PTAaron Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) Hey everyone, first post here - but I've run across the page more than a few times on google searches. I'm borrowing my in-laws' 1994 Cutlass Supreme while I get my '88 Merkur XR4Ti up and running again, and I've been having some issues. The car's gas mileage has dropped of dramatically, rough idle, smells like gasoline when sitting at idle, occasional stalling when I hit the gas after sitting at a stop light when the engine is not fully warmed up, and some real roughness when cruising at a constant speed on the expressway. My first thought was O2 sensor, I picked one up but have not installed it yet. I did however replace the spark plugs - which showed me 6 really old plugs that all had gasoline on them. I've worked on Merkurs for years... almost 20 years... so I'm not new to working on cars, but this was something I haven't run across in a fuel injected car before. Would this be a symptom of a bad O2 sensor, or should I be looking somewhere else? The car does not blow black smoke like I would expect from something running majorly rich, but there seems to be a lot of fuel being dumped into the engine. Yes, the car is throwing a code every now and then - but I don't have a code reader for this computer style... if it was an EEC IV or OBDII I'd be all set Any thoughts would be great. Thank you! Edited April 25, 2013 by PTAaron Editing year of car... just learned it is a '94 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 I'll bet you have a code reader somewhere. Use a paperclip and short the two terminals on the ALDL right next to each other when the car is key on engine off, SES light will flash. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t679458-obd_i_code_retrieval_and_typical_code_list.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Check the codes like John said, its easy enough. Sounds like it could be anything from a bad ECT to some bad fuel injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTAaron Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 I'll bet you have a code reader somewhere. Use a paperclip and short the two terminals on the ALDL right next to each other when the car is key on engine off, SES light will flash. http://www.automotiveforums.com/t679458-obd_i_code_retrieval_and_typical_code_list.html Well that sounds ridiculously easy. I figured there was an easy way to do it! I will do this at lunch time today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTAaron Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) Check the codes like John said, its easy enough. Sounds like it could be anything from a bad ECT to some bad fuel injectors. ECT is a new one to me, what does that stand for? EDIT: Never mind, my brain just kicked back in... coolant temp sensor right? My engine temp gauge does seem to wildly swing for no apparent reason... Edited April 24, 2013 by PTAaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted April 24, 2013 Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Engine is gargling on gasoline like you say, you might as well be prepared to order a new catalytic converter, too. Don't install it until the engine is running right again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTAaron Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 Engine is gargling on gasoline like you say, you might as well be prepared to order a new catalytic converter, too. Don't install it until the engine is running right again. Good to know, I will keep that in mind. I tried to go pull the codes on my lunch... and... yeah... the connector is broken. There is no wire in one of the holes where I am supposed to stick the end of the paperclip, but I can see the actual wire going up to the connector. Apparently at some point my father in-law must have messed with it. Unfortunately we don't have a socket set here at work so I couldn't take things apart to get to the wire on the back of the plug. I guess I'll have to wait until I get home tonight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTAaron Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) Okay guys - maybe I'm mentally challenged... I unbolted the connector under the dash, and where the above linked directions say to stick a jumper - one of the cables is not there. This is what my connector looks like - and there are only 3 wires there - 2 in the far right holes above each other (A and M), and one more in the bottom row (I?) as you can see: What do I have to jumper to get the codes from this one? Okay... I did more research - this is a OBD 1.5 interface? Apparently my father in-law got the years wrong, and this car is a '94 according to my wife. Edited April 25, 2013 by PTAaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Are you 100% sure its a 93? mine is a 95 and I have the same style pinouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTAaron Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Are you 100% sure its a 93? mine is a 95 and I have the same style pinouts. I edited the post to add that my wife told me it is a '94. My father inlaw had said it was a '93 when he loaned it to me originally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Psych0matt Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 94 will not be able to do the paper clip trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 94 will not be able to do the paper clip trick Well shit thats what i had planned on doing today. Since the clip trick will not work, what scanner would be good and inexpensive to pull codes from? At AZ there is one for about $20 or $30 that says it will scan up to `93 GM but we all know everything started changing between `93 and `95-`96 so:shrug:. Would it be safe to consider the 1994 Olds a OBD 1.25? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Since the clip trick will not work, what scanner would be good and inexpensive to pull codes from? No such thing--depending on your definition of "inexpensive". At AZ there is one for about $20 or $30 that says it will scan up to `93 GM There's a difference between a cheap-junk "code reader" and a scan tool. There's a difference between consumer-grade junk scan tools, and professional-level scan tools. You are WAY better off dropping some money on a REAL scan tool (professional grade, used from Craigslist or eBay or whatever) than buying a crappy code reader. Consumer-grade scan tools may not tell you the REAL code, substituting the generic code instead. A crap code-reader doesn't get you into the computer data stream, you can't see the inputs and outputs of the ecm. A used-but-working professional-level scan tool with sufficient software to go to 1999 or so might cost $250--$400. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTAaron Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 (edited) Since I won't be spending $250-400 on a code reader, I'll forget about codes for a minute. Are there any really obvious culprits I should be focusing on for unburnt fuel on the spark plugs? Am I thinking the right way with the O2 sensor? I'm kind of questioning that since I would expect a SES light to pop up more often than it does. Now it will pretty predictably light up when I'm slowing down coming to an exit ramp after a bit of time on an expressway, but it still will pop on randomly while driving around down. EDIT: I will be picking up a coolant temp sensor this weekend and installing that first. Edited April 25, 2013 by PTAaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTAaron Posted May 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 Okay - I've replaced the ECT, plugs, air filter, and reset the computer. The car now idles extremely smooth, but I'm still getting a gasoline smell when sitting at stoplights/stop signs. I haven't done the O2 sensor yet - I wanted to test things like this first. Couple of new questions: Is there an easy way to test the fuel pressure regulator? I don't know much (or anything really) about cars with automatic transmissions - when I can help it I will only drive manual transmissions - but I'm guessing a '94 cutlass automatic has overdrive? It seems like whenever it kicks into "overdrive" on the expressway the car starts vibrating so bad the dash sounds like it is going to fall apart. I can let go of the steering wheel and there is no shake though. Could this be related to my other problems, or is there something else I need to look into? Is there a way to make it NOT go into overdrive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTAaron Posted May 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2013 Not that anyone is following this thread - but I got everything sorted out. Problem was that the Ignition coil on the drivers side was fried. Replaced it last night, car runs better than the day the in-laws loaned it to me - apparently it had been failing for a very long time. Car has power again, suddering in overdrive is eliminated, gas smell is gone, and driving to work today barely caused the gas needle to move. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mecury Posted May 11, 2013 Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 I think o2 sensors die and usually dont change enough to allow the car to run ruff. go to auto zone and see if they will give you a free code check. 94 might be obd11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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