L36 Fuel Pump -> L67

[GP1138]

OK, so I've seen several different opinions on this throughout the interwebs.

 

Yesterday I got into my car after work and turned my key to ON, and heard my fuel pump sputter and die. I managed to beat it and get it to work and get me home, but once I shut the car off it refused to start again. So my fuel pump is dead.

 

Some backstory.. my original pump died back in '11 when I bought this car. I went to a junkyard and bought a Park Avenue Ultra pump, swapped the actual pump itself into my GTP canister and it's been to Chicago, NYC, and FL with zero problems. I didn't expect it to last even that long, but I'm glad it did.

 

Now I'm planning on doing that same thing again, but hopefully with a pump that has not been sitting dry for some time like the one I got. The issue I'm running into is that there seems to be ZERO of these pumps from supercharged cars to choose from. Literally every yard I've called has told me to pound sand when I tell them I need one from a supercharged car.

 

Reading the nets, I'm seeing most people who've done L67 swaps have been running on the stock pump for their car with zero problems. If I went out and bought an L36 pump and swapped it in, do you think I'd see any issues?

 

I did have a hit on a GTP pump for $125 yesterday at one place, so that's my first choice, but in case I get there and they've not got it anymore, is a GT pump out of the question?

[GP1138]

Actually, from what I'm reading, a pump from a Tahoe 5.7L will work just fine in this as well. I'll give this a try.

[Andrew]

i thought the GTP had a 2 speed pump, L36 a single speed. Hence the need for the resistor in the fender.

[GP1138]

They later eliminated the resistor and just ran the pumps at high speed 100% of the time -- mine is bypassed.

 

Regal pump plugs in and works 100% -- aside from the level sender which is incompatible with my cluster -- I'll just get a new cluster.