Wheel bearing issue

[JimMadsen]

Replacing driver front wheel bearing but hit a snag:

 

Do I need a bearing with the abs wire? My car has abs but all of the ones I am finding at rockauto, amazon, autozone, napa... do not have the wire and state abs N/A or are blank, all of the sites say it fits my car.

 

Service manual states to use the wire. I would really like to get this one: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1288183 There is a Timkin one at RA that states "Front; ABS Sensor Part Of Axle Assembly; 4-Wheel ABS" but the pictures do not show a wire. Is there a spot I plug the sensor into after taking it off the current one?

 

I called autozone and they said I can buy a abs ring separate at $50, called napa and they said not a clue.

 

Sorry bout starting the new thread, but the question does not apply as much to the previous tire rubbing thread I started and I wanted to make sure it is seen.

 

Thanks

[White93z34]

I'm going to assume you are talking gen1 W-body???

 

the sensor can be swapped over. the ABS ring is on your axles.

 

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1114370&cc=1255766

 

that is what your ABS sensor looks like it uses the upper knuckle to wheel bearing bolts to hold it on and it uses the 2 pins in the top of the wheel bearing as a guide for alignment. sometimes they get rusted in and you can use a 3/8s extension and a small hammer to drive it out then just put it back when you put the new one in it.

[JimMadsen]

Sorry,

 

98 lumina LS 3.1

 

gen 2 I think

Edited June 17, 2013 by JimMadsen

[White93z34]

Close enough... still applies. You can swap the old ABS sensor over.

[JimMadsen]

Thanks. I will get the one I am looking at then. Do I need the axle tool in the service manual? Forgot the name but it pushes the spindle through the bearing. Nobody around me is renting it and I think it is @ $30.

[LumiLTZ]

I've never needed the axle tool... I hit the area where the axle goes thru with some pb blaster and a couple light whacks with a hammer got the axle to come loose. Just be careful and if it is really stuck, then you might need the puller. When I re-installed the new bearing, I put a little grease on the axle splines so that the axle would slide into the bearing easier.

[White93z34]

I put the nut back on the axle and put the socket over it, few good blows and if it was stuck it isn't any more.

[JimMadsen]

I put the nut back on the axle and put the socket over it, few good blows and if it was stuck it isn't any more.

 

Sounds good to me as I had to get a 34mm impact socket for this job. I do not have to worry too much about cracking the boot or anything, correct?

 

Any advice on how to best get the bearing bolts out? I have a harbor freight electric impact wrench that hasn't failed me yet but is kinda big. I do not have a large enough compressor to run air. I do have a 2 foot 1/2" breaker bar. Probably just hit them with liquid wrench and go eat lunch? I do not want to torch anything that close to the rubber boots.

 

Thanks

[AL]

I believe its a 35mm socket that you need, also, I have never had a problem breaking the nuts loose that hold the bearing on, liquid wrench will definitely help though

[White93z34]

If you want to go all out, wire brush the ends of the bolts where they poke through the front of the wheel bearing, hit them with liquid wrench. I've never had too much trouble with them.

[JimMadsen]

While the description did not say what size socket, on amazon it is bought "with" the 34mm socket. Oh well, if it does not fit, will get the 35mm one. I actually got the nut from rockauto since 2 there was only a few dollars more than 1 at amazon.

 

The service manual also does not say the size, and it is also missing the torque specs. Any ideas?

[LumiLTZ]

I ended up using a 36mm that I've had forever...it was a little loose, but it did the job and didn't slip/strip.

 

Found GOT2BGM's writeup, torque spec on the axle nut is 160ft/lb. Other specs are in the writeup.

 

http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/76455-1st-Gen-amp-1-5-Gen-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Replacement

[JimMadsen]

Thats more detailed then the service manual!

 

Thanks

[JimMadsen]

I am 90% of the way there. I have the axle nut off (was 35mm) and the 4 bearing bolts off. The abs bolt is still on, but that should be simple.

 

My problem now is the caliper. To make it easier, I removed the brake part itself to give me more room to work. But the caliper frame bolts (with the torx head) are stuck in place. I am spraying a lot of penetrating oil on it and can do heat if I have to.

 

I have never had this much of a issue taking off a caliper. Any advice?

 

Oh and the nut I got from rock auto was the wrong size, no where close. Guy at napa said I can use the old one if it appears undamaged. Good advice? I would still replace later on when I find one, but nobody carries it and obviously rock auto has it wrong as well.

[JimMadsen]

Woohoo got the bottom one off. had to use my allen wrench which is about 8 inches then I used the strut extension rod tool over that and then the arm from my jack giving me about 3 feet of torque length. That and lots of liquid wrench.

 

Now I can bring that bolt to the store and get the proper sized star bit to do the job right. Gonna let the top one sit some more before I get it with the right bit.

 

When I put it all back together, it calls for 160lbs on the spindle nut (which moves freely in the current bearing so it should slip right off) but my torque wrench only goes up to 80. I assume I can just stand on the breaker bar and give it 200lbs? It was concerning when I barely had to put any pressure on it to get it off!

 

 

 

edit:

And it is done. thanks all for the help

Edited June 22, 2013 by JimMadsen

[xennith]

On the topic of wheel bearings... Does anyone have a brand preference? There is a big price jump at Autozone. $60 for duralast vs. $87 for Timken.

[Nas Escobar]

I got a Moog for my 94 Cutlass for $60. So far it works good. I know others that use Moog too wit no problems.

[Imp558]

1. Moog has the best warranty. the first gen ones don't appear to be sealed, so they're destined for failure no matter what we run.
   

[xennith]

Thanks, I haven't heard of Moog. I'll look into them.

[Imp558]

Try RockAuto.com

[l67ss]

put anti sieze on evthing

[GnatGoSplat]

Amazon was a lot cheaper than Rockauto last time I needed one.