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Studder off line 3100 1995 GP SE


Silentkillzr

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Ive noticed sometimes when cold, or almost random spots around town that when i leave from a light or etc. that it studders for a second or so and then goes, it just has that delay. Been this way for a while, not all the time just occasionally. Any advise would be useful. I do have a aldl cable for my laptop.

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record datalog of it happening, preferably even multiple times in the log, post it somewhere and i'll take a look at it. just be sure to have some idea of when it happens in case there are events in the log where it doesn't.

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Alright i got two logs made up, went to the gas station and back, a few miles. Anyway it seems to happen more when its cold.

 

Here's both files:

http://specbar.net/wbody/triphomefromstation4142013.xdl

http://specbar.net/wbody/triptogasstation4142013.xdl

 

Im using the same adx files you gave me when i got the cable.

 

Let me know what you think, seems i have a IC 24x Signal code but never have a SES light?

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your TPS is acting somewhat oddly.... when you clearly have the throttle closed, resting voltage doesn't seem very consistent, it's why you're getting an elevated idle at times and why TPS% doesn't always fall to 0 or 0.39% when no throttle is applied.

 

you may have a small vacuum leak as well.... with a 3x00, only 12 IAC steps with an idle speed in the 750 to 800 range is somewhat low. either that or the TB setscrew has been messed with. MAP at that idle is also a little "telling" of it.

 

24X DTC is present, as such, idle stability is affected a bit.

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Well it got a new tps before I owned it. I still have the old one to try also. Don't you have to calibrate it?

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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calibration, no, on some older stuff(like 85-89 TPI V8 and early MPFI 60V6(fieros, etc)), it used to be necessary, but these PCMs allow learning of the minimum TPS voltage point, to an extent. go too far out of range and really odd things will happen. ideal is .5 volts with a fully closed throttle, but up to ~.7 or so(and down to ~.3 or so) will still be allowed to learn and not have issues.

 

i replaced the TPS on the MC somewhat recently, base sensor voltage was always a good and consistent ~.51 volts, but lately when it got warm, sometimes when closing the throttle, voltage would dip noticably below that, so the PCM "learned" the new lowest voltage as 0% and when the throttle was actually closed, the PCM was calculating more like 3%. caused a REALLY high idle and some serious unintentional coasting issues. replaced TPS with a used one from an 03 impala(cause i'm a cheap-ass), base voltage is now around .6, so i reset the TPS learns(just disconnect the PCM fuse(s) for a minute or so) and now it's perfectly normal again.

 

TPS is a VERY important input to the 93-95 3100 programs.

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I'll try returning to the old one and relearning. He only replaced it in the hunt to make it run. But it was the pcm in the end lol.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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Also another weird thing is I have no cat or rear o2 hooked up. PO hacked it off and made custom piping. I only have the o2 on the dp. But it seems to read rear o2?

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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you don't have a rear O2.... or at least, you don't have a post-cat O2.

 

the reason those show up is because of the 3.4 F-bodies. those used more or less an identical PCM(the manual trans models use the exact same PCM, automatic have provisions for the 4L60E) and those had an O2 sensor for each bank(left and right).

 

for a FWD application, you only have the "rear" sensor, since the one sensor monitors both banks. you COULD hook up another sensor if you wanted to and have the PCM respond to it with a slight calibration tweak..... all something optional though.

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That makes sense. Pretty sure I do have a slight vac leak. When I got the car heater vents didn't work. They cut the vac lines when they changed the trans. I got it all hooked up but I don't have the right fitting for the intake plugin so I made my own. I'll revise that and mess with the tps and see what happens.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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Want my adx? I spent a while and made a pretty dash lol.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

 

yeah, I would like to check that shit out!

 

I had a strange issue one time...but I have a 3400 swap of course, that wasn't my doing. but the throttle cable was loose when I hooked back up the TB after removing and cleaning one day. I had it installed correctly but it was loose now! turns out that a bunch of time got wasted tuning and tweaking stuff because didn't realize the cable tension was set when the TB end was installed INCORRECTLY. so I just went back to how he had it, left it installed incorrectly and went back to normal life, because the incorrect way was with the end nub turned 90 degrees in the seating on the tb pivot linkage. then that made the cable tight again which solved my problem.

 

I know, ghetto because I didn't go back behind the pedal and adjust it or whatever, but its something to look out for anyway. see if the linkage works as should. mine took a minute to figure out because I had to try and picture how it was before, then remembered luckily. its a long story I know, just thought I would share.

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so I looked at the logs.

 

bro you need the throttle follower tuned bad. I can see the voltage dips and read how your trip there and the trip home like a book. I saw the fan kick on and your alt not deliver the voltage you need.

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I found two vac leaks. The brake booster fitting was loose and I fixed the vac leak that powers the vents and such. I reset the ecm left the tps for now. I'll see if it keeps up on the voltage. Started up very well and catches idle finally lol. Haven't drove it yet I'll report in tomorrow.

 

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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fixing the vacuum leaks is good and everything. It will help the MAP, especially if you were turbo.

 

it will actually make your problem worse, until you tune it. when the idle dropped to 500 rpm as you took off, while the throttle plate opened up, that is the crappiest feeling.

 

the car should start to pull forward slightly as you take your foot off the brake. you need like twice as many IAC steps.

 

 

mind if I check out the BIN? I was just curious, wanted to see one for a 95

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http://60degreev6.com/forum/showthread.php/48589-Tuning-available-for-93-95-L32-and-L82-PCMs?p=460539&viewfull=1#post460539

 

there's the XDF.... very unorganized, but i really don't have time to fix it, nor do i care to since i very rarely get to play with the MC anymore.

 

i don't see BINs.... i'll probably upload them to that thread later.

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I would like to make available a drivability BIN for those cars with simply a throttle follower sweep that is more street friendly for people. I can't remember what is the process to making that year W-body able to be tuned?

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with a 93-95 60V6 SFI PCM, the only hardware needed is an ALDL cable. after that you need the software to upload and download the BIN to the PCM, that's done with the madtuner software. then tunerpro to edit the BINs.

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