a rubber hose, you may have problems with rubbing.

I'd prefer to use 3/4" Copper Type-L Pipe (~$25 at Home Depot).

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-Streamline-3-4-in-x-60-in-Copper-Type-L-Pipe-LH06005/100345178

3872b95b-6d03-4c06-a7b7-86ca9c766de3_300.jpg

 

Make sure you get the L type, and not the thinner M type. :)

 

 

You could put one end in a vise, and use a towel, along with heavy gloves, to bend the free end. Avoid using grip pliers, etc, since they can crush and damage the pipe. You'd likely need to heat the pipe with Propane/MAPP gas to bend it properly. Note, you must wear heavy leather gloves. It's easy for your hand to slip and get a very nasty burn.

 

 

I would use a pipe bender or a conduit bender. :) It's safer (less likely to damage/bend the pipe) and easier. :)

Of course, a 3/4" pipe bender is the best way to bend the pipe. And, no heating would be required.

Or, use a 3/4" conduit bender. That would also work fine. And, again, no heat required.

 

They are a few 3/4" conduit benders on ebay for ~$25. Search for:

3/4" conduit bender

You'd need to add a 3/4" handle.

 

If you search on ebay for

3/4" pipe bender

you'll find some used ones for ~~$35 (incl S&H) with handle.

 

Or, new from Home Depot for ~$45 with handle.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-3-4-in-Conduit-Bender-and-Handle-56207/100660160

e3aeecd9-c137-403b-8da1-81e6588bc50b_300.jpg

 

 

 

Hey, even with getting everything from Home Depot, it would still be cheaper than 1 hour of mechanics time. :) And, that new pipe section will outlast the car. Better to do it once, and do it right.

 

Good Luck!

Edited by Cutlass350
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I just removed the entire assembly and ran soft heater hose from where it exits the water pump and plugged it into the heater core.

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  • 2 weeks later...
i thought the replacement pipe was discontinued? at any rate, mine is also a rubber hose all the way now

That was my doing on that car. lol

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On mine, it ruptured a couple of inches above the crimp...so I got a metal sleeve, and hose clamped that in place.

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That was my doing on that car. lol

 

i had replaced it with a nos part on my cutlass. When I got your tgp I decided the full rubber line was superior, the factory part was already starting to rust

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The original part is GM # 10145142. There's an aftermarket Dorman replacement, #626-100. They run about $30 shipped on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DORMAN-626-100-Heater-Hose-/390597626865?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af16ecbf1&vxp=mtr

 

A rubber hose might last longer, but the OEM style part should also last at least a decade.

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Sounds like a good piece of information for the Part Number sticky...

The original part is GM # 10145142. There's an aftermarket Dorman replacement, #626-100. They run about $30 shipped on eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DORMAN-626-100-Heater-Hose-/390597626865?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af16ecbf1&vxp=mtr

 

A rubber hose might last longer, but the OEM style part should also last at least a decade.

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Hopefully a mod will add it.

Price went up on that eBay one since I posted it last night. Here's a cheaper one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DORMAN-626-100-Heater-Hose-/221211408992?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33813a3a60&vxp=mtr

 

$30 shipped actually seems quite reasonable to me and I'd probably just get an OEM style replacement.

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