mediabandit Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 If I have a second motor with good coils packs and I need to replace 1 on my Z34, can I take one off the other motor if it is not the same numbers on the coil? What I mean is that on the other mother the bolt holding the coil with number 1 and 2 on it is rounded off. So I will need to take the coil with 3 and 4 written on it to put on my Z where the coil with 1 and 2 is. Hope I made that clear enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 it will work just fine... just need to keep in mind which wires go to which set of coilpacks since you'll have 2 that will have the same cylinder designations. 1/4, 2/5, 3/6. not that you're able to see it under there, but the ICM itself does have small markings under/nearly under where the coils sit for the cylinders that they operate. or at least the GM/Delco ones do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediabandit Posted June 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 Great, thanks. I wanted to make sure it would be fine before I kept going with the job. Thanks Robert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted June 16, 2013 Report Share Posted June 16, 2013 yeah, the numbers on them aren't going to matter if you swap them, as long as you remember where the wires went when you took off the old ones. It could say "elephant/pickle" and it'd still work just fine with the correct wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 i find elephant to work best on cylinder 4 of a LQ1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted June 17, 2013 Report Share Posted June 17, 2013 ^:lol: If anything you can always scratch the existing numbers off and etch new ones in. Ive replaced all my coils with practically brand new ones I come across at the yards. (People throwing new parts at failed gasket only to junk the car after $500 worth of electrical shit went in it.) IIRC GM uses the same coil for most of their V6 FWD engines and its said to be one of the best ignition systems out their even compared with the aftermarket junk people put on their Hondas and nissans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RareGMFan Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 The VAST majority of the GM coils are the same/interchangeable. The stock coils are definitely better than cheapo aftermarket ones, or even "performance" ones like MSD (which are junk, BTW). In fact, if you want "performance" coils, find a set off of an L67. The supercharged motors got a slightly higher voltage version of the coils (part #D576 instead of D555). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 18, 2013 Report Share Posted June 18, 2013 i'm not so certain of the validity of L67 coils being better... since the claim is higher output voltage, the turn ratio on the secondary side compared to the primary would need to be higher than a normal coil. to do this and still maintain the same resistance on the seconary side(this comes a little later), either a better equally sized conductor would be needed or the wire would have to be larger. http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/177643-where-do-i-buy-msd-coil-packs-l67.html according to that, no noticable difference on primary or secondary side measurements. IIRC, a higher turn ratio would also cut down on secondary current, which would be bad. plugs and wires would last longer, but the spark wouldn't be as fat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediabandit Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 So I got the coil packs replaced, I changed one at a time and then tried starting the car. After the first one, it didn't start but after changing the second one it fired right up. The problem I am having now is that as soon as you put it in drive and give her any amount of gas she will stall. Even when you are sitting in Park and you rev the gas it will not go past 3000rpm it just stops there almost like there is a cutoff. Any ideas what could be causing this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 there is a 3000RPM park/neutral rev limiter.... sounds like you're running into that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediabandit Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 But it happens when you are driving too. As long as you don't give her much gas (just above idle) she will go down the road fine, but as soon as you give her more she bogs and stalls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 kind of sounds like a bad TPS(assuming the plug wires and plugs themselves are in good shape). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediabandit Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Could that have went when the coil pack blew? And where is i, if I need to replace it. I have a second motor I can take parts off of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 http://i.imgur.com/teaRart.png if the problem happened at the exact same time as the coil pack going out, i wouldn't suspect TPS as being the cause, but it takes 2 minutes to swap them. it's possible that the dying coilpack took out a plug wire or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediabandit Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I replaced all the plugss and wires when I replaced the coil. I will try changing the TPS and if that doesn't work I will put the old plugs and wires back on I guess. One of the new ones may be bad. I replaced the plugs with GM #7's gaped at .045 I had them gaped at .060 initially then tried .045 after the initial start up test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediabandit Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Could this be caused by one of the vaccuum hoses on the back of the plenum being unplugged? Far left side of plenum in the back. Small 1/4" hose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mediabandit Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 So I just went back down and changed the plugs back to the old ones and the car wouldn't start, put the new ones back in and it still won't start. I guess I will tear everything apart again and replace the last coil pack and see if that will help I guess. Do you have any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Could this be caused by one of the vaccuum hoses on the back of the plenum being unplugged? Far left side of plenum in the back. Small 1/4" hose. that sounds like the "vacuum module" which is where the MAP sensor is located on 91-93 cars.... if that's not sealed up well, expect all kinds of issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RareGMFan Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 i'm not so certain of the validity of L67 coils being better... since the claim is higher output voltage, the turn ratio on the secondary side compared to the primary would need to be higher than a normal coil. to do this and still maintain the same resistance on the seconary side(this comes a little later), either a better equally sized conductor would be needed or the wire would have to be larger. http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/vt-vx-holden-commodore-1997-2002/177643-where-do-i-buy-msd-coil-packs-l67.html according to that, no noticable difference on primary or secondary side measurements. IIRC, a higher turn ratio would also cut down on secondary current, which would be bad. plugs and wires would last longer, but the spark wouldn't be as fat. I don't know what the actual data is on it, but I wasn't suggesting it as a serious upgrade. Just saying even the stockers are better than MSDs, so if you're going to "upgrade" them, you're better off buying L67 ones from the yard for the same price as the regular stock coils than you are buying any of these aftermarket "performance" ones, which are known for poor quality components. Certainly didn't mean he should expect to feel a difference, as coils really aren't going to make a world of difference at this power level anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 that i can agree with... used OEM DIS coilpacks tend to outshine any of the aftermarket, both cheap stock replacements and "performance" units like accel and MSD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markspend01 Posted August 5, 2013 Report Share Posted August 5, 2013 Hey Guys well i think that's amazing info about coil packs.Thanks!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 What is the resistance range for testing our coils? Might come up in the future and a search didn`t come up with the numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted September 15, 2013 Report Share Posted September 15, 2013 primary is something like .3 to .4 ohms, secondaries are 5,000-10,000 ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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