ringting Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 (edited) Good Day, My questions are: 1) Does anyone know the wrench size and easiest way to reach the engine block coolant drain plugs on a 3.8 litre engine block? 2) Any wisdom to share about coolant through intake manifold area? I own / have read the Buick manual so understand there are two bolts, one on each side, just under cylinders 3 and 4. While there are others on the end faces which must be drilled – trapped – pulled I shall not be dealing with them. Tonight I have removed the rad and now assessing situation. I am cleaning everything, neat freak as I believe in good housekeeping. This weekend thevehicle is also going to have front brake and oil change done. Might drop oil pan and replace gasket. Sharing this incase it impacts your advice. Also have been dealing with a FUN and EXCITING Turn Signal issue. Again if I should be taking pictures or checking things out in preparation, please let me know. Big Thank You to past advisors who told me I had a bad coil. Vehicle sat for six months until one day I realized by pulling the front plugs they would point to part needing replacement. Wow it was that easy. Take care, Ringting Edited March 23, 2013 by ringting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ringting Posted March 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Found front plug, if you go straight in just below exhaust manifold with 7/16 socket + extension you can hit it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS009 Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 Never actually pulled the drain plugs from the block before. I usually just drain the radiator and then pull of the manifold with minimal spilling. The LIM will still retain some coolant though. From what I can tell it seems like coolant will leak through the LIM gasket and make its way into the pcv port of the gasket. It then travels up to pcv valve and into the upper intake manifold where it is sucked into the combustion chambers. It's a pretty straight-forward job and it's pretty easy on these cars. The only thing to look out for is to make sure you replace the gasket under the throttle body for the coolant bypass area of the lower intake manifold. These things tend to leak eventually and you might as well replace it while you have it apart. Most auto stores don't stock the gasket so you'll have to order it off rockauto or something. You can get away with using thermostat housing sealant though too if need be. Another thing to look out for are gouges in the LIM itself around the coolant ports. It's a pretty common thing to see at least from the few I've pulled off. Just make sure there aren't too many and you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BS009 Posted March 23, 2013 Report Share Posted March 23, 2013 I would double check that you can actually remove the pan before you get the new pan gasket. IIRC the engine mount will have to be removed in order to reach the bolts on the passenger side. Oil change is also a very good idea too when you change the LIM gaskets. This way if any coolant finds its way into the oil when you pull everything off, it's drained out right away. Turn signal issues are a pretty common problem on w-body's. If you're lucky you might be able to get away with just cleaning the contacts on the switch. When I replaced mine though I broke one of the tabs and ended up replacing the switch. Sounds like you've got a busy weekend planned!. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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