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Broken Bolts in Strut Mounts


Spidey

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I am in the process of replacing the rear struts on my 1996 Grand Prix SE. While removing the strut mounts, one of the bolt heads broke off. I don't know if it's possible to get out. Even with the head, I couldn't budge it. Now I've just got the little 1 1/2 inch bolt end in the truck to work with. This ever happen to anybody before?

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I got the one I broke off out by letting it soak in some Blaster overnight and then heating it up from the trunk side with a little torch. It had turned out a little before it broke off, so I was able to get a small set of vice grips onto it.

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I turned it about 90 degrees before it broke. I wasn't sure if I actually turned it, or if the metal was twisting. Does Blaster work better than WD-40 or Liquid Wrench?

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I would suggest that you go out an get a mapp gas torch set, the investment will pay off if you need a respectable small heating torch set in the future. They will get hotter than your average propane torch, the torch flame is finer and more direct than a propane torch, you can heat up the captive nut on the topside to free up the remaining broken bolt to turn it out with a vise grip.

 

here's an example, they can be had for less than this listed price....

 

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/BERNZOMATIC-CuttingWeldingBrazing-Kit-4LFJ4?Pid=search

Edited by 55trucker
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That looks pretty good. Would it help me a lot with this project over my Bernzomatic UL100? I've got the bolts soaking in PB Blaster right now. I plan on taking another crack at them tomorrow.

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Would it help me a lot with this project over my Bernzomatic UL100?

 

Definitely, the added oxygen is what drives the heat up (think oxy/acetylene), these get up to near 5000F, wheres the standalone propane cylinder sees approx half that temp.

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How difficult was it to turn with the vice-grip after the PB Blaster and torch?:showoff:

 

 

It wasn't too bad. When the bolt starts to get harder while loosening it, turn it back in a half turn or so, keep doing this as you go so you don't strip off more metal from your vice grips slipping off the stud. I used MAPP gas with a regular torch head on it. Make sure that you pull out your carpet first, last thing you need is to set it on fire. You may have to keep giving it some heat every so often to keep the bolt moving. If that doesn't work, you can try an easy-out if you have a right angle drill that will fit in there.

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tip: front strut nuts are the same thread size as the bolt. Take a spare front strut nut and tighten it onto the shaft of the broken bolt on the inside of the trunk. This should help shift it and may break it loose. if you can lock a second nut on top, which you might if you have the shallower style nut, you might be able to lock them tight to each other and simply unscrew the shaft up into the trunk. and a torch can be of good help, too.

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There's a lot of good stuff here. I soaked it in PB overnight and heated the metal with my little torch. I couldn't budge it with my vice-grip. I tried soaking and heating and hitting some more. I gave that up and drilled the bolt out in 10 minutes and replaced it with a bigger bolt and nut with a washer. I got a nice Irwin drill bit for $10. The other side broke, too. I was as patient and careful as I could be with no luck; those bolts became part of the car somehow. I drilled that bolt out too and it worked out well.

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I try to pre-soak several times for a week in advance of doing struts, and chase the holes with a proper metric tap when done. glad you're getting them out. When the new ones go in, use some thread lock, it should cut down on future corrosion.

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happened to me too, what a bitch. i did the reverse; heated up the surrounding area inside the wheel well and removed the bolt slowly from inside the trunk without damaging any threads

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