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No aftermarket, but does anyone have any ideas for 3.5 tunin


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Posted

could add a cold air intake

umm better spark plugs and wires

maybe a dual exhaust

performance cat.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I had to make my own intake set-up for my 3.5. I just used a 3" rubber 90 degree tubing I founf at Lowe's. I cut it to about 45 degrees though, to set it right in front of the left headlight. I used this to make a functional ram air system for the strip. I used 4" dryer ducting and ran it through the opening behind the headlight. The PCM mounted in the stock location, but bolted to the sheetmetal by 5/16" stainless bolts and insulated for protection. I may have some pics soon. I wanted to try it out yesterday at the strip, but they cancelled and it was the last test & tune of the year, so I'll have to wait til spring for results.

 

I also have an intake air temp module from SLP. It has proven to make the car much more consistent.

 

I wrapped the exhaust crossover with thermal wrap from Summit racing, to keep the heat down since it travels right under the throttle body/intake tube.

 

I descreened the MAF for a little more free flowing airflow. My next project for the MAF is this:

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/1320/mafmod.html

I'll get the MAF ends from a scrap yard or the dealer if I have to. I'm keeping the factory ones for when I sell the car in may.

 

Over Christmas I'm installing a shift kit for the 4T65E, which should help my times a little.

 

I'm also hoping for the money to get some cheap, lightweight wheels and a set of slicks, because my tires have proven to be my limiting factor.

 

My best ET/MPH so far was a 15.285 @ 89.91, which was before the ram air set-up. My tires aren't hooking for crap. I've done plenty of calculating, and with a set of slicks I should be running consistent 14.5-14.6s. The car was weighed at 3250 lbs without me (about 175), but it still had about 1/4 tank and the spare tire/holder (40 LBS!!!!) in it.

 

I was making about 235HP at the crank as of my last run (about 195 at the wheels). I don't think that's too bad considering I've put under $100 into my little shortstar.

 

BTW - I think the 0-60 time is waaaay off from Motor Trend etc. They are saying 8 seconds, and even when my car was stock, I could ALWAYS destroy my friends 3.8 off the line and had him over a car length at 60 MPH.

Posted

BTW - if you're interested, Fast Chip ( http://www.fastchip.com ) will make a custom chip for any car for $350. I'm not to that point yet, and I don't have $350 to spend on it, but I'm still considering it for the future if I keep the car for a while longer.

Posted

thanks for the info, would appriciate any more input, and ill let you know how things are going when i start my mods in december, i think im gonna start with an exhast though

Posted

how did the descreening of the MAF go? how did it affect the idling? thats my main question when it comes to me doing that or not, i dont want a terrible idle.

Posted

As far as exhaust goes, I think your best bet would be the SLP cat back:

http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?PARTNUMBER=31026&SHOWIMAGE=On&SHOWEMAIL=Off

 

The kit costs 349.95 right now, so if you're interested you should probably take advantage of the opportunity. I don't have the exhaust, so I can't really tell you anything about it other than what the SLP sites offers. It's menat for cars with the 3800, but I don't think theres any difference in the cat-back. I don't know why there would be.

 

Descreening the MAF was extremely easy. All you do is take a flat tipped punch, and punch around the outer edge of the screen. Punch it from the inside out, because it's pressed in there. You can't runch it from the outside in because of the ridge on the inside. DO NOT do this while the MAF is assembled. Take the extra 2 minutes to disassemble the MAF and remove the ends so you don't damage the meter itself.

 

Without the screen, the car idles just like it did before. It has a bit more top end due to less restriction in the line of flow. You wont feel a huge difference in the power; a time slip is the best indication of a gain.

 

If you're looking for cheap easy mods for the 3.5 to start with, I suggest a custom made intake set up like I did. You can also have your local exhaust shop bend a piece of scrap tubing to fit your car. A friend of mine had that done for free, and I'm probably going to end up doing the same.

 

Thermal wrapping the exhaust will offer cooler intake air, which improves power and it will also make the car more consistent.

 

As we already discussed, descreening the MAF is also a good way to improve airflow. I'll let you know about porting the ends in a few months, because I haven't tried that yet.

 

These are just some cheap, easy mods to start with.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

what options do you want I know a few places you might find solutions for bigger hp out of that engine.

 

Ill dig and post the options

 

Ty

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

uhh i mihgt be a dumbass for asking but what does the 3.5 come in? As in car? I have been afraid to ask, but might as well.

 

-JAY-

Posted
i knew that, but this is a Gm forum.... So can anyone tell us?

 

 

-JAY-

 

 

 

2000+ Old Intrigue, and in later model Olds Aurora's, with the V-8 being an option.

 

 

Aaron

Posted

I would look at the same basic things the 3.4L DOHC guys do.

 

* Intake

* Exhaust

* UD Pulley (contact michael at Fastfwdperformance.com)

* Ported Throttle body

* Ported upper/lower intake manfiolds

* Ported & Pollished heads

* Suspention (if you can't beat them in the straights get them in the corners)

* Nitrous

 

BTW, do you have any pics of your engine bay?

 

RedZ

Posted

oh yeah, the 3.5 and the 4.0 were the engines GM decided to drop between the strut towers on those cars. I feel dumb, i remembered that too dammit. BUt thanks anyway

 

 

-JAY-

  • 1 month later...

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